bottle pressure
03-19-2002, 10:13 PM
#1
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bottle pressure
How much does this effect the power? My bottle is full and at the temp that it is outside (55 degrees) it only has 700 psi. Does this just effect the initial hit?
03-19-2002, 10:34 PM
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With a bottle pressure of 700 psi you are dropping the flow rate considerably (20%) from the 900 or so psi you should run at. Also at a fuel pressure of 6psi (for a carb) this is equivalent to running 3 jet sizes too rich. It will affect the power delivery substantially.
03-19-2002, 10:38 PM
#3
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Thanks. I wasn't aware about the running rich. I guess I should get a bottle heater. Next on my list.
03-21-2002, 09:15 PM
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$45.00 bottle heater!!!
1. Get one of those $35.00 power inverters. I direct wired mine and attached it to the side of the consol. Now you have a household outlet in your thirdgen.
2. Buy a $10.00 heatpad at wal-greens.
3. Wrap that baby around your bottle, crank it up to hi, and plug it in!
tip: Plug it in inside your house for about 2hours before you head out for some "street fun" and you'll be right at about 900psi.
1. Get one of those $35.00 power inverters. I direct wired mine and attached it to the side of the consol. Now you have a household outlet in your thirdgen.
2. Buy a $10.00 heatpad at wal-greens.
3. Wrap that baby around your bottle, crank it up to hi, and plug it in!
tip: Plug it in inside your house for about 2hours before you head out for some "street fun" and you'll be right at about 900psi.
03-21-2002, 09:15 PM
#6
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What brand should I get? NOS? How much is the one that goes off bottle pressure instead of temp. Also, what brand is that one?
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03-21-2002, 09:36 PM
#8
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Hey StockBastard, Is this what you use? I don't really like the idea of have a power inverter in my car. I wouldn't mind hooking the pad up in the garage before I go out, though.
03-22-2002, 04:02 AM
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Car: '91 Camaro RS
I have a new NOS bottle heater. Only open it to take out instructions and relay. Will sell it to you for $50.00+shipping. Not using it because I'm building a drag car and I am getting a "HOT BOX" to heat 2 bottles at a time. Email me and let me know.
bjm323@yahoo.com
bjm323@yahoo.com
03-22-2002, 09:39 AM
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Originally posted by Cosmik Debris
With a bottle pressure of 700 psi you are dropping the flow rate considerably (20%) from the 900 or so psi you should run at. Also at a fuel pressure of 6psi (for a carb) this is equivalent to running 3 jet sizes too rich. It will affect the power delivery substantially.
With a bottle pressure of 700 psi you are dropping the flow rate considerably (20%) from the 900 or so psi you should run at. Also at a fuel pressure of 6psi (for a carb) this is equivalent to running 3 jet sizes too rich. It will affect the power delivery substantially.
New Flow Rate / Old Flow Rate = (New Pressure / Old Pressure)^0.5
New Flow Rate / Old Flow Rate = (700 / 900)^0.5
New Flow Rate / Old Flow Rate = 0.88 or 88%
So even though we lose 22% of the pressure with an unheated bottle, 12% of the flow potential is lost with an unheated bottle.
The critical point for N2O is 98°F. If N2O gets above that, the liquid N2O turns into a gas.
03-22-2002, 12:59 PM
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Car: 98 Camaro SS
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make shift bottle heaters work if you are on a budget and NOT A COMPLETE F'ING MORON.
just make sure you ONLY run it when you need to be, and your eye NEVER comes off that pressure gauge... if you absolutely HAVE to have your 1050 psi (which is where n2o is supposed to be at, not 900psi.) for a track run, or something similiar.. you can use the heating pad method.. unless you want you or your car to die, do NOT run this setup on the street, or leave it on unattended.
just make sure you ONLY run it when you need to be, and your eye NEVER comes off that pressure gauge... if you absolutely HAVE to have your 1050 psi (which is where n2o is supposed to be at, not 900psi.) for a track run, or something similiar.. you can use the heating pad method.. unless you want you or your car to die, do NOT run this setup on the street, or leave it on unattended.
