Hey guys, I am going to be rebuilding and detailing the undercarriage of my 88 GTA this winter and was planning on installing stainless steel brake lines while I'm at it. The only problem is I can't seem to find a vendor that sells the brake line that runs across the rear axle for a 9 bolt rear. Everything I find is for the 10 bolt rear. Any ideas on where I can find this line pre bent for a 9 bolt with disc brakes?

Thanks,
Brian

 

I don't think anyone does since it was a low production item. I need to weld some brackets to my 9 bolt for the ends of the tubes, but the 10 bolt lines work well enough for the disc application on the 9 bolt

 

I used a set of 10 bolt disc brake lines on my 9 bolt build and just had to tweak a little here and there for a precise fit.

 

The braking systems between the 9- and 10-bolt are the same. Check out the following:

https://braketubes.com

FRA8602SS- 84-88' CHEVY CAMARO/ PONTIAC FIREBIRD, W/ J65 REAR DISC BRAKES, W/ HOSE ON RIGHT SIDE (NO LEFT HOSE), REAR AXLE BRAKE LINE SET; STAINLESS

JamesC

 

Que? The brackets are generally just bolted down with big sheet metal screws.

 

There are no brackets at all for the ends of the tubes, where they meet the hoses. I was going to make some and weld them on

 

Buy the line, tubing bender, and flaring tools and do it yourself.

 

The expense and inconvenience probably outweighs the $55.20 for the above lines.

JamesC

 

By all means, fab some brackets, but sheesh, bolts are plenty sturdy, no need to fire up the welder.

 

I will be purchasing the 10 bolt s.s. line in the near future. Thank you guys for all of the responses and for clearing that up for me.

-Brian

 

Then I have to break out the drill, tap and die set. Burning the MIG for 2 seconds for each bracket is a lot less work

 

I believe Classic sells what you need.
https://www.classicindustries.com/sh...=brake%20lines

 

I thought I checked Classic industries before but I guess I didn't look hard enough. That is what I am looking for. Thank you!

 

Whoa! Let's not get carried away here.... You're forgetting the time to open the gas bottle valve, purge the air out of the line, set the ***** and twisties, strap on your personal protective gear, etc...

Cordless drill, drill pilot hole (it might actually already be there), set drill driver torque clutch to "kill", insert square drive adapter, snap on the socket, line up the self tapper with the hole and squeeze the trigger until snug. Wham, Bam, Thank you Black & Decker.

 

Purge the lines?!? Strap on gear?!? Please, I am not welding a bridge here, just tacking a bracket to something. Auto darkening face mask and 2nd degree UV burns are what I do when I weld. Plus the MIG is right there accessible all the time, I have no idea where my drill is ATM :P Plus, I've not had good luck with self tapping screws into thicker metal like the bracketry for the rear axle.

 

A word of warning on the S/S lines the metal is so hard you need to tighten, loosen, tighten tighter, loosen TIGHTEN tighter to "seat" the flare or they will leak! I wont ever buy stainless lines again

I know the steel lines rust but do any of you still drive in the winter? I'd get steel lines and paint them with clear and they will last a good long time just stay out of the salt

 

You are correct, they need to be seated properly by doing this. I don't know why you would never buy them again though, they are wonderful. I put stainless on all my projects and will continue to do so in the future.

 

I appreciate the heads up. I have used stainless steel lines in the past on other vehicles and I have encountered the same issues to get them to seat properly, but for me the extra work/frustration installing stainless lines was worth it for the end result. The car is never in the rain, but my garage isn't heated,so I'm going with the stainless so I don't need to worry about surface rust on the lines or having clear coat yellow over time.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...0/applications