All this reading lately of everyone selling there cars? Depressing.

Anyways, I am finally pondering actually trying to boost the little V6 I have with a Paxton NOVI-1000 supercharger. I figure it will be the only way I can hopefuly get some decent power out of this V6 and still hopefully be able to easily swap things out quickly for smog inspections.

What I am still thinking on doing is building the 3.4 I have but only worry about keeping it smog legal and computer friendly since I have no real option on tuning (from what responses I have had in past questions)

Now with a Supercharger install, I am under the impression that all I need for it is the head unit, and FMU to boost up the fuel pressure, an intercooler, and a bypass valve to reroute the boosted air back around for safety.

The only other question I have is what to do with the MAF
1) will it handle about 6-7psi boost?
2) should it retain before or after the SC in the induction routing
3) scrap the idea all together since I know nothing about boosted motors and am off track in my thoughts.

Need helpful advice on installation routing of the FMU and bypass setups also

Dean

edit: I shopuld also add that the motor I am going to build should easily handle about 15+ psi of boost. It will be far from stock but I intend on keeping the compression at around 9:1-9:4 range and the cam at a computer friendly .440"/.440" lift. Anything above that appears to run dirty on smog checks.

Head unit-
SuperchargersOnline.com :: Listing
Something along this line for an intercooler-
SuperchargersOnline.com :: Product: IceVex Universal Intercooler (25x12x3)
FMU-
SuperchargersOnline.com :: Product: Paxton Fuel Control Unit - 6:1 Ratio
Bypass-
SuperchargersOnline.com :: Product: Vortech Universal Maxflow Racing Bypass Valve (black top/polished bottom)

 

You should visit the power adder board, same principles apply.

You will need something to retard the timing, MSD makes a box, its vacuum referenced.
MAF before the SC, otherwise you have to reprogram. The stock tables are set up assuming standard air pressure.
A bypass/blowoff isnt entirely necessary, better to run without first and add it later if you think it needs it. What it will allow you to do though is control the boost level otherwise you cant, you get what you get.
Your fuel pump and injectors might not like the additional fuel pressure.

 

Fuel pump is not a problem- Its not stock. Its a 255lph unit.

As for timing, I run it advanced 3 degress (13*) right now and can just drop that back to 10* factory to get the top end. If I can go adjustable on the bypass and set the boost pressure VIA pulleys and gauge, I can simply set it so that the engine will not detonate on 91- I really do not care about any low end on this car- its useless below 3,000 rpms.

thoughts???

 

Also I shoulkd add that I have both 17 and 19 lb injectors. I have the stock 15's in there still and with the fuel pressure turned all the way up they still run it lean @ idle and close to normal/lean at WOT.

stock psi is 37 psi idle/43 wot

Mine is running 42 idle/ 52 wot with the 15's

I could get away right now I think with just running the 17's turned back down to 37psi

 

Most cars I have seen retard the timing about 2-3 degrees for every # of boost. I have mine at 3/# (15 degrees max retard IIRC), run 12# boost max, and I had to back off the WOT timing table because it was pinging on 91 and octane boost.

If you run the bypass/blowoff, it has to plumb to re-enter the intake between the MAF and SC, otherwise things go haywire. The air from the bypass has already been metered and the computer thinks it went into the engine.

 

Something along this line?

MSD Ignition Boost Timing Master, Universal

That seems easy enough to splice in and can be left for smog checks- says its legal and has EO# for all street vehicles.

I want to mount the SC in position where the other year cars run a smog pump (my year did not require one). I can swap it out of the car and change back to original belt. Then just simply unhook the SC induction routing (and bypass included) and rehook the MAF to the fatory TPI style air intake- the FMU is more of the problem disabling i think if I end up mounting it up under the plenum? not sure how they work exactly or mount- I'll have to see one. I just want things easy to swap back to factory within about 30mins to an hour max. I can just leave the intercooler mounted hidden up in front of the radiator unhooked.

I am hell bent on leaving this little lightweight V6 in the car for handling reasons and these additions would not be greatly weighted in gains. I still have the option to offset weight 50 lbs by relocating the battery and am also planning on a fiberglass hood in the very near future before re-painting

 

Yep, that'd do it.

 

Thank you for the help- I am getting a better understanding and can further plan the possible purchase. I am weighing my apples right now. I just don't think I will be happy just building a NA 3.4 V6 for this car that has to comply with smog.

 

Here's a useless picture for you. The FMU is the blue thing on the right, its spliced into the fuel return line, I bought some Earl's fittings so I didnt have to hack things up. Keep in mind its referenced to boost so without the SC hooked up it will do exactly nothing. If its hidden, noone will be the wiser. Hiding on top of the brake booster is the MSD retard box, and as you can see the bypass is not hooked up in this picture.

Mine wouldnt pass smog with the SC hooked up, so I disconnected the discharge tube, hooked the old intake back up (it runs off to the left, not right), and took it back... fortunately I knew someone who was willing to ignore the big shiny thing with the sharp fan on the right.

Is the Paxton still self oiled? No oil feed or drain line?

 

Thats exactly the info I needed- Picture speaks a thousand words and the fuel lines will all be Earls when I am finished. I can hide the FMU down near the trans where the fuel lines run.

I have a very good friend (Louie- owns Vertical Doors) that bought Paxtons Hummer from them and has a NOVI series SC on it. He has been running it for several years now and it is very very reliable as his daily driver. Louie also has an old Paxton SC on a Saleen Mustang he owns that is the old style and is frozen due to the old style poor self-lubrication setup. The NOVI series is far more reliable and is still self lubricating. The Hummer is so dam crowded in the engine bay its hard to see anything. The Mustang has been abandoned over at his pops house for many years now so I have not been able to inspect it in person lately to see how things route. Louie is thye type that is not mechanically inclined for the most part and pay others to install things for him- or buys things already done- he's no help for info.

This kid Nick I am mentoring in racing is one heck of a fabricator and TIG welder. I will have him fab the brackets and tubing out of aluminum for me. He is finishing up my custom plenum I built a few years back and never finished duew to poor MIG aluminum welding on my part and the porosity it causes (aka- pinhole leaks)

 

I have a very poorly scanned and faxed (to me) article from July 1988 Hot Rod Magazine showing a "SMOG LEGAL" Paxton Supercharger setup for both the V8 TPI AND the 2.8 60*V6 MAF cars

If anyone happens to have an old July 1988 issue they could scan and give me a better copy of the literature that would be extremely helpful- Or even an old issue I could buy off them.

This seems too good to be true. (I am jiggling in my seat like a 3 year old.)

 

I search C.A.R.B. for the Executive order # (EO#) and it is:

D-195-13

{part #1100901-2 1985-1987 CHEVROLET 2.8 LITER PASSENGER CAR W/ NOVI/GSS May require removal of factory air cleaner Supercharger for domestic and import vehicles that are not equipped with an on-board-diagnostics II (OBD II) system.}

The Novi/Gss is no longer made so I am assuming that I had to replace the old worn out NoviGSS with the Novi1000 unit since there is no gss still made for repair parts. Essentially it appears the Novi1000 is the updated version of the GSS. I am legally limited to 10psi of boost.

Looks like I can legally get 300hp out of this little 60*V6 after all.