ok I went to the track with it all stock this is my first time on a track and I did 5 pulls this is a automatic 305 TBI RS Camaro best ¼ mile time was 16.830 with .458 reaction time and @ 82.28, 2.752 60 feet, 1/8 mile time 10.9111, @ 67.20.
My best 60ft was 2.6631 with a .227 reaction time. I will be doing the ultimate TBI if I can find a good way to break the tack wields on the silencer ring.. Where is the best place to get a positive track 3.55 gears or positive track 3.75 gears all ready done ready to bolt on and will my times get better with the more times I go and it was high presser and humidity today so I know that took some away from me but is there any other factors I need to look at

 

Glad to hear you got a car, and took it to the track. No better test of a car than a timed run. Saw your related post on the TBI board, and will affirm your 60' times are way off. Dial that in, and all else will come in with it.

What do you have for tires and suspension? That is easier / better to fix before new gears. 2.6x 60's sounds like that needs attention NOW, just for good / safe street use.

 

Well I bought the car 2 Thursdays ago it has brand new BF Good wrench radial tires. The strut bar is sound and so the rest of the rear end so the back end looks good I had my friends dad inspect the car before i bought it he is the head mechanic at Lexus but thank you for looking out for me could it be that I launched at idle and I never thought to burn the tires out after pasting the water trap

 

the track weather
95°F 70 % humidity at 5pm
91°F 75 % humidity at 7pm
87°F 75 % humidity at 9pm

 

a little drag strip trick--adjust the outside drivers side mirror to look at the rear wheel/tire--roll thru the water box (just barely)--put the tranny in 2nd gear--hold the foot brake and mash the gas hard until the tires start smoking --count to 3 and quit--be sure and put tranny in low if u are manual shifting or drive if U are letting it shift by itself--line up/stage--when U see the 3rd yellow light up--NAIL IT (don't wait for the green--if U see green before U go, U are late!!!)--hang on!

 

thanks

 

Yeah, didn't mean to sound alarmist, but the 60's are way off. I remember now you rejected a wrecked Formula you found (that was you, right?). Sounds like you know enough to have experienced people check it out for you.

Not sure if you went through the water box or not, but really no need to with the street tires, and good reasons not to. The rain grooves are designed to pick up the water and displace it outward. Front tires through he water box just leave a trail of water for your rear tires to follow, go around the box and then back in to it if you want the rears wet. But again, your rears won't benefit much from a long burnout, the rubber compound designed for street use is resistant to temperature changes. They won't get much stickier. A short hop, wet or dry, just to throw off any debris is usually sufficient.

You can reduce air pressures in the rears to get more grip, or feather / walk the throttle out of the gate. You will want a posi diff, and better gears for the track, and they will still work when you upgrade your motor, which I'm sure you will do in the future. You should also add supension upgrades to your plans now, it is a must-have for putting power to the ground. LCA's and relocation brackets. Upgrade the exhaust, and get a ECM tune after a top-notch mechanical tune. You might be able to get all that done with your $1k budget.

Send a PM to 1bad91z when you are ready for the chip tune.

Find and back-track the achievements of mw66nova here on TGO, he got his 305 to a 12.503 1/4 ET, with a 1.694 60' !

 

Wheelspin--sorry to dispute your word, but heating the crap out of street tires DOES help! If U follow the procedure I described earlier--2nd gear--once they start giving off smoke, count to 3 and line up and go. I have done it too many times with my street tires --I know it will help!!! I hav run 1.9's with my street tires--2.//2.2 without heating them--Yes U are correct in that heating them a little whimpy erk does not do crap, but a big "manly" burn will!

Do not reduce the air pressure less than 24 lbs--if U do the outer edges of the tread surface will be touching and the middle will not be supporting the load--too much air and it will be opposite--the middle will carry the majority of the load and the outer edges will not be hooking up!

 

Zap, You have enough experience, and are dialed-in well enough to realize those differences. Most are not. It can take a looooong manly burnout to develop enough heat in a modern street tire to make a difference. And that still won't be enough to get his 2.6x 60's to a 2.1x range.

Good advice on the air pressure, I didn't want to set a minimum but it has to be balanced to maintain the maximum tire contact for performance and safety.

 

I bet we could get the 60's down from 2.6 to 2.3's!

 

Only one way to know!

 

Let me at it--I'll take it for a couple passes!

OH yeah--couple things first U can't buy a rearend already to bolt in for your car--the rear end has to be built into the rear end housing in the car.

second U do not want to leave the line from idle--U wnt to give it a little gas to preload the suspension--not so much that U are fighting to keep from spinning the rear tires, but just enough to know that U are giving it SOME gas!

 

ok thanks i launched at idle and on my 5 passes i was trying to learn the tree thank you wheel spin and zap i plan on putting in a 3.42 True track gears, Rebuild the rear end with much better than stock parts. Then Flow Master dual exhaust after that a TPI 350 or a TBI 350 going from a TBI 305, cam heads, rout screw supercharger then hoping I am near 12’s i have a data cable and tunning soft ware now and after i go to the track again and data log i will tune the best I can so

 

Mike --1BAD91Z is the best TBI thirdgen tuner in this part of the country--might want to contact him about tuning your car! Send him a PM!