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Offshore cast turbo manifold LS build

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From: Trumbull CT
Car: 87 TA clone
Engine: 70/70 Turbo 5.3 LS
Transmission: bullet proof 2004R
Axle/Gears: ford 8.8, 3.55 gears
Re: Offshore cast turbo manifold LS build

Originally Posted by anesthes
Can you install android apps on it though? The reason I was thinking of swapping the radio in my Firebird to an android double din was so I can run a few gauges (either with Shadowdash or one of the android MS apps) over USB. I'd like to have trans temp, AFR, and some status bits on a second screen.

That Boss setup looks neat though. I might use that to replace the cheap android head unit in my Silverado and see if I like it. That truck is a reg cab and has four Boss speakers. (300w)

I'm still trying to figure out the Bose system on my 2500HD. I think I have 1 blown speaker in the door. I know the amp is under the center console. I'd like to put a sub under the rear seat. Not sure if I want to use the bose stuff or swap all the speakers + amp. But that's a project for another day.

I need to get motivated on the rollbar this week on the firebird. I also need to road test it to see if the transmission I built actually works lol. It moves forward and back in the shop though. I bought a digital transmission pressure gauge (handheld). I want to verify the pressure at idle, in drive, and play with the EPC duty cycle to make sure it responds reasonably and at various RPM. 60's are very sensitive to over or under pressure.

I also need to dial in my shift points. I have my WOT shift points set but I mean my part throttle shift points. "load" is TPS %.

Negative, BOSS operating system. It has the ability to change background images I think and music from USB. I've never seen anyone hack these to run a custom OS. I know there are android versions like this available so you would be able to run android apps to do what you want. Now that I think about it... I have the "torque" app on my phone... maybe I can see if that will work while in car play.

Yes, the 2011 has a single sub in the center console in front of the cupholders and it's a weird size like 6-6.5". The amp is below the storage bin but you can gain access to some of the wiring (sub connector) by removing the cup holders bin. They sell harnesses to add an external amp which would be in addition to the BOSE system (taps into the signal wires). The issue with the BOSE system that that the chimes and stuff are built into the amp so if you delete it you loose that stuff. The aftermarket PAC module and android harnesses come with a mini chime speaker. I would think that the aftermarket harness will allow you to just run new wires to the aftermarket amp but you would need speaker wire connections or convert the harness to RCAs to plug into an aftermarket amp. My understanding is there is a big cluster or wires going into the amp (low level from radio) and then wires coming out of the amp the speakers (high level) but the BOSE has internal crossovers so it splits the radios front speakers full range and pushes it into to high range (dash and pillar tweeters) and doors get mids/lows. I personally wish the BOSE was easier to bypass and even finding the connectors is hard.

Have you gone through all the gears with it in the air? At least you can make sure it shifts through and you get some pressures. It's about to be driving time for you... better hurry up!

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