03-22-2002, 07:10 PM
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Holy crap 
im really concidering not using nitrous now. even though i dont have a bottle heater the pressure wont be to high but still just imagine sittin at the track and just chillen and then BOOMM and u and ur car blow up. damn. i think i might go with all the safety stuff i can get.
im really concidering not using nitrous now. even though i dont have a bottle heater the pressure wont be to high but still just imagine sittin at the track and just chillen and then BOOMM and u and ur car blow up. damn. i think i might go with all the safety stuff i can get.
03-22-2002, 07:29 PM
#15
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Originally posted by 1982chevycamaroz28
Holy crap im really concidering not using nitrous now. even though i dont have a bottle heater the pressure wont be to high but still just imagine sittin at the track and just chillen and then BOOMM and u and ur car blow up. damn. i think i might go with all the safety stuff i can get.
Holy crap
im really concidering not using nitrous now. even though i dont have a bottle heater the pressure wont be to high but still just imagine sittin at the track and just chillen and then BOOMM and u and ur car blow up. damn. i think i might go with all the safety stuff i can get.
03-22-2002, 07:45 PM
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yea it might be a 1 in a million things but i think ill try and get all the little safety gadgets out there that i would be able to get. and i think ill have more respect for a gas that could kill ya like that, luckly there was no one in that car at the time.
03-22-2002, 08:30 PM
#17
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I do agree with all the safety stuff. In fact, I have the blow down tube vented outside the car and I have the fuel pressure safety switch.
03-22-2002, 08:43 PM
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
its cold here, we sell bottle heaters, but I just dont feel like putting one in, I like heating the bottle in the bath tub or infront of the gas powered fireplace (not to close though) and then keeping under my heater on the floor until race time. I cant "blip" my nitrous all night down town looking for a race but then again only jack A$$e$ and ricers do that.
03-23-2002, 10:18 PM
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Yes, I really do use an inverter and a heat pad. I have the fuel pressure gauge mounted on my dash, so at the first sign of to much pressure I can reach down and turn off my inverter. I never leave my bottle in the car, so I don't plan on blowing my third gen to peices like that moron in the pictures above. If I remember the story right he had removed the pressure valve.
The heat pad works ok, but doesn't get hot enough to maintain 900-1050 psi. After one or two hits it cools off real fast.
It's a temporary fix till summer.
The heat pad works ok, but doesn't get hot enough to maintain 900-1050 psi. After one or two hits it cools off real fast.
It's a temporary fix till summer.
03-24-2002, 11:42 AM
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Originally posted by StockBastard
Yes, I really do use an inverter and a heat pad. I have the fuel pressure gauge mounted on my dash, so at the first sign of to much pressure I can reach down and turn off my inverter. I never leave my bottle in the car, so I don't plan on blowing my third gen to peices like that moron in the pictures above. If I remember the story right he had removed the pressure valve.
The heat pad works ok, but doesn't get hot enough to maintain 900-1050 psi. After one or two hits it cools off real fast.
It's a temporary fix till summer.
Yes, I really do use an inverter and a heat pad. I have the fuel pressure gauge mounted on my dash, so at the first sign of to much pressure I can reach down and turn off my inverter. I never leave my bottle in the car, so I don't plan on blowing my third gen to peices like that moron in the pictures above. If I remember the story right he had removed the pressure valve.
The heat pad works ok, but doesn't get hot enough to maintain 900-1050 psi. After one or two hits it cools off real fast.
It's a temporary fix till summer.
With the blown up car, the blow-off failed. The temperature controller worked off of line pressure. With the bottle closed, the sensor would only measure line pressure, not bottle pressure. That was part of the design problem.
Also the bottle heater was connected to battery power. It should of been connected to ignition power.
