I was thinkin about getting these rotors. Anyone have them from JC whitney? I never really ordered anything from them so i don't know how there stuff is. Will these rotors make a difference that i can feel or they just pretty much for looks! $64.95 each seems pretty cheap for them!! Should i replace the pads too or can i still use my other ones cuz there in pretty good shape!! Any other input would be great! thanks guys!

 

http://www.z28racer.cz28.com/brakes

Some pics of the ones I got from autozone, 101 each front and like 88 each rear.

 

This subject has been discussed endlessly.

Here are some links to previous post I found by doing a quick search;

Hhttps://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php?s=&threadid=59173&highlight=drilled+and+slotted+rotors


https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...slotted+rotors

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...slotted+rotors

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...slotted+rotors

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...slotted+rotors

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...slotted+rotors

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...slotted+rotors

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...slotted+rotors

Reading these may help you make your decision.

Thanx,ANDYZ28

 

JC Whitney! They are not that great, steer away from them. Jeggs or Summit is the way to go if you do not want to deal with a manufacturer. I purchased a set of louvers for my 86 iroc and it said ABS plastic, well, $200 later when it came to my door, it was a piece of junk! It was not even close to the same plastic in our dash boards, it was ****y to say the least! The 3 pieces did not even line up right either. I quickly returned them for a full refund. Then later that month i was cleaning my room and found the hardware! Pretty funny how they did not even question why the hardware was missing. They really suck! They have a lot of junk parts and the prices on the Brand named performance parts are nothing to get crazy over! I am not going to comment on the brakes since the links above would help you out a lot! good luck

 

Everybody sells some junk, you just have to do a little research. In the case of the JC Whitney drilled and slotted rotors, we put them on Redraif's car over the winter and they are doing fine. They are made in Canada (hopefully better than offshore imports). I have heard all the horror stories about cracking of drilled rotors, but there is no sign of cracking on hers and she doesn't exactly drive it easy, either! She lives on a very curvy road and drives it pretty aggressively. I wouldn't use them for road racing (you'd need 1LE or Baer or soemthing similar), but for a street car they should be fine. Better than a stock rotor? If so, its not noticeable, but they do look cool on it!

 

Haven't had any problems with JC Whitney drilled and slotted rotors

 

Well, I would have to say that you are better off without the cross-drilled part. The slots function better than the cross-drilling and they remove less mass from the rotor. But if you are just driving on the street and don't plan on wringing it out on the road course, you won't feel any difference with just a rotor design change no matter what it is. You would probably be much more impressed with a fully bled brake system and more aggressive pads if you drive hard on the street.....

I'll give you some info from my experience with this subject from my recent Road Racing adventure.

I have the Raybestos Brute Stop drilled and slotted rotors on the front of mine. I usually run plain OEM style pads on mine for the street (nice and quiet) and I installed a set of the Brute Stop pads when I took my car around Brainerd International Raceway recently. I also have a fourth gen rear with the 11.9" rear discs and the PBR calipers.

So I figured I would have some alright brakes but nothing special..... Well they worked quite well for the first half of the day doing short 5-6 lap sessions (it's a 3 mile long track), but I had some problems towards the end of the day. However, I must admit that I started braking much later and heavier later in the day as I got more confident in mine and the car's abilities.

The first thing that happened was the crossdrilling holes filled with pad material.... I mean they were totally full inside and out with pad.... This could likely have been avoided with a more aggressive pad, but nevertheless, the drilling became a liability.

The next thing that happened was I boiled the fluid in the rear brakes. This was completely brand new, night-before-I-raced-bled, Wilwood 570* fluid as well. This is likely because I never addressed the proportioning valve issue with the larger and more effective rear brakes I have now. I still have the stock valve in my car that was designed for those POS early model thirdgen rear discs......

Most of the seriously fast guys with big brake kits run either solid rotors or just slotted ones. The drilling is pretty much all for looks from what I have gathered - which is not what I had previously thought. The slotting is effective at allowing the gasses emitted from the pad material during hard brake application and, to a smaller degree heat, to be dissipated.

