Battery keeps going dead????
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,705
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From: Katy, Texas
Car: '91 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350 built
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Battery keeps going dead????
As most of you know, I don't drive my car much, at the most once per week on the weekend. The battery went dead twice a while back after not driving the car for a week or more. I thought it was the battery. Replaced the battery and now it's back. I didn't drive the car since the fall brawl and tried it this weekend, completely dead, no electrical activity. Charged it up with a charger and drive it, seems fine, I expect it to be dead again next weekend.
One thing I noticed, when I first put the charger on there is a clicking noise near the battery, first fast, then slower, then it goes away in a few minutes completely.
This just came up out of the blue, I don't think there is a short somewhere. Any ideas?
One thing I noticed, when I first put the charger on there is a clicking noise near the battery, first fast, then slower, then it goes away in a few minutes completely.
This just came up out of the blue, I don't think there is a short somewhere. Any ideas?
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,079
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From: Houston Texas
Car: 1989 IROC Z-28
Engine: L98 350--modified
Transmission: 700 R4--modified
Axle/Gears: 4:10 Posi
U have a power drain somewhere. Not necessarily a short--just something that is draining power when the key is off, that is not supposed to be draining power.
The clicking sounds like a relay of sometype that may be the culprit, that for whatever reason is on when U think everything is off. next time it goes dead hook up the battery charger and try and find what it is that is clicking--don't let battery charge up--if it stops clicking--let battery drain back down and hook it up agin and try to find it. it quits clicking because there is enough power to keep contacts in relay closed and to drain power!
Done any electrical wiring changes lately of any type--start there!
If U can't figure it out--get ahold of Curt at Spring Branch Alt (713-690-664 I think--if not check phone book) and starter--probably one the best in Hou at stuff like that, or Owen.
The clicking sounds like a relay of sometype that may be the culprit, that for whatever reason is on when U think everything is off. next time it goes dead hook up the battery charger and try and find what it is that is clicking--don't let battery charge up--if it stops clicking--let battery drain back down and hook it up agin and try to find it. it quits clicking because there is enough power to keep contacts in relay closed and to drain power!
Done any electrical wiring changes lately of any type--start there!
If U can't figure it out--get ahold of Curt at Spring Branch Alt (713-690-664 I think--if not check phone book) and starter--probably one the best in Hou at stuff like that, or Owen.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,705
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From: Katy, Texas
Car: '91 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350 built
Axle/Gears: 3.73
U have a power drain somewhere. Not necessarily a short--just something that is draining power when the key is off, that is not supposed to be draining power.
The clicking sounds like a relay of sometype that may be the culprit, that for whatever reason is on when U think everything is off. next time it goes dead hook up the battery charger and try and find what it is that is clicking--don't let battery charge up--if it stops clicking--let battery drain back down and hook it up agin and try to find it. it quits clicking because there is enough power to keep contacts in relay closed and to drain power!
Done any electrical wiring changes lately of any type--start there!
If U can't figure it out--get ahold of Curt at Spring Branch Alt (713-690-664 I think--if not check phone book) and starter--probably one the best in Hou at stuff like that, or Owen.
The clicking sounds like a relay of sometype that may be the culprit, that for whatever reason is on when U think everything is off. next time it goes dead hook up the battery charger and try and find what it is that is clicking--don't let battery charge up--if it stops clicking--let battery drain back down and hook it up agin and try to find it. it quits clicking because there is enough power to keep contacts in relay closed and to drain power!
Done any electrical wiring changes lately of any type--start there!
If U can't figure it out--get ahold of Curt at Spring Branch Alt (713-690-664 I think--if not check phone book) and starter--probably one the best in Hou at stuff like that, or Owen.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 560
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From: Currently:...Home: Texas City.
Car: 89 Formula 350 (x 2)
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: BW 3.27
Get an automotive stethoscope to trace it Larry. I've had mine over 30 years now, found many problems before they became critical (water pumps, alternators and PS pumps primarily). Your headlight motors still working correctly? I think our models are a little different, but may be a motor relay up there acting up.
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 987
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From: Houston-katy
Car: 1986 Irocz- Houstons Fastest Street
Engine: 408 LS1 w/ 2 stage
Transmission: Turbo 350
Axle/Gears: 3:73,3850 lbs , best of 9.92 @ 138
check your grounds and make sure the cables back to the battery are good, also try to disconnect the battery after the car is running to make sure the battery isnt running the whole car
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 560
Likes: 0
From: Currently:...Home: Texas City.
