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How hard to remove/install front & rear coils?

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Old Jul 11, 2002 | 11:12 AM
  #1  
68camaro's Avatar
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From: Lake Shasta, CA
How hard to remove/install front & rear coils?

Guys,
One of my friends has an 87 TA. She wants it lowered and we're just going to cut one coil from both front and both rear coils....I've cut a coil from the front coils on my 68 but it has a leaf spring rear. How tough is it to remove the front coils? Is it as straight forward as my 68? Or is it a little harder/easier? I would think it might actually be a little easier seeing as her TA has disk brakes and my 68 has drums but is there anything else that makes it tougher?
Now for the rear....I've never torn apart any coil spring rear suspensions....I'm guessing that I should cut from the top of the coil because of the progressive spring rate right? Is removal and installation of the rear coils as straight forward as the front or is there more to the rears?
Thanks a million,
Donnie
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Old Jul 11, 2002 | 11:49 AM
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ebmiller88's Avatar
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
It's fairly easy if you have all the tools and parts handy. Here's a couple links to my suspension rebuild in progress:

Front:
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/taramille...tos.yahoo.com/

Rear:
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/taramille...tos.yahoo.com/

The rear coils practically fall right out when you lower the rearend down. The fronts are obviously a bit harder. Follow a manual and my instructions and you'll be all set.

Ed
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Old Jul 11, 2002 | 01:13 PM
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urbman's Avatar
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From: Albuquerque NM
Just a suggestion
1 coil is a lot
I would go no more than 1/2 coil to start...

look at the little tags on the springs to get an idea as to what
you have... BZW etc

By making the spring shorter you will raise the spring
rate... You can go too far depending on the springs
you start with...

The other caution is that depending on the current compressed
height you can go too low ...
Instigating a bumb steer condition that could run a couple of
hundred to correct...

Just my .02
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Old Jul 11, 2002 | 04:52 PM
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68camaro's Avatar
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From: Lake Shasta, CA
Guys,
Thanks alot! Those pics/directions are awesome! Do I even have to take the rear drums apart to take the rear coils out?
We're just going to cut a full coil, that's how much I cut on my 68 with 300 lb/in springs and it lowered it about 2 inches....on the 87 TA will the fronts being cut a full coil lower the same as the rears being cut a full coil?
Thanks again,
Donnie
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Old Jul 11, 2002 | 05:14 PM
  #5  
68camaro's Avatar
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Is it literally that simple to remove/install the rear springs!? Just lower the rear end and they come right out? I mean, you don't have to remove any brake lines or ANYTHING else just put the frame on jack stands and lower the rear-end?
Donnie
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Old Jul 12, 2002 | 05:58 AM
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ebmiller88's Avatar
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Yup, that simple. Just keep an eye on the brake line just in case. And the drums have nothing to do with pulling springs out. Axles yes...springs no.

Ed
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Old Jul 12, 2002 | 03:24 PM
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BretD 88GTA's Avatar
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Originally posted by 68camaro
Is it literally that simple to remove/install the rear springs!? Just lower the rear end and they come right out? I mean, you don't have to remove any brake lines or ANYTHING else just put the frame on jack stands and lower the rear-end?
Donnie
Just unbolt the shocks at the axle, and slowly lower the rear end till the springs go loose. They'll come right out.

I'd be cautious cutting the coils. If you go 1 coil in front, I'd start with half a coil in the rear. Since they come out so easily you can easliy keep nipping the rears till the car sits the way you want it.
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Old Jul 12, 2002 | 05:50 PM
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68camaro's Avatar
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From: Lake Shasta, CA
Thanks alot guys!

So, do I have to remove the rear axles to get the springs out? If yes, why?
How can I cut 1/2 coil from a spring? Then how will the ends still line up in the little pockets on the top and bottom?
Thanks again,
Donnie
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Old Jul 12, 2002 | 06:30 PM
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BretD 88GTA's Avatar
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From: Woodland Hills, CA USA
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Originally posted by 68camaro
Thanks alot guys!