My plans to remedy these problems are to get a big brake kit from Wilwood for the front of my car. I have looked at the one that Summit offers (pretty good deal btw), but I want to get a larger diameter rotor. So I am going to work with a freind of mine on designing a 12" or 13" setup that will take the Wilwood four piston calipers (not sure which ones yet....). The better front brakes may give me a better balance of brake, but I expect that an adjustable proportioning valve will also find its way onto my car. I think the rear brakes will be just fine for my car for the time being. Oh, and I will not be going with drilled rotors if I can help it with the Wilwood kit.

 

Good points...I would never recommend drilled rotors for a car being used like yours. They are, admittedly, just for looks, since the advent of slotting. I agree with you about the value of bleeding, and esp flushing the brake system. How many of you have never changed your brake fluid? You would be amazed at the crap that will come out of your brake lines, even on a relatively new car. When we did the suspension and brakes on Redraif's car, we replaced her brake fluid with the Ford Heavy Duty stuff (always heard it was the best for street driven cars), and it did seem to make a big difference in pedal fee and the way the brakes reacted.

 

Thanks guys for all the info! I think i'll skip this for now and think of something else to get!!

 

Matt, Your using the wrong pads for drilled or slooted rotors. The performance pads intended to be used with drilled rotors are a Metal-Matrix compound and will not gunk the holes. Also they have a better initial bite and maintain a broader sweet spot when combined with drilled or slotted rotors, otherwise they will gas at higher temps and float on the rotors.

Some people have argued with me that drilled rotors are purely cosmetic and have quoted such statements from specific brake companies. The companies that the quote from do not offer carbon-matrix or metal- matrix compound pads so their drilled rotors are intirely for cosmetic reasons when combined with the type of pad compound they offer.

In conclusion, for drilled rotors to have any performance improvement, they have to be combined with the correct compound of brake pad. Metal-matrix pads used with stock rotors will show a little improvement, but not near the higher pressure sweet spot you will attain when they are combined properly with drilled or slotted rotors. You will be able to lay harder pressure on the pedalbe fore they will lock, pedal pressure that stock rotors and pads would have easily locked at before the upgrade.

 

Well, I do agree that the pads were hardly the kind of pad I would have used if I had more funds available, and better pads would help, but the Brute Stop pad is a carbon metallic pad and I already had them on hand so I threw them in there.... I certainly wasn't expecting anything extraordinary, but was actually pretty impressed with their feel for a cheap pad. They definately did not exhibit premature locking and had *OK* pedal feel (Sort-of.........hard to say with the hole-filling problem and the fluid boiling when I started to push the car). I would get some more aggressive pads and see how they worked with these rotors, but I hope to have something much better for front brakes in the very near future .

Also, FYI for ya'll..... The specs on the Wilwood 570* stuff and the Ford HD stuff are identical.... The Ford stuff is a bit cheaper as well if I remember correctly, so you know what to do . Either one is much better than regular DOT 4 or even synthetic DOT 4 which usually has around a 500* dry boiling point. Wilwood also has a 620* dry boiling point fluid and Castrol's SRF is even higher than that (around 800* IIRC). There are lots of other ones that are even higher but tend to get extremely expensive.

 

All's I have to say is that when it comes to rotors; looks are not anywhere near the top of my list when it comes to decision making.

Good choice in skipping them. I always laugh at imports with crossdrilled or slotted rotors. Like it really takes that much stopping power to stop a 2000 lbs car w/ 140 hp. And besides, it's overkill for even most of the cars on here unless you autocross or something like that.

 

And whats wrong with overkill????

 

I just installed a set of the drilled and slotted front rotors from JC last weekend. So far so good. The car stops well for a third gen, but I also bought a set of new calipers and flushed the fluid. I still haven't put enough miles on them to really get on them yet. It's too bad our rotors sit so deep behind the wheel. It's hard to see them.

I've ordered many misc items from JC and haven't been dissapointed yet. Sure most of the stuff they sell is lower quality, but their prices are very good. You get what you pay for.

BTW- Their "titanium" TI pads look awefully similar to the ones that came with the Napa calipers I bought. I'm gonna send them back then we'll see how well they handle returns.