I'm interested in what people have to say about S&W suspension stuff. My car club has started a GP on it and I don't know whether I should buy in on it. Does anyone know anything or have any of there stuff?

The link for the post is here:

http://www.mnfbody.com/cgi-bin/ultim...c&f=1&t=001236

What do ya think? Please let me know. I think I may get there SFCs just because they look so much better then the ones I've seen on the market right now.

-Mike

 

I wouldn't buy from them. First off their products are over priced, and the quality looks poor. They look like solid components that fit like stock. Hell you might as well just box your stock LCA's, they'd be just as good, and cost you about $6 bucks if you welded them yourself. Look at Spohns and compare price vs versatility. The cross member is a bolt in unit. I don't know how many times people on this board were told that you don't go with bolt in units, especially on a major piece like this. The body is constantly flexing, the main objective is to eliminate it, but by installing bolt-in components eventually the stress of the frame wanting to flex will elongate the holes and your right back where you started from. Take a look at some of the other manufacturers for 3rd gens that are out there such as Spohn, global west, or kenny brown, and compare there quality to these. The only thing I can see that might be on some good is the cross member unit if it were welded on, and even at that the only good it will do is lower the weight.

 

I was planning on welding the SFCs onto my car as well as bolting it on. That would definately hold everything together nicely I think. As far as the LCAs and Panhard bar... whats so different from these compared to the Spohn ones? They're both tublar and made from steel with poly bushings. I guess I dont know what your getting at. Like I said though... there stuff must not be to bad because Spohn sells there roll cages himself so... I dont know.

-Mike

 

I wouldn't recommend that Panhard Bar.

Only one end is threaded. To adjust it, you'll have to remove one end from the car, turn it, put it back in the car and check the rearend alignment. Then repeat the procedure till you get it right. You also won't be able to "fine tune" it. Plus, once you've adjusted the PHB and it's no longer the same lenght as stock, you'll need a buddy to push on the side of the car to get the bar lined up in the mount. A big PITA if you ask me.

The Spohn PHB is threaded on both ends. On car adjustment is very easy and can be done in small increments if necessary.

 

i haven't used their suspension parts but i do have their 8 point cage. it fit great and they were really helpful when i asked a couple of questions

 

So you like the roll cage eh? They're giving us a deal on those to... I was thinking about getting an 8 pt. with the swing out option. Did you get that?

-Mike

 

S & W Race cars is right up the road from me...

They have a superb reputation, and deserve it...

They started out as a small "mom & pop" shop, and gradually grew into to fine company they are today...

Everything I've gotten from them is top quality...

I've only ever had one issue with them, and it was resolved right away, and without hassle...

They made me a driveshaft for my 1200hp drag car, and when I took it to the balance shop, the shop owner said it had too much runout to balance...
(S&W doesn't have a driveshaft balancer)

They made me another driveshaft right there on the spot while I waited, "no questions asked"...



The entire front subframe assembly and back half in my '70 came from S&W, including all the suspension, (front and rear), parachute mount, complete rollcage, lexan, etc...

I've spent THOUSANDS of dollars there, and know several guys there on a first name basis...

People with a negative opinion, and who don't actually OWN ANYTHING from them should keep thier mouths shut...



Forgot to mention, they also have a water-jet cutter in house...

This enables them to cut EXTREMELY accurate patterns...
(Like a backbrace for a 9" housing, or subframe connectors to follow a screwy floor shape)

No heat or distortion of the metal when it's cut...
It'll cut damn near anything you want, as long as they can program the machine, and fit the work on the table...

 

Why would you want to "fine tune" it, or change it's length after it's adjusted ?

Once it's in and adjusted there is NO reason to change it's length...

Did you ever own a car with double adjustable ladder bars, or a lateral link with threaded adjusters at both ends ???

No matter how tight you make them, they ALWAYS work loose on the street...

A panhard bar with threads at only one end is really smart in my opinion, it'll NEVER come loose...

Just plain common sense...

 

Thanks for the info man!! Thats exactly what I was waiting for someone that has delt with them a few times and owns there stuff and has experiance with it. Your opinion here is worth a bunch in my mind.

-Mike

 

Like I said, they are "good people"...

The prices could be a little better, but you are paying for parts which are made on jigs and fixtures by hand...

They do things in this shop by hand the old fashioned way, not with high volume automated machines...

The packaging is also done by hand...

They still build complete rail jobs, super-comp, and pro-street cars in house too...

Building back-half kits, is what they do the most of...

They cater more to the full time dragracer, than to the "weekend warrior"...

Only in the past few years did they start selling the nickel & dime add-ons for street cars...

They have definately grown and changed in the 10+ years I've been buying from them...

 

You are right, ONCE IT'S ADJUSTED, then you're fine. Problem is, when you first intsall it you have no idea how much adjustment it will need. Typically you set it to match the stock PHB. But if you've lowered the car, the PHB needs to be adjusted to bring the rearend back into alignment.

With only one end threaded, adjustment is a little more involved. Not a crisis or anything, but you'll probably have to unbolt one end of the PHB a few times till you get it right. Also, you'll only be able to turn the bar either a 1/2 or a full turn at a time. Nothing in beteween. Last, once you've changed the length of the bar, the holes aren't gonna line up and you'll need someone to push against one side of the car to help line things up and get the bolt back in.

I like that with my Spohn arm I can adjust it without unbolting anything and I can turn it 1/8, 1/4, 3/4, whatever I want, to line up the rearend. My Spohn arm has never come loose either.

I'm sure the S&W bar is fine. Hotchkis uses the same design. I just prefer the Spohn PHB.

 

Have a buddy push on the car?! Why don't you just put the car on stands and jack up the rear until the bar lines up?

 

Hey, whatever works. There's no right or wrong answer.

 

True, but how'd you fit under the car? I can't even get my jack under it in most spots. It does ride a little lower than stock though.

 

i didn't get the swing out option, i might later. for now i left out the door bars and its just a 6 point now. i brother ordered one for his 71 , it fit great also.

 

What are you talking about? They are both tubular units with poly ends (if you are comparing the poly ended Spohn ones anyways).... Pretty much the same exact thing if you ask me . And ditto on what was said about comments from people that have never bought a thing from them....... Hold it down if you don't know.

Ummm..... you do realize that the entire front suspension is bolted onto the subframe of the car, right?

Have you ever even ridden in a car with bolt in SFCs? Elongate Holes!!?? Good theory anyways....... Highly likely if you leave your brain in the house while installing them.

And lets keep in mind that the SFC assembly can easily be welded into place if you are that concerned with it......

Elongated holes......... HA! Better be throwin down some stupid 60' times or lateral Gs to do that!