Car: 89 Formula 350 (x 2)
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: BW 3.27
Headlight switch moved to off position, or ignition turnd to off position, is supposed to cause the F'bird headlight motors to go to the closed position. I love the Firebird, but these DeLorean headlights make me want to go Camaro.
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Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,705
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From: Katy, Texas
Car: '91 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350 built
Axle/Gears: 3.73
headlights work good, but the sound is near/under the driver side headlight area. I don't think the battery is running the whole car, but I will try that as well. The car starts and runs fine but over time the current just drains away.
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Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,705
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From: Katy, Texas
Car: '91 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350 built
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 556
Likes: 1
From: Houston, TX
Car: 1986 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T5 WC
Axle/Gears: 3.42 T2R
I had the same sort of problem... a power drain. Ended up having my buddy disconnect the battery, me pull a fuse, and reconnect (touch the battery cable to)the battery. There was a small spark. Replace fuse and move onto the next fuse. Repeat. After removing a certain fuse, there was considerably less of a spark. Mine turned out to be my hatch motor. FYI.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,705
Likes: 0
From: Katy, Texas
Car: '91 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350 built
Axle/Gears: 3.73
I had the same sort of problem... a power drain. Ended up having my buddy disconnect the battery, me pull a fuse, and reconnect (touch the battery cable to)the battery. There was a small spark. Replace fuse and move onto the next fuse. Repeat. After removing a certain fuse, there was considerably less of a spark. Mine turned out to be my hatch motor. FYI.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,262
Likes: 1
From: houston
Car: 83 POS monte carlo 2015 chevy P/U
Engine: 92 5.7 tpi 5.3
Transmission: 700r4 6L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.42 too high
you can use a test light. unhook one of the battery cables & hook the test light up between the cable & battery post.
make sure you push the door switch for the dome light in so your not seeing a draw from it. bright light means big current draw, the dimmer light the less draw you have. i forget at what point the light does not light up at, i think its around 0.125 ~ 0.175 amps or so.
make sure you push the door switch for the dome light in so your not seeing a draw from it. bright light means big current draw, the dimmer light the less draw you have. i forget at what point the light does not light up at, i think its around 0.125 ~ 0.175 amps or so.
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 26
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From: san antonio texas
Car: 1989 Firebird formula 350
Engine: L98 long tube headers BBK TB
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 positrac
another way you cna see is get yourself a multimeter or jsut an ammeter if you dont want to spend the money on a multi meter, check how many amps you are pulling with the battery hooked up but the car off, it shouldnt be over .4 amps, anything over that is way to much. and if its carbuerated there probably shouldnt be any, depends on teh car, but if its like .9 and up leave the car off, battry connected and stuff, and start pu;ing fuses while a buddy watches the ammeter, when the culprit fuse is pulled your amps that the system is using will disapear, this way is probably more effective than trying to "guage" a spark, and this method is what a electrician would do if you brought the car to him
PS. hook up the ammeter is series with the batterey, Example: negatiive battery post----->negative ammeter lead----->ammeter----->positive test lead----->negative batt clamp
PS. hook up the ammeter is series with the batterey, Example: negatiive battery post----->negative ammeter lead----->ammeter----->positive test lead----->negative batt clamp
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 310
Likes: 3
From: Colorado
Car: 1991 TransAm GTA 350
Engine: 350 SBC TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Watch it making sparks around a battery. When lead acid batteries charge, they produce hydrogen; sparks and hydrogen are bad business. The most likely time for a battery to explode is when connecting and disconnecting. If it's been on a charger, count on there being a lot of hydrogen in the battery. Fortunatly it floats away rather quickly so fanning and or blowing across the battery can dissipate it.
Last edited by TexasSilhouette; Dec 1, 2006 at 10:03 AM. Reason: Corrected some of my crappy typing
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,079
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From: Houston Texas
Car: 1989 IROC Z-28
Engine: L98 350--modified
Transmission: 700 R4--modified
Axle/Gears: 4:10 Posi
Watch it making sparks around a battery. When lead acid batteries charge, they produce hydrogen; sparks and hydrogen are bad business. THe most likely time for a battery to explode is when connecting and disconnecting. If it's been on a charger, cound on there being a lot of hydrogen in the battery. Fortunatly it floats away rather quickly so faning and or blowing across the battery can dissipate it.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,705
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From: Katy, Texas
Car: '91 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350 built
Axle/Gears: 3.73
I have been having the same problem with my 88 Camaro, I disconnected the battery while the car was running and it died. Any idea on where I should go from there?