With such a potential source of danger, at least two safety devices should be utilized.
StockBastard, why do you pull out the bottle everytime from the car? A bottle won't blow up by itself.
Last edited by a73camaro; 03-24-2002 at 11:57 AM.
03-24-2002, 03:35 PM
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Originally posted by a73camaro
New Flow Rate = Old Flow Rate * (New Pressure / Old Pressure)^0.5
New Flow Rate / Old Flow Rate = (New Pressure / Old Pressure)^0.5
New Flow Rate / Old Flow Rate = (700 / 900)^0.5
New Flow Rate / Old Flow Rate = 0.88 or 88%
So even though we lose 22% of the pressure with an unheated bottle, 12% of the flow potential is lost with an unheated bottle.
The critical point for N2O is 98°F. If N2O gets above that, the liquid N2O turns into a gas.
New Flow Rate = Old Flow Rate * (New Pressure / Old Pressure)^0.5
New Flow Rate / Old Flow Rate = (New Pressure / Old Pressure)^0.5
New Flow Rate / Old Flow Rate = (700 / 900)^0.5
New Flow Rate / Old Flow Rate = 0.88 or 88%
So even though we lose 22% of the pressure with an unheated bottle, 12% of the flow potential is lost with an unheated bottle.
The critical point for N2O is 98°F. If N2O gets above that, the liquid N2O turns into a gas.
03-24-2002, 05:39 PM
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Car: 88 GTA + Dakota on N20
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Yea i remember reading about that explosion before. I guess he found a way to cap off the pressure release and then let his bottle get way to hot. What a moron, and people wonder why nitrous has such a bad name. I do wonder though how high the pressure got before it blew. HEY how come the fast and furious car didnt do that when its bottle blew up. LOL
03-24-2002, 06:00 PM
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Here is the owners explaintion
http://www.nettally.com/silly34/nitro.htm
I doubt that he capped off his NOS blow-off. There was NO reason to do that.
http://www.nettally.com/silly34/nitro.htm
I doubt that he capped off his NOS blow-off. There was NO reason to do that.
03-24-2002, 08:34 PM
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He already admitted doubling up on the safety disc. He admitted powering up the heater to a constant 12V source instead of a switch 12V source. He admitted removing the thermostat on the heater so it would keep heating.
He then retracted those statements when the though of suing Nitrous Express entered his little brain.
Nitrous didnt cause that explosion.
His stupidity did.
He then retracted those statements when the though of suing Nitrous Express entered his little brain.
Nitrous didnt cause that explosion.
His stupidity did.
03-25-2002, 12:46 AM
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Car: 88 GTA + Dakota on N20
Engine: 383 4 bolt
Transmission: 700r4
Yea it seem like the first time i read it it said something like he capped it or to that effect. But i do remember for sure that he had modified it some how. Wow those blow off valves go all the way up to 3000 that seems a bit excessive. What if you activated the system at 2000 psi? lol Boom pieces of motor everywhere
03-25-2002, 12:51 AM
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Car: 88 GTA + Dakota on N20
Engine: 383 4 bolt
Transmission: 700r4
But I have to admit if I was that stupid i would probobly sue somebody else just to make myself feel better. heh
03-25-2002, 09:13 AM
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Originally posted by Omar
He already admitted doubling up on the safety disc. He admitted powering up the heater to a constant 12V source instead of a switch 12V source. He admitted removing the thermostat on the heater so it would keep heating.
He then retracted those statements when the though of suing Nitrous Express entered his little brain.
Nitrous didnt cause that explosion.
His stupidity did.
He already admitted doubling up on the safety disc. He admitted powering up the heater to a constant 12V source instead of a switch 12V source. He admitted removing the thermostat on the heater so it would keep heating.
He then retracted those statements when the though of suing Nitrous Express entered his little brain.
Nitrous didnt cause that explosion.
His stupidity did.
I guess State Farm desided that they won't pay his claim. Due to lack of gray matter.
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