do you guys think I should lower the front?
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,705
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From: Katy, Texas
Car: '91 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350 built
Axle/Gears: 3.73
do you guys think I should lower the front?
Take a look. This is with the new 165 R15 86T VW tires and the 15 x 6 Weld PRostars. It appears to me that the gap from the top of the tire to the body is larger, but I actually measured the tire diameter and it is 25 1/2" of so, basically the same as the old stock tire on the 16" rim. Anyway with a lowering spring set in the front of 1", it might look better. I guess I could go with Hoosier or MT front runners that come in larger sizes like 27". These tires are cheap, $50 each though. Waddayathink?
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,705
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From: Katy, Texas
Car: '91 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350 built
Axle/Gears: 3.73
The pic was after driving around for a while, so its down as much as its going down. Yeah, Ithink it would look cool down about 1" or so. It's just a matter of changing the springs right? You need a spring compessor and can buy those Eibach or like springs I think. Haven't done it before but doesn't sound to hard.
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,079
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From: Houston Texas
Car: 1989 IROC Z-28
Engine: L98 350--modified
Transmission: 700 R4--modified
Axle/Gears: 4:10 Posi
Since U are into drag racing, I would think that if U drop the front U would not get as much weight transfer if the front is dropped. Maybe somebody with more track experiance could answer.
I know there is a drag racing section here on the third gen board. Why don't U post the question on there as well, see what the best front 90/10 drag struts are for this car.
Should also get relacation brackets for the rear lower control arms if U do not have them already--they are supposed to increase rear bite!
Seems like I have heard that you will get better weight transfer if U remove the front sway bar--shouldn't affect the street much since U can't so any hard cornering with those tires anyway!
U do have 90/10 front drag struts --RIGHT???
I know there is a drag racing section here on the third gen board. Why don't U post the question on there as well, see what the best front 90/10 drag struts are for this car.
Should also get relacation brackets for the rear lower control arms if U do not have them already--they are supposed to increase rear bite!
Seems like I have heard that you will get better weight transfer if U remove the front sway bar--shouldn't affect the street much since U can't so any hard cornering with those tires anyway!
U do have 90/10 front drag struts --RIGHT???
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,508
Likes: 63
From: Austin, Tx
Car: 91 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Hawks 8.8
Have you thought about just cutting a coil or 2 off your existing springs?
As for front ride height affecting bite, i doubt it.....think about this, alot of the old muscle cars have the raked look where the front is REAL low and big tires out back. As long as the rear end is dumping down he should be fine on traction.
As for front ride height affecting bite, i doubt it.....think about this, alot of the old muscle cars have the raked look where the front is REAL low and big tires out back. As long as the rear end is dumping down he should be fine on traction.
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Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,705
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From: Katy, Texas
Car: '91 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350 built
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Ive heard cutting the springs is not really recommended, but honestly I don't know why. The trouble with buying a set like Eibach is you have to buy all 4. I guess I could lower the back to or maybe sell the back ones. I think you are right on the weight transfer idea. By the way, my suspenension is completely stock. I hope to upgrade that a bit but Im a bit economically challenged at the moment.
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,079
Likes: 1
From: Houston Texas
Car: 1989 IROC Z-28
Engine: L98 350--modified
Transmission: 700 R4--modified
Axle/Gears: 4:10 Posi
Cutting the springs is not recommended because they usually are cut with a torch and care is not taken so the remaining spring has not gotten hot which will remove the "spring temper" heat treating. If cut with a non heat method or GREAT CARE IS TAKEN when cutting with a torch so the remaining area has not been over heated. I/We used to cut springs all the time when we were "roundy-round racing" by putting them in a tub of water with the water line JUST below the cut point and cut for a couple seconds and wait a few seconds to cool cut a little more, wait, ETC.
The only disadvantage is U get a much stiffer spring and much less travel than if u go to a spring the same unloaded height, but with smaller or weaker coil pattern.
The only disadvantage is U get a much stiffer spring and much less travel than if u go to a spring the same unloaded height, but with smaller or weaker coil pattern.
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,508
Likes: 63
From: Austin, Tx
Car: 91 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Hawks 8.8
Yeah, I've heard that before Zap, maybe it isnt a good idea..... maybe a good short term fix until you can get the money for new springs?
Either way man, I think it looks fine as is, and can't wait to see the new changes in person.
Either way man, I think it looks fine as is, and can't wait to see the new changes in person.
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,079
Likes: 1
From: Houston Texas
Car: 1989 IROC Z-28
Engine: L98 350--modified
Transmission: 700 R4--modified
Axle/Gears: 4:10 Posi
Still think U should post the same question on the drag racing section of thirdgen and see what answers U get!
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