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 556
Likes: 1
From: Houston, TX
Car: 1986 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T5 WC
Axle/Gears: 3.42 T2R
Easiest thing is to get the alternator tested. Most parts places do it for free. Other than that, I've personally had the wire that 'activated' the alternator go bad.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,262
Likes: 1
From: houston
Car: 83 POS monte carlo 2015 chevy P/U
Engine: 92 5.7 tpi 5.3
Transmission: 700r4 6L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.42 too high
if you car has an ECM, don't unhook the battery when the motor is running, that can fry the ECM.
with the motor off check the voltage at the battery with a volt meter, check it again with the motor running, if it reads at least 13.2 or higher, it sounds like you have a current draw somewhere. if its lower when running turn the motor off & unplug the connector on the side of the alternator & turn the key to the on position but don't start the motor, then check for power on both wires in the connector.
also check for power on the terminal on the back of the alternator, you don't need to unhook the wire on the back to check it.
both the red wire on the side connector & the one on the back should have battery voltage to them.
i believe the small brown wire on the side connector should also have battery voltage on it.
with the motor off check the voltage at the battery with a volt meter, check it again with the motor running, if it reads at least 13.2 or higher, it sounds like you have a current draw somewhere. if its lower when running turn the motor off & unplug the connector on the side of the alternator & turn the key to the on position but don't start the motor, then check for power on both wires in the connector.
also check for power on the terminal on the back of the alternator, you don't need to unhook the wire on the back to check it.
both the red wire on the side connector & the one on the back should have battery voltage to them.
i believe the small brown wire on the side connector should also have battery voltage on it.
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,079
Likes: 1
From: Houston Texas
Car: 1989 IROC Z-28
Engine: L98 350--modified
Transmission: 700 R4--modified
Axle/Gears: 4:10 Posi
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,705
Likes: 0
From: Katy, Texas
Car: '91 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350 built
Axle/Gears: 3.73
I tried a few things on my car battery deal about two weeks ago. Then last weekend before last it was dead again, then I went on a business trip for a week and got back yesterday. So I guess its really dead now. I need to get out there this weekend and figure it out.
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,079
Likes: 1
From: Houston Texas
Car: 1989 IROC Z-28
Engine: L98 350--modified
Transmission: 700 R4--modified
Axle/Gears: 4:10 Posi
Both of U guys--if possible--go see Curt @
Spring Branch Alt + Starter
713-690-6644
Gessner and Hempstead--1/2 blk east
Call before U go over!
Spring Branch Alt + Starter
713-690-6644
Gessner and Hempstead--1/2 blk east
Call before U go over!
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,705
Likes: 0
From: Katy, Texas
Car: '91 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350 built
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Senior Member

Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 726
Likes: 1
From: League City, TX
Car: 90 Formula -- tot resto in progress
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4 w/ 2500 stall, by Owen @ ARD
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi disc
I fought a charging problem for a while. Alternator tested good, but
battery wasn't getting charged. Problem turned out to be a severely
coroded junction block. On the 90 Formula, this was mounted on the
core support in close proximity to the battery (hence the corrosion),
but not readily visible. Cleaned it up, problem solved.
I thought I've seen this problem in tech forums, but I can't remember
the ultimate solution. Have you tried a search? The hatch-pull
seems a very likely culprit.
Denn-Shah has as usual, the good hard number info.
Good luck, & keep up posted.
kk
battery wasn't getting charged. Problem turned out to be a severely
coroded junction block. On the 90 Formula, this was mounted on the
core support in close proximity to the battery (hence the corrosion),
but not readily visible. Cleaned it up, problem solved.
I thought I've seen this problem in tech forums, but I can't remember
the ultimate solution. Have you tried a search? The hatch-pull
seems a very likely culprit.
Denn-Shah has as usual, the good hard number info.
Good luck, & keep up posted.
kk
Moderator
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,079
Likes: 1
From: Houston Texas
Car: 1989 IROC Z-28
Engine: L98 350--modified
Transmission: 700 R4--modified
Axle/Gears: 4:10 Posi
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