Looking for a HIGHLY recommended machine shop for engine work in southern california.
SubscribeI have a friend who needs his L-98 bored and oil pan rails machined for a 3.800 stroke crank as well as O-ringing the block, decking, and line boring, drilling for splayed caps. This will be a supercharged short block so he is looking for someone very compitent in machining the block, balancing it and assembling the engine. My friend basically is building it like this 30 over with 383 crank with 3.800 stroke and 6.00 rods. Also what would be the absolute best piston to handle 12psi and possibly up to 15psi.
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My guy, Benson Machine, went to Idaho.
He has a CNC block machine and always had lots of 4bangers in there to ring the cylinders. for big boost.
Hes still doing machine work, just need to ship the block which suks.
He has a CNC block machine and always had lots of 4bangers in there to ring the cylinders. for big boost.
Hes still doing machine work, just need to ship the block which suks.
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Valley Engine & Machine in Fountain Valley did good work for me on a diesel engine I built for a tractor at camp. He was also doing some racing heads for Hemi motors when I took the parts in, so I think he is familier with speed work. He is more expensive than Don's guy, but Don's guy was so far back logged the last time I heard that it was taking a couple of months to get work out of his shop.
www.valleyengine.com
www.valleyengine.com
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There is Butler Racing, I think in Long Beach. Specializes in Pontiacs, probably does chevys too
Kevin91Z
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If you talk to Valley Engine, tell Rick that Kevin from Manley recommended you.
Kevin so you have done business with them before? And do you believe they are full compitent to build this shortblock. My friend bought a crank rods and main caps off of here and want to start building this motor since you said his stock internals wouldn't last long. He has decided on I believe world 23 degree heads but hasn't decided on a cam .... You thing a LT-4/LT-4 hotcam would be a good combination for this car?
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I have not had any work done by them, but they buy parts from me at Manley all the time.
I would recommend a Comp XFI268HR-113 over an LT4 HOT cam right now.
I would recommend a Comp XFI268HR-113 over an LT4 HOT cam right now.
And that cam is a roller and will promote a nice idle and work great with his procharger? and heads he wants. I told him to get down to 8.0 to 1 compression but piston might have to be sopecial ordered since his crank is a 3.800 stroke and he will be using 6.00 inch carillo rods. He says he is going to run the upper limits of boost on this vette. I think going 30 over with that crank and 6.00 rods it should get him like 394 inches if I did the math right.
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I don't know what the specs are on the various cams, but one thing to keep in mind is that when you are building a naturally aspirated engine to make horse power at higher rpms, you need more overlap between the exhaust valve closing and intake valve openning as well as more overlap between the start of the compression stroke and the intake valve closing in order to exhaust spent gases and fill the cylinder with a fresh charge. All of that changes when you introduce a blower. A blower will pressurize the cylinder and you need a higher lift on the cam to help it fill more completely, but if you have the sort of overlap that you would use with a naturally aspirated engine, you will be blowing unburned fuel/air mixture out the exhaust valve into the manifold. The result is loss of power, bad fuel economy, and difficulty passing smog.
In other words, when you build a blower motor, you want a cam ground specifically for a blower application. If the cam you choose is optimum for a naturally aspirated engine, it won't work very well for a blower application and vice versa.
In other words, when you build a blower motor, you want a cam ground specifically for a blower application. If the cam you choose is optimum for a naturally aspirated engine, it won't work very well for a blower application and vice versa.
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Ok, I didnt read where you had a blower on the car, and it was stroked. My mistake. As Russ said, you want a cam with a larger LSA so the exhaust valve is closed when the intake is open. I would go with the XFI280HR-113 then. It has more duration to work with the extra cubes, and has the 113 LSA to work with the blower. Also call up Comp's cam tech line and see what they say, if they would recommend this cam as well. There arent very many of us blown TPI cars here in SoCal that can give you the perfect cam.
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pettis performance in hesperia deos great work. perfromance machine in pomona is good as well. have used both with good results.
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Both of those are also Manley customers. 



