I need AC, but the compressor is bad and I can't remove it at home because I don't want to blow my face off. I have a newer one I bought from Esams months ago that is ready to go on. But this AC shop keeps telling me I need to have the coolant clean because now it's mud-rusty. I have home flushed many times but it still comes back rusty w/i hours.

Vader said I don't need to have it clean, other than the fact my engine might run hotter, which it doesn't.

Please help.

-Kevin

 

What comes back rusty?

 

coolant

 

Take it some where have it evacuated, Swap compressors, Then evacuated again to remove the air you let in, and charge. I personally have converted 3 of my 5 to r134a and I think they work just as good as r12 plus its a hell of a lot cheaper.

You could always release the freon yourself just make sure you dont get caught or (shouldn't have to say but) use a screw driver and keep yourself out of the way of the discharge. Then swap out the compressor...Make sure you change the Orfice tube and SHOULD ALSO change the Drier....Fairly cheap at autozone...Then get it evac'd, then charge

Either way you go you NEED TO CHANGE THE "DRIER" AND THE "ORFICE TUBE"

 

Especially if you're planning on any of them honoring any kind of warranty. Well worth the $$$ IMO

 

Can I get both of those things at Autozone, the drier and the orfice tube?

 

absolutely.. buy them all at the same time. They won't give you the warranty paperwork unless you do. I know that was the case when I bought my setup from Checker.

 

Why do I need to change the dryer? Shouldn't the shop have changed it upon the R-12 to R13 conversion?

Also, I stuck the screwdriver in both terminals of the dryer. I assume that is the part that I "evacuate"? Just as I thought, there was nothing in it at all. The compressor is shot to hell.

Here's an update on the coolant situation. I did my 9th and 10th home flush today in the 110* summer heat <----awesome isn't it? After the 9th flush I went for a drive and the coolant returned to mud-rust. On the 10th time, I drove around for a bit, went a couple places came home to check and prepared for the inevitable "mud-rust" again. Let it cool down removed the Preston back flush cap and resevoir cap..........LO and BEHOLD......

Crystal clear coolant. Actually water. I've checked once more since then after a drive and it's still clear. I hope to *** it stays this way so that damn shop can recharge my system. But do I really need to buy a new dryer every time? Like I said above, a shop already did the retro-R134 kit.

Please let me know, I would love to have reliable cold as ice A/C next weekend.

 

Well for one thing get something of an additive (coolant, 40 below, Water Wetter) in ther cooling system so you're not rusting back up again. Stupid Californians etc. who think that no freeze = no coolant. (car I bought in L.A. is reason for comment)

If the drier is less than a year olde and being used on the same refrigerant, and nothing has contaminated the system yeah I would risk reusing it, but that's me.

 

the shop isn't going to change something if they can't get paid for it. I learned the hard way on an old toyota pickup that if you're going to change your AC.. whether converting or physically changing the compressor, you need to change the dryer, orifice tube and compressor. Check your old orifice tube and you'll see all the metal shavings in the mesh screen. Well guess what... that's in your dryer too.

as far as your rusty coolant goes... I had the same problem for awhile. I flushed that damn thing probably 3 times a week for months .. hoping it would stay green... until I said F**K it and went and bought myself a new OEM aluminum radiator. That sucker kept the coolant ELECTRIC green and ran SOOO much cooler. A brand new OEM aluminum radiator cost me $139 from Dana Radiator on Country Club & Broadway in Mesa. Well worth it IMO. they also do great radiator work if you're not looking to replace.

 

If you change to 134 it is easier and cheaper to do it all yourself. Be prepared for a couple trips to the store.

You're going to want to change every "O" ring. The connections on the radiator, the orifice tube, the 4 or so on the dryer and the ones on the condenser. If you bought the compressor used also plan on getting that one. You'll need to pick up the 134 oil for the compressor as well.

Start by replacing the o rings. when you get tot he drier, replace it, as any debris that gets in the system will be in the dryer and you don't want to ruin all your hard work for a $40 peice. The orifice tube is super east to change, looks more like afilter than anything else. When you replace the pressure sensor on the dryer, tweak the setting 1/2-3/4 turn counter-clockwise.

Just before you mount up the compressor, pour some isopropyl alcohol into one hose, and then using an air compressor blow it out the other and vice versa. THis will ensure no water is in the lines. Have a catch rag ready before you blow and keep the stuff away from your face etc.

Prefill the compressor with oil. Spin it over at least 2 complete revolutions and then mount it up.

Once it's all together, start it up and put it on max a/c and the fan on high. Hook the can up and shake it 'til you can't anymore, then find someone to shake it some more.

2 1/2 - 3 cans and you'll have ice blowing out the vents.

Mine is still blowing very cold 15 months after I did it without any maintenance.

 

Where do you get the cans of R13? I thought only A/C shops have them.

 

R12 you have to have a license to buy but R134A you can pick up at autozone im pretty sure still. At least last i checked you could.

 

You guys are talking about those Re-Charge kits, right? I asked about using those to recharge after I put in the new compressor and etc, and people said they wouldn't work in that application. But if you guys say they do work, then why would someone say they wouldn't? <---Was that question confusing or what?

 

Okay, I just got the new dryer and orifice tube (which doesn't look like an air filter, more like a really fancy Q-tip). Do I just start removing those 3 things?

-I need my car as a daily driver, so should I hook the compressor up to the bracket and have the belt on there, if I can't get everything done in time for work? Or should I buy a smaller belt? I need help on that detail.

-I know I'll need multiple O-rings, but how many in a ball park and how many sizes are there? If I can eliminate some useless trips to Autozone and checker that would really help me out. I'd rather buy too many O-rings than not enough.

-Anything else?

 

Ok, Lets do this right you have (correct me if I am wrong) a new Compressor, Orfice Tube, and Drier...

Your Compressor should have come with 2 new O-rings for the hoses...WHEN INSTALLING the new O'rings coat them with "pag" oil...install new Drier again using new orings supplied...(again coating with the oil) The hoses go to the Condensor not the radiator....(that was mentioned a few posts back)...Install the new Orfice tube..

By the way installation doesn't have to be in that order.

NOW that everything is installed......

Take it to a shop and have it "Evacuated and Leak tested"

Then you can charge it....Go to Autozone buy a "Conversion Kit"
for (34.99) I think was last time I checked...It comes with 3 cans of "R134A" (not r13 as there is no r13 and now r12 is only recycled not new so it doesn't cool as well) It will also come with the Gauge, and 3 Fittings....(you only need the long fitting) it goes on the "Shrader Valve" on you Drier...Let it sit after you put it on for about 10 minutes....Then hook up your can of R134A to the gauge then to the new fitting you just installed....Now twist the valve on the gauge all the way down to puncture the can then teist it back out...Hold the can upside down until the can is empty...


Your motor must be running and your a/c turned on high

If your Compressor doesn't engage (and you will hear it) then pull the connector off the back of the drier and jump the terminals (on the connector not the drier) that is a presure switch that cuts off the compressor when you are low on refrigerant..By jumping the terminal it forces the compressor to engage...any questions call me...

Preston
(602) 373-0933

 

Like he said, but if you don't want to void the warranty on the compressor, pre-fill it with the right oil and turn it over 2 revolutions by hand before you mount it in the car.

 

Nice Catch I missed that part......

 

I got that PAG 150 oil, how much do I pour into the compressor?