Transmission install
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Transmission install
I took the old 200C out and put the 200 4R in yesterday. Took about 8 hours but there were a couple of minor problems.
Parts included:
200 4R... bought from local company that rebuilds them.
Spohn crossmember.... nice and sturdy piece but needed a little modification
speedometer drive gear.... this had to be ordered and took some doing to find which one was needed.
Old tranny came out without a hitch. Fluid tube, speedo gear hold-down, rubber mount, tv cable all crossed over to the tranny. There were no provisions for the torque arm. I cut the torque arm mount, turned it upside down and backwards and welded it to the Spohn crossmember. The bottom hole in the crossmember had to be enlarged to allow a socket to access the nut for the rubber mount.
went pretty good in my opinion and overdrive is oh so nice
Parts included:
200 4R... bought from local company that rebuilds them.
Spohn crossmember.... nice and sturdy piece but needed a little modification
speedometer drive gear.... this had to be ordered and took some doing to find which one was needed.
Old tranny came out without a hitch. Fluid tube, speedo gear hold-down, rubber mount, tv cable all crossed over to the tranny. There were no provisions for the torque arm. I cut the torque arm mount, turned it upside down and backwards and welded it to the Spohn crossmember. The bottom hole in the crossmember had to be enlarged to allow a socket to access the nut for the rubber mount.
went pretty good in my opinion and overdrive is oh so nice
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From: Kansas City, MO
Car: 83 Z28
Engine: 406
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" with 4.10s
Originally posted by 82Z28NAZ
if i did that everyone would lose out from laughing too hard at my et's
if i did that everyone would lose out from laughing too hard at my et's
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Originally posted by cg91ta
Good job, can't wait to see it again!
I thought the torque arm was supposed to be mounted to the transmission tailshaft, not the crossmember?
Good job, can't wait to see it again!
I thought the torque arm was supposed to be mounted to the transmission tailshaft, not the crossmember?
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being it as it may... I believe I'll make this one my highway car. It has 2.93 gears in the rear now and I might be going to 2.73's in the near future (if I can ever get back to Louisiana). Plus, being a crossfire, I don't expect to get a whole lot of horse power out of it without ripping it apart. Perhaps with the next one I'll have something to play at the tracks with. I've even considered a bird.
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Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Kansas City, MO
Car: 83 Z28
Engine: 406
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" with 4.10s
Sounds cool. What came with 2.93's, is that a 9 bolt? Did you set the pinion angle before you welded it in. I got a dial indicator if you didn't. Does that hood have the working cowl??
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Originally posted by graebz28
Sounds cool. What came with 2.93's, is that a 9 bolt? Did you set the pinion angle before you welded it in. I got a dial indicator if you didn't. Does that hood have the working cowl??
Sounds cool. What came with 2.93's, is that a 9 bolt? Did you set the pinion angle before you welded it in. I got a dial indicator if you didn't. Does that hood have the working cowl??
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I forgot to mention that in 1982 the Z28 only came with either 2.93 or 3.23 rear gears.
The weld in job is temporary until I'm able to fabricate a better one. Possibly offer a cheap solution for people who want to make the switch to the 200 4R and want to keep the stock torque arm.
This weekend I have to replace the TV detent cable I pinched during the reinstallation process.
The weld in job is temporary until I'm able to fabricate a better one. Possibly offer a cheap solution for people who want to make the switch to the 200 4R and want to keep the stock torque arm.
This weekend I have to replace the TV detent cable I pinched during the reinstallation process.
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iTrader: (5)
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 662
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From: Kansas City, MO
Car: 83 Z28
Engine: 406
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" with 4.10s
It would throw off your pinion angle which could lead to binding or excessive vibration. Basically, you want the d/s angle - pinion angle to be zero, -1 when drag racing and -2 is for extreme draggin. Spohn said that even -1 degree puts more stress on the u-joints.
Anytime you start adjusting pinion angles you are going to lose some life on the u-joints. I constantly run -2 degrees on an adjustable torque arm with no excessive vibration or noise. My only problem is that I haven't found a way to get my ds loop to fit properly because the ds is very close to the torque arm.
Also, I have witnessed several guys adjust their pinion angles to -4 degrees at the track and did not break. Of course, they switched the angle back after they left the track.
Also, I have witnessed several guys adjust their pinion angles to -4 degrees at the track and did not break. Of course, they switched the angle back after they left the track.
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