I'm looking at possibly buying an IROC-Z for my dad. It's a nice, rust free roller, but it has manual locks and windows. I know we had a car like this a few years ago and it was such a pain to have to lean over the console and roll down the passenger side window, but at the same time, this would be a Christmas present to my dad which he would be fixing up over the next few years and wouldn't be driven a lot, so I'm not sure it would matter that much to him. But just for grins, how hard is it to upgrade to power locks and windows? Obviously I would need the right door panels and the motor assembly for the windows, but what about the wiring? Has anyone here ever done this before?

 

If the car needs paint, find some doors for sale with the options that you would like to have and replace the doors. This is the easyest way and with any luck you may find some with good outer window seals.

 

You'd still need to do a little wiring to get them to work though. How hard would it be to wire up a non-power window/lock car?

 

The harness is easy to remove from a junk car. When the door is bolted up it is grounded. You will only need to supply 12V to the harness. Your fuse box should have an open accessory port available for the 12V. Cut the holes and install the switches. It is easy task to complete.

 

Good to know, thanks for the help.

Here is the car I'm thinking about buying my dad as a Christmas present, because he's helped me so much with my car getting it to where it is now.


I think I can pick this car up for around $500-$600 but it doesn't come with the Pro Stars.

 

looks like a deal to me id love it if my kid someday (if i have one) would do that for me. i say do it if thats the only prblem then your in good shape for a nice car

 

I think 82CAM has a good point, I would just swap over 2 doors from a power window-locks car. It would probably be the easiest since I know a few things are just riveted on. The wiring shouldn't be too bad. You can get the power door lock relays on the driver's side kickpanel and for the windows, you need 4 wires. 2 wires (pos and neg) going to the switch and then 2 wires going to the window motor from the switch (the switch alternates the polarities so the window can go up or down...)

 

I talked to my dad about the car last night and he says that power windows and locks aren't really important to him anyways. When he was growing up and had a bunch of Camaros and Trans Ams, none of them had power locks and windows...so I'm going to go look at the car this afternoon and hopefully buy it next week as soon as I can get access to a trailer.

 

I'm kind of late to this thread but have some info anyways. There's a harness conduit that runs along the front just under the dash pad. I actually used the original conduit along the front but it kept the wiring organized while I did the swap. It's not difficult to remove if you bring a door puller tool to the junk yard. Take everything including the power block all the way to the connectors in the doors, and middle console. Even the rubber conduits in between the doors. It should only take a half hour or so to pull the wiring from the donor car. The wiring in mine is installed, I've been too lazy to swap the motors out on mine though.
Do the wiring first so you're not stuck with inoperable windows. (The pics are from something else but show what's needed.)

 

Hey thanks, that helps a lot!

 

Glad to help out wherever I can. I've learned a lot from your threads as well.

 

Installing the whole set-up is a pretty easy project. I've done it countless times and it's one of the best upgrades an interior could ever get ! I would not suggest swapping your doors unless you plan to deal with seal and aglinment issues later. You need to remove everything bolted on/in the door and can leave the glass inside. When you start removing the old stuff - have the window rolled down, and make sure the electric regulators are moved all the way DOWN before installing them. ( install wiring first - then plug in motors and be sure they work before attempting to install! )

Another piece of advise for installing the Lock Soleniods and the Regulators,...... Use very short 10mm nuts/bolts and a large thin washer on each side ( if you have a little patience !) I've found the best ones to use are the exact same 10 mm nuts/bolts used to hold all of the doors other internal parts together, so you can take a couple of them to the hardware store to find more or just save the nuts/bolts from the donor doors. Install as many nuts/bolts as possible with the window DOWN, then roll the window UP and try to install the remaining nuts/bolts.

In order for the wiring harness to be "Plug & Play" for your car the donor wiring harness will need to be from an 88(?)-92. The 82-87(?) wiring harness is not the same so you would need to cut/splice to get it working. (Easy enough but not plug/play ! ) You can use electric motors, regulators, Lock Solenoids and Power Lock rods from any thirdgen Camaro or Firebird. ( Be sure to get all the power door lock rods/harware from the donor doors ! One little bracket is held to the door by a single tiny rivet ! )

I JUST installed power windows into my 91 RS about a month ago. It's a GREAT upgrade,...... and that IROC looks "worthy" !!

 

id say keep the manual doors, and windows that way you dont have to deal with replacing power window motors, and you'll save some weight

 

A lockable window, and a manual control for a lockable window. The window includes a window sash having a first locking member and a window frame having a second locking member mounted thereon for movement between a locked position cooperating with the first locking member for locking the sash to the frame when closed against the frame and an unlocked position clear of the first locking member to allow movement of the sash relative to the frame.
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Hey buddy, found a REALLY good article on the power windows

http://www.p71interceptor.com/thirdgen/powerwindows/