happyhapka

1986 trans am tpi...... ok this is wierd... replaced my alternator and she fired right up with no problem went to ace hardware tried to start and right when she started she died off. Tried again she kept wanting to die on me so i gave her some gas so she wouldnt die on me for about a minute she wanted to die... my afr guage was telling me she was wwaaaayyyy rich.. than she cleared up and was fine... i got her home and started to trouble shoot. Everything is where it needs to be as far as basics tps voltage and what not. Everytime i try to start her she wants to die.... now my maf is unplugged because i believe its bad, heres y, with it plugged in she runs good but when i go wot my afr hits 10afr witch is not good... with it unplugged she hits 11.5-12 afr witch is way better. So i think the calibration of it is screwed. So ive been running with it unplugged.... so i ended up paper clipping the aldl and run it in diagnostic mode.. she runs on start up.. turn it off pull the paperclip start it she dies... so i than plug in my maf sensor.. starts and is fine other than the fact right after start up afr gets as low as 11.3 than slowly creeps back up to 14.5-14.8afr. So im thinking she wants to over fuel for some reason and but not sure whats going on...... is it a bad computer?

shes never done this before.
thanks everyone.

happyhapka

Ok so update... i just wiggled some wires and looked at my tps sensor again... noticed that i have it set for .545 .... wot is 4.40 and when i slowly released it back to idle position it wasnt at .545 it was at .620... i did it again and it than at wot was 4.35 and at idle went to .545 ..... did it one more time and it went to .610 ... and i started it numerous times and the car started and ran just fine.... with the maf unplugged.... what in the hell is going on..(that is my thought)...... so i have a lifetime warranty on the tps sensor so am going to replace it........ any other ideas?

red rock

iTrader: (2)

The TPS sensor running at .610 is fine. I set mine at .65 at idle. I think you a O2 sensor issue or something else going intermittent.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Putting the engine in field service mode raises the idle. I’m wondering if you have a iac issue or if the new alternator voltage regulator might be messing up the engine running. Just guessing.

red rock

iTrader: (2)

I was thinking IAC, but then with the fuel going rich, maybe a o2 sensor, but that would be in closed loop. We need to know how long before it acts up. In open loop or closed loop. If the TPS flows on the ohm meter from .54 to 4.3, or from .61 to 4.40, that would be fine.

happyhapka

she has not done it since I jiggled the wires. it is a low amperage alternator like 90 something as ive gone through 4 alternators that carquest has given me... note that they have not even left the store due to it only putting out 12 amps on there tester so they gave me this one just to use untlil I get a one that works. im glad there working with me on this. does putting it in shop mode ignore the 02 sensor? it could be that as well but I believe I did replace it with a bosch unit like maybe 6 months ago. I have my tps now set at .615 and at wot is 4.35. and since last night it has been running good but want to try and figure it out.. I can replace my o2 sensor just to eliminate that so we can rule it out.

red rock

iTrader: (2)

I wouldn't just throw parts at it, unless you know for sure that they are bad. That can be costly, and you don't know for sure if you fixed it or not.

happyhapka

right I don't know.. she just has not acted up since last night. she did this for a couple hours than just stopped. and acted normal. hmmmm so do I wait until she starts doing it again?


being a low amperage alternator do you think could cause it?

red rock

iTrader: (2)

Yes wait, and possibly the alternator. Does it throw any codes on the ECM?

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

There is only a overcharge error code 53. Nothing for undercharging system.

happyhapka

the only code is for the MAF sensor as its unplugged.. that is all.

happyhapka

not sure if this was the issue that was cause the problems but I would think so. if it was putting on a nasty draw due to a short in the starter it would reak havoc on the tpi system. what do you guys think





1986 TPI trans am.


ok so just started last night I had a problem where I would turn the key on and the car would not start, so I go to check stuff out under the hood. I jiggle the wires to the starter and it starts than dies right off, so I jiggle the wires again and all the starter does is click click click but faster than normal. I wiggle the wires again, the car starts and gets me home.... so out of curiosity I try to start and shes dead again and notice the battery was hitting less than 8 volts on my guage while I leave my key on enginge off I jiggle the wires again, I go back and look at the guage my guage says 12.5 I try to start and it clicks again.. .. this battle goes on for a little bit.. I than grab a screw driver and with the key on engine off I connect the power post on the starter solenoid and connect it with the little post on the starter solenoid and it starts.... I than turn it off and my buddy comes over to help. as hes looking I go to start it and he sees smoke coming from the main power post from the starter solenoid as it clicks. tried it again theres more smoke. I confirmed it my self every time we go to start it there is white smoke coming from the main power post on the solenoid and all it does is click...


would this be a starter problem? I did notice that just before this started happening as the car was starting I kept hearing the clicking noise as it was turning over, (like when your battery is low and its cold outside it clicks as it turns over but fast because my battery is good.)


any idea? im replacing the starter today but wanted any other ideas to look at... it is a new starter so it has a warranty.


thanks

red rock

iTrader: (2)

Get back and let us know after you change the starter as to how it runs. If the car isn't running at the proper voltage, it will cause a bunch of running issues.

happyhapka

ya that's what I thought, and it could be the problem.... I cant believe im having these issues with a new starter. and is amazing how much chaos it can bring if its sucking the amps out of the car. . im off work at 1600 (4:00pm) and am going to get the starter off the car than exchange it. im really hoping this is the problem.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

You can use a inductive amp meter to find the amp draw. I have a small hand held unit I bout from Mac tools years ago works great.
Something like this. https://m.ebay.com/itm/CLIP-ON-TEST-...KQkn_I6eMTwIHQ
The ecm keep alive is the only amp draw you should have. It’s a half a amp.

happyhapka

ok so up date i think i fixed it.... i replaced my started and it starts and runs no problem. . Ilso replaced my alternator pulley with a march performance overdrive pulley... ..

im also wanting to add more grounding to it.... how would i go about that...

thanks.

red rock

iTrader: (2)

Get rid of the factory battery ground wire and up grade to a bigger gauge. Add a bigger gauge ground wire from the battery negative to the body These cars were under gauged from factory so anything you do will be an improvement. One of the best improvements also, is up grading the positive wire from the battery and alternator also. Go up one size bigger. I had mine all custom made from a local auto parts store.