So, do I have to remove the rear axles to get the springs out? If yes, why?
How can I cut 1/2 coil from a spring? Then how will the ends still line up in the little pockets on the top and bottom?
Thanks again,
Donnie
No, you don't have to remove the rear axles. Again, raise the rear of the car and simply unbolt the rear shocks at the axle. Then slowly lower the axle till you have enough clearance to remove the springs. It will take all of about 10 minutes to do.

As far as cutting off half a coil, they will still line up okay since the tops of the springs have a rubber isolator that sits on them. Line the isolator up correctly on the spring and you're fine. I'd also tape the isolators in place so they don't move while putting the springs back into the frame.
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Old Jul 12, 2002 | 08:28 PM
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From: CC, TX
Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
Transmission: 6 spd manual
Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
what about the fronts, how do you go about removing those?
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Old Jul 12, 2002 | 10:29 PM
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From: Winfield, IL USA
Brody...replacing the front is in the FAQ or Technical section. Boils down to put a jack under the a-arm. undo the top of strut, remove the bottom bolts and lower the a-arm to replace the spring....bingo bango.

btw...i just finished doing my rear and pulled my motor and tran, so tomorrow it's time to clean the pig and do the front springs and struts so i'll post if it's different. i have an 89 camaro.

just have a couple brews and take your time.
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Old Jul 13, 2002 | 05:40 AM
  #12  
REVLIMIT's Avatar
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From: Hawaii
Car: 1984 Chevy Camaro
Engine: Built L98
Transmission: T-56 6 speed
I takes me about 55 minutes or so to change both front and rear springs. But tahts with air tools. Dono how long it would take without them.
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Old Jul 13, 2002 | 05:42 PM
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From: Lake Shasta, CA
Thanks again everyone! My last question's are do I even have to take off the bottom spindle bolt and pop the ball joint? Or just the bottom strut bolts and the brake line?
And on the rear, do I have to disconnect the rear sway bar?
Thanks a million,
Donnie
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Old Jul 14, 2002 | 12:47 AM
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BretD 88GTA's Avatar
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From: Woodland Hills, CA USA
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Originally posted by 68camaro
Thanks again everyone! My last question's are do I even have to take off the bottom spindle bolt and pop the ball joint? Or just the bottom strut bolts and the brake line?
And on the rear, do I have to disconnect the rear sway bar?
Thanks a million,
Donnie
Your gonna get different answers on this, but my preference is pop the balljoint. It's easier and you don't have to mess with the brake lines.
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Old Jul 14, 2002 | 05:13 AM
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
(deleted)

Last edited by ebmiller88; Jul 14, 2002 at 02:22 PM.
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Old Jul 14, 2002 | 05:13 AM
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Taking the rear sway bar loose would make it easier. You could also replace the end links while you have it apart. I agree with Bret...just pop the ball joint and you won't have as much to take apart. Just loosen the ball joint nut a few threads and give it a few good whacks with a hammer and it should pop loose.

Ed
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Old Jul 14, 2002 | 12:23 PM
  #17  
Matthew91-Z28's Avatar
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From: Texas
Car: 1991 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 with Eaton posi
Spring removal installation

Man..glad i found this topic today. I planned on installing eibach springs, gas-struts, and shocks on my 91 yesterday. It was all a no-brainer until I got to the springs. I rented a crappy spring compressor from O-Reilly's and could not get it to tighten very well. It seemed like it kept slipping down the coils as I tightened it. So I tried to just lower the control arm (with struts off and calipers out of the way).....with a floor jack I had beneathe it. I had the body supported with jack stands under the door sills. Maybe I did not have enough clearance because even after I lowered the control arm all the way to the cement, that spring would not come out. I did not want to pull it because I was afraid of it popping out with alot of force.

Haynes says to leave the struts attached, support the control arm and unbolt the control arm at the cross-member, then pull the bolts and let it down that way. I was too tired and frustrated to try it that way last night.

Any opinions/ help?
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Old Jul 14, 2002 | 02:23 PM
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ebmiller88's Avatar
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Look here:

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/taramille...tos.yahoo.com/

Ed
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