I already searched the archives and didn't find anything useful. I have an old Hurst line lock with the standard ends (double flare, I believe). My IROC uses the stupid metric brake lines with the bubble flare. As far as I know, they don't make any sort of adaptor to convert from the male bubble flare to the female double flare. If they did, I would need three of these adaptors (refer to my diagram). Now, would I be able to cut the bubble flare off and make male double flares on each end at locations 1 and 2 on the diagram? Would I have to run new brake lines?

 

I had that problem on my car also. It's just about impossible to make a bubble flare. There are adaptor fittings out there but they're hard to find and expensive. What I ended up doing was cutting one end off the metric line and converting it to a double flare fitting. It's not 100% accurate but so far it hasn't leaked.

 

i used a hurst line loc and hurst install kit, i think the kit was a waste of money, but anyway i beleive i got everything i neede from auto zone. if not them then another local store, just used adapters from the hurst parts to the camaro lines. i replaced some lines too since they didn't really run where i wanted to mount it at.

 

I have the adapers you need, they're $5.00 each.

Steve

 

The only place I've seen the ISO bubble flare tool available is from http://www.eastwoodcompany.com , for $60. Kinda pricey! You can also find pre-flared line at auto stores- I found mine at Pep Boys! It's labeled "foreign car brake lines"... apparently nobody told them that american cars use metric lines! I forget the spec for the fittings, 10mmx1mm maybe? But bring a line, or the linelock, with you to get the right fitting.

Buy a long length of the tubing, cut it in half with a tubing cutter. Now use a rented double-flare tool (Pep Boys rents, I assume Autozone and similar places do, too) to give the other side a regular SAE double flare. This will give you two equal lengths of tubing, each with one metric (ISO bubble) flare and one standard (SAE double) flare.

 

TomP, I guess the new brake line has to be as long as the stock line, right? Does it have to be in the same arrangement (with the little loops, etc) or can it be in any form, as long as it's the same length? Maybe this won't be as hard as I'm thinking.

 

snap on has it close to 100 dollars, even more pricey and from what i hear it's real damn hard to make a good flare with one.

 

I did the same thing as TomP and made two new front brake lines with the metric bubble on one end and SAE double flare on the other. I had to use one male bubble to female double flare adapter to make the plug you show on the factory proportioning valve (I could only find a plug in double flare). I don't think it matters if the two front lines are the same length. Once you fill the lines with a column of incompressible fluid, I can't see where it would make a difference. Maybe some of you guys can correct me if this is wrong.
Another thing I noticed about your diagram was the use of a tee after the line loc. I used a new Hurst line loc and it had three outlet ports on the body of the line loc itself. I used two of these and plugged the third one. Do the older versions only have one outlet port? If so, then a tee is definitely required.

 

Yes, the one that I have is probably about 25 years old... it works great but only has one outlet port.

 

I hear the "loops" in the brake lines act as "springs", to help cushion any impacts on the brake lines from the suspension. I agree w/Greg, as long as the system's bled out, I doubt you need equal length tubing. If that were the case, there'd be a big coil of extra tubing on the driver's side! Ede, what does it look like? I'm not sure where my snap on catalog went. Does it look like a regular double flare tool?

Who would've figured that a tiny little steel tube would be so hard to find with metric fittings! It's freakin' ridiculous!

Hey how are those line locks on the street? I know race situations (high heat/vibration) are different than street situations(high heat, cold, weather)? I've always wanted to use a line lock with an MSD 2-stage rpm limiter, but worry about the line lock blowing out somehow due to corrosion.