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Pulled off the throttle body today to start tearing it down and clean it. Noticed there are 3 broken screws, and I am sure the others wont come out without a fight. What size screws would replacements be?
heating them up with a propaine torch and soaking down with pb blaster will elp loosen the snapped off ones. hopefully you have enough to grip with vice grips. IRC the are metric fine thread 4mm cant recall the length measure from under the head to the tip of the screw.
I have repaired 6 of these lately. heres how I did it, first heat it with a torch or heat gun.spray it liberally with "PB blaster". let it soak for a few hours. then you heat it again and CAREFULLY work out the remaining screws. the trick is, aluminum expands at a different rate than the steel screws. so they let go rather easily. sometimes , if your lucky. there enough of the screw left sticking up to get a vice grip on it . if not you can weld a nut to the broken screw, and get it that way (damn tedious. though) once you have them all out ,you will notice some are a bit longer than the others. you can get replacements at any well equipped fastener store. I recommend allen head replacements. I hope this helps .and good luck, youre gonna need it.
Thanks for the tips. I will give it a go this weekend. To bad the billet housings with the water jacket delete is so expensive.
unless you live in a hot dry climate, the heated TB is nice to have, it keeps the TB from icing up. and at first, the TB rebuild is daunting. but once you get into it its really simple
unless you live in a hot dry climate, the heated TB is nice to have, it keeps the TB from icing up. and at first, the TB rebuild is daunting. but once you get into it its really simple
Arizona is the text book definition of hot and dry
Arizona is the text book definition of hot and dry
agreed ! I live in the smoky mountains. here its cold and damp. a heated TB is nice to have in this climate. I have friends that have done the TB mod on their cars with not so pretty results , some mornings
Update: put the IAC housing on with new bolts. Made sure the broken bolt hole had a washer on top and was really tight. Drove it around, runs like a champ.
I don't intend to leave it like that, but at least I will still have use of the car until I can find a replacement.
i have and iac housing also have the bolts brand new stainless steel
Not intending to threadjack, but I've just pulled my throttle body apart for new gaskets/cleaning. The bolts that hold the IAC housing on are severely corroded, and I'd prefer not to reuse them.
Where did you get stainless bolts, and what size are those bolts?
sure i can spare a set just to be clear these are oem not stainless steel
Gotcha...as long as they're in good condition, I'd be far better off. Some of these I have, I'm surprised I was successful in removing from the throttle body without them snapping off, and am concerned a couple of them could break when reinstalling them.
You can get stainless metric socket head cap screws or other head at McMaster Carr. www.mcmaster.com. Here in eastern, Pa if I order by noon, I get them by 5PM but that is at work. They have all sorts of stuff from sheet materials, insulation to screws nuts bolts etc. However, they do charge a bit more because they stock most.
You can get stainless metric socket head cap screws or other head at McMaster Carr. www.mcmaster.com. Here in eastern, Pa if I order by noon, I get them by 5PM but that is at work. They have all sorts of stuff from sheet materials, insulation to screws nuts bolts etc. However, they do charge a bit more because they stock most.
That's great information. What size are these bolts? I've not yet found that information anywhere.
Well, had to go to south Georgia for some work, stopped in a place in Atlanta---and now I have 100 stainless steel bolts for the IAC. I only needed 7....the only difference other than material is they are allen head, rather than Torx.
Well, had to go to south Georgia for some work, stopped in a place in Atlanta---and now I have 100 stainless steel bolts for the IAC. I only needed 7....the only difference other than material is they are allen head, rather than Torx.
Hey Galaxie.. I know this is old but do you still have any of these. I need 7....and what size are they!
Thanks\Bob
New stainless screws and washers....Intake, Plenum, and Runners acid dipped. Moving on with the rebuild. Thanks for everyone's help on the screw thing!!
I just googled “how to acid dip” to read up on the process and see if it was literally dipping in acid. I was not sure of what type of acid to use, where to purchase or how to keep from burning off my flesh. Well... Google thought I wanted to know how to dip acid, as in LSD. So Bob, can I trouble you for a quick overview of your materials and the process you used?
Actually Ty, I used the wrong terminology when I said "dipped." I used these two products. The White Lightning brushed on first and watched it foam. Hand brushed the tough spots, (wear goggles/glasses and gloves) Rinse, repeat, Rinse, repeat. Then I sprayed on the Eagle I, let sit, rinse repeat until I got them looking good.
Actually Ty, I used the wrong terminology when I said "dipped." I used these two products. The White Lightning brushed on first and watched it foam. Hand brushed the tough spots, (wear goggles/glasses and gloves) Rinse, repeat, Rinse, repeat. Then I sprayed on the Eagle I, let sit, rinse repeat until I got them looking good.
Why did you use the Eagle 1 after the other stuff, out of curiosity? Seems redundant since they are both acid cleaning products
Scooter,
The White Lightning took off the grease and stains. Then the Eagle I was more/less a "finish it off" type thing. My parts weren't that bad to begin with.
. think it is repairable? When these pictures were taken I had cleaned it all up and put the IAC back in already.
