heheh, its not often anyone says that anymore, but anyways, i am 16 goin on 17 in a mo. I have a job working for a world wide chain makin 6. somthin an hour. My questions are as follows:
1.) Anyone have any ideas of ways to conserve money?

I am looking to buy a 5L camaro w/ a five speed. But i need to know a few things befor i buy it.

2.) should i buy a nice one in fairly nice shape (body and interior) for about 2.5 k, or do i go out and buy a car like (https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/Forum2/HTML/003060.html) that needs some tlc. You already know my perdicament with money, so i would hope you consider this in the decision. Any work (except paint) i could do w/ my dad and friend. I know cars like that dont get put in the paper, so how would i get a hold of one.


I really appreciate the time you have taken to read this post and hope you will give me some input.


Another thing, i really want TPI, would it be worth buying a z28, with a carb and swap it with a TPI unit from a junkyard or hell buy a wrecked one, put it in one of those cheap garages where people store stuff, and part it out? And worse come to worse its probibly not a good idea to buy a RS w/ a little V6 right? it would be a little to much work, but if i do, what are the other differences between RS, Z-28, and IROC's? I assume there are suspension differences but is it anything i could swap out. like sway bars . . . hmm nevermind i really want 4 wheel disk breaks, did rs 's come with that? What are the gearing differences in the 5 speeds RS, Z-28, and IROC's? thanks again

 

Ok first thing you need to know is stay away from a car with bad body work. That is the most expensive fix for a car. 2nd: If you want TPI get a TPI because swaping one in is a difficult job where errors could cost long trouble shooting times. 3rd: If you want a V8 car get one with a V8 in it, because V6's drivetrain can't handle V8s. So what I am trying to say is find a V8 TPI with a strait body it will be MUCH more cost efficent later. The inside can be replaced fairly cheap if you go junk yarding.

Hope this helps. Where are you from anyways?

 

NW san antonio

 

Well,there is an immaculate 90 IROC going for 4500 cash here where I'm at.Blk on blk,bad-@$$ sounding Flowmaster exhaust with dual cats.Cleanest interior I've seen in a 3rd gen for a while.If my wife and I weren't re-modeling the house and buying a new Expedition,I'd get it.

 

Eww, an Expedition? My name say's it all!

 

having been in your situation myself but 3 years ago, pay close attention. Don't rush into this by any means. If you browse the archives you'll see that I started posting that I was looking for my 92 about 3 months before I ever got it.

a few main points
1.) Swapping induction systems is not for the faint of heart, nor those not mechanically inclined(or rich if not mechanically inclined).

2.) Bad body work can get expensive fast, especially to fix it right. I have one dent that I'm dreading already, and I don't plan on doing anything about it for a few years.

3.) We're in TX, there are vast numbers of good relatively low mileage 3rd gens w/ 305's and 5spds. Look, and you shall find.

if you just jump in and buy the first thing you see, you will regret it later. Unless of course you spend a good few hours looking through the car, even then, a week later you'll see a car that is "perfect" for $300 less than what you paid for yours.

the Ragin'87, was my first car. Paid $600 for it, I was working in a shop at the time, so getting it running and all was no problem. Only 2 weeks later the engine just took a ****, and I had to pull all my remaining cash(that was gonna go towards a new body/interior) to build a new motor. All in all I spent less than $3000 on the car, but in the end it would have been better to just wait and bought a nicer car the first time around. I was paid back for that mistake by having to drive a Nissan for almost a year.

I'm not trying to scare you off at all, just give you some stories from personal experience. As for ways to conserve money, open a savings account.. now.. DON'T TOUCH IT. Don't buy **** you don't need. go into "chill mode".. you don't have to go out to have fun.

Good luck, and if you have any questions feel free to e-mail me. I'm sure I left something out, but I'm not trying to write a novel.

later,
Anthony

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previous ride: 87 Camaro LT
350, A4.Comp Cams 268H, Edelbrock Preformer intake, Hedman Headers and y-pipe, gutted cat, No AIR/smog pump. 14x3" Open element K&N, Q-jet w/ D hanger and DA rods, adjusted AV spring tension and quick can.

Current ride: 1992 Camaro RS, K&N, Flowmaster, 305, T5, Black, T-tops, 76k miles.

 

Find out if you can get direct deposit where you work. You may be able to send money to an account before you ever get your hands on it to spend it. This worked great for me when I was in the Army, the bills were paid before I got the check. If not, just get a separate savings account and put as much as you can spare in it when you get your check. Even if it's only like 20 bucks it all adds up. If you have an ATM card or checks for the account you WILL get money out so leave them at home or don't get them at all.

The biggest thing about finding the right car is patience and research. There are ways to tell if someone is telling you the truth about a car like carfax. You have all the info you need on this board. I had a guy try to tell me an RS convertible with a TBI was a 350. You will probably have to comprimise somewhere as far as options or colors. Just don't compromise on big things
like body work.

One of the best ways to find a car is to let everyone you know look for you. I got my Trans Am convertible because a guy I work with spotted it near his house. Tell everyone to be on the lookout and there are people on the board who will help out.

 

If I were you I would stay away from the t tops unless that is what you really want as for they leak after time and tend to be expensive to replace and the stress to the chasis over time can lead to further problems. Then again its your decision. Me I wouldn't want them as for the things i do with my car like road race sh&%stangs down these rough back roads we have here in tx haha :-) oh and the irocs and zs i'll take one of them on also on back roads :-) i've won some and lost some. Most of the lost ones were on roads i wasn't familiar with but hey i'm off topic here haha. You can pick up the t tops in salvage yards alot but most are dry rotted or cracked :-( if you do go for a t top the first thing id do is get a strut tower brace to stifen up the front end. I just happened to get lucky and have mine handed to me from my grandmother. I wish she had better taste though no power nuthing and a 60* engine :-( some day like you i will actually save money (aside from bills) and swap for a 5.7 or 383. I still wish when i got my trans rebuilt i went 5 sp. A little tip if you need a trans rebuild don't take it to b&c. not sure if in your area. Oh and as your looking at the cars check the trans dip stick smell the fluid and make sure its not dark red-black or has little pieces of metal in it. :-) just a little tip. Oh one more thing be sure to take off the oil cap (in the valve cover) and look inside to see if its gunked up. If so they change oil way beyond 3000 and its ben worn out so to speek. :-)

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1987 Chevrolet Camaro
2.8 Ltr HO Cut air boxes K&N Filters Gutted Cat (Did I say gutted opps don't tell the officer)
Duel catback Exhaust With Flowmaster series 80 dual 5"X24" MONSTER Echos
97 Firebird 16X8" Rims

[This message has been edited by michael (edited September 09, 2001).]