help!
ok i just bought my 85 ta about a month ago. besides an engine tune up, it really needs suspension overhaul. how hard would this be for me( self proclaimed weekend warrior and not the sharpest tool in the shed when it comes to these things) to do. what should i replace? or should i just ***** it and take it to a shop
:hail: :hail:

 

Funny you should ask. See my pics here and read my post.!! If you've ever turned a wrench, do it yourself. The only thing you should have to have a shop do is to remove and install new A-arm bushings and get it aligned afterwards. The only odd tools you will need is a 24mm socket or 2 of them, metric sockets 10-20 mm, and a spring compressor. Autozone or Pep Boys will rent them to you for a fully refundable deposit. You can do it!!

Hope this helps...

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/taramille...tos.yahoo.com/

 

eb: you should apply for a job with Chilton manuals .. excellent photos and notes.

 

Thank you...

AndyZ28 told me he'd kick my *** if I did a crappy job.

 

As far as overhauling a Third gen F-body suspension I would have to think they are one of the easiest suspensions to replace and maintenance. If you have a basic knowledge on how the suspension and tools work I would say go for it. Have fun. Oh yea expect it to take the weekend if its your first time and take your time and make sure you dont mess anything up it could cause you to wreck your car,so just be careful and do it right.

 

hey,
thanks for the info!. much appreciated:hail: :hail: i do most of the wrenching on my s-10 xtreme so i should be able to handle it, just on a limited budget and this ta isnt a daily driver so i wanna do it right.

 

Don't use cinder blocks to hold the dam car up. Makes me cringe just lookin at those pictures.

 

lol,
i noticed those blocks....doesnt look safe to me, i think i wont be doing that.

 

I'm in the middle of redoing my front suspension and its being a real PITA. Everything is fighting me every step of the way. I've had to deal with:

• cotter pins that simply broke off right at the bolt on both sides
• bushing sleaves that rusted solid to the bolts preventing them from coming out no matter how much I've slammed on them
• having to hacksaw the exposed part of the shaft on the upper strut mount then drill out the insides of the shaft in order to get that nut off
• a ball joint and bushings that simply don't want to be pressed in
• outer bearing sleaves that don't want to come out without a fight with each one for an hour
• bolts that are NOT reusable for the A-arms. THESE ARE A SPECIAL ORDER ITEM, NO DEALER NEAR ME STOCKS THEM, IT WILL TAKE DAYS TO GET THEM. TRUST ME, THE CAR IS A JACKSTAND QUEEN RIGHT NOW.
• the strut to spindle bolts are a major PITA to untorque. I actually SHEARED the head of one of these bolts (using a 6 foot torque arm of course - but thats what it will take!)
• plan on using another car for a couple days as it will be laid up on the jackstands for a while
• I planned on doing it in two days, its been 5 so far and will be at least another week
• an impact wrench would be a good thing to have, as is some kind of torch to heat some nuts up for ease of removal

The job is NOT easy and it will test your patience and determination. Unless you've got a car that was babied, kept in the garage, low miles, and has never seen salt, it will be a PAIN.

Just warning you.

 

Wow, that sucks. That's Jersey weather for you. I got my car up in Mass but suprisingly it's real clean underneath..no extensive rust or body rot as my pics show.

Good luck!!

 

lol,
jersey weather does suck

 

Thanks for the info on the front control arm bolts; I had planned on replacing (and anti-siezing the hell out of) all those bolts when I redo my suspension this summer. I better order 'em now, eh? I can't wait to see the price... for panhard rod bolts, the bolts were $1.50, the nuts were $5! Is that backwards or what?