if sfc are #1 whats #2?
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Ky
Car: 89 camaro w/t-tops
Engine: lo3
if sfc are #1 whats #2?
Like I said...if the sfc are the #1 suspension mod what should be #2 on the list?I'm talking about planting the rear to max advantage.Lca's?Torque bars?Something else?
The following would be good supension/ handling upgrades:
1) SFC
2) STB
3) Rear LCA with the LCA brackets optional
4) Pandhard Bar
These would be basic upgrade for a good STREET driven car.
I have all of the above.
1) SFC
2) STB
3) Rear LCA with the LCA brackets optional
4) Pandhard Bar
These would be basic upgrade for a good STREET driven car.
I have all of the above.
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Ky
Car: 89 camaro w/t-tops
Engine: lo3
Here's a semi-related follow-up question.I had to replace a brakeline yesterday.I had the rs up for about 3 hrs.That was long enough to put the frame in a bind.Now the windows squeeking and exhaust rattles a little.How long until it should settle out again?Should I wait for it to settle before doing the sfc?I have t-tops btw.
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
I would say brackets with LCAs also. My car was greatly changed after I did SFC, Brackets, and LCAs. I went from massive tire spin to a very little chirp.
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From: Mostly in water off So. Cal
Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Re: if sfc are #1 whats #2?
Originally posted by ponykiller
Like I said...if the sfc are the #1 suspension mod what should be #2 on the list?I'm talking about planting the rear to max advantage.Lca's?Torque bars?Something else?
Like I said...if the sfc are the #1 suspension mod what should be #2 on the list?I'm talking about planting the rear to max advantage.Lca's?Torque bars?Something else?
Last edited by AGood2.8; Mar 30, 2003 at 09:41 AM.
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iTrader: (8)
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
good point... I know my tq arm mount looks pretty bad... hehe it's 13 years old not to mention the actual way the tq arm looks. I'm planning on going to a spohn tq arm after my latest project gets done (8 pt roll bar).....
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Ky
Car: 89 camaro w/t-tops
Engine: lo3
So what about the follow up question?Should I wait for the frame to resettle before putting in sfc?How long will the resettling take?I was planning on the sfc within the next week or two.
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
I have no clue about waiting for it to resettle. I did mine right after someone ran me off the road... State Farm paid for a bunch of stuff, including an alignment and a check which I used to buy my spohn SFCs.
I know an alignment job is always a good idea before putting on a STB I remember someone did one and then had it aligned they had to slot the holes for the brackets on the strut towers.
I'm no expert but I really don't see what the problem of putting a SFC on would be.
Just wondering, What SFCs did you decide to go with?
I know an alignment job is always a good idea before putting on a STB I remember someone did one and then had it aligned they had to slot the holes for the brackets on the strut towers.
I'm no expert but I really don't see what the problem of putting a SFC on would be.
Just wondering, What SFCs did you decide to go with?
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Ky
Car: 89 camaro w/t-tops
Engine: lo3
After researching for months I decided to use Spohn sfc and will probably use Spohn for the other suspension upgrades as well.
My worry about settling is that I didnt want the sfc put on and give me a permanent twist, know what I mean?Never crossed my mind to get alignment done first...good idea.Im getting ready to do complete exhaust (headders back) and was going to have the shop weld the sfc in at the same time.Before anyone ask, no I dont know how much install will cost, he was supposed to get me a price but hasnt called me yet.
Thanks for the replys guys!
My worry about settling is that I didnt want the sfc put on and give me a permanent twist, know what I mean?Never crossed my mind to get alignment done first...good idea.Im getting ready to do complete exhaust (headders back) and was going to have the shop weld the sfc in at the same time.Before anyone ask, no I dont know how much install will cost, he was supposed to get me a price but hasnt called me yet.
Thanks for the replys guys!
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
Make sure the shop takes into consideration where the Cats go under the passenger side. I know for a fact I couldn't put the SFC to trans tunnel brace on the passenger side due to no room between the duel cats to the sheet metal floor. The driver side one went on though.
Just so they don't drop the exhaust put the SFCs and bars on and then the exhaust (Cats) won't fit back cause of the bar in the way... hehe that could be bad. Just have them check for clearence and it should be ok.
Also they might have to cut out a little for the front bolt on the SFC itself... it talks about that in the instructions.
I paid somewhere from 140 to 160 for SFCs, brackets, and lcas all installed at a welding shop... and they had to drop the exhaust too from what they said.
Just so they don't drop the exhaust put the SFCs and bars on and then the exhaust (Cats) won't fit back cause of the bar in the way... hehe that could be bad. Just have them check for clearence and it should be ok.
Also they might have to cut out a little for the front bolt on the SFC itself... it talks about that in the instructions.
I paid somewhere from 140 to 160 for SFCs, brackets, and lcas all installed at a welding shop... and they had to drop the exhaust too from what they said.
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Joined: Feb 2003
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From: NJ fo0
Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
Transmission: T-5
anyone have diagrams of where all these SFC's STB's LCA's and the likes are? im trying to understand what they all do but i dont even know where they all are
Last edited by Trans_AM_88; Mar 30, 2003 at 08:49 PM.
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
SFC= sub frame connectors
They go on the sides of the car unibody. There two pieces of long metal that go on the under side of the car along where the doors go. This stiffens up the body and helps create a full frame like design.
STB= strut tower brace
This goes under the hood. They connect on top of each fender usually just on brackets with a a straight metal bar going across the engine bay. This would be a 2 point brace. Three point braces are like the 2 points but they also make another mounting point off the straight bar up to the windshield cowl area.
Helps reduce body roll and improves handling in corners.
LCAs= lower control arms
These go under the car back by the rear end. They hook up by the shocks. There just a bar with 2 places to put bolts... one on each end. The front bolt hole connects to the body. The rear bolt goes on the rear end. Reduces flex of stock lcas so they help increase traction.
Realocation Brackets
These go on the rear end axle tubes. They will lower the rear mounting point on the lcas. Help improve traction especially on lowered cars where the front of the lcas could be lower than the rear. This changes the rear mounting to lower again.
Panhard bar
This goes behind the rearend. Aftermarket ones are stronger and the adjustable ones are great for lowered cars. This helps improve cornering.
tq arm= torque arm
This connects the rear end to the transmission. Some aftermarket kits move the mounting point on the transmission to a crossmember. This helps improve sidebite in corning and the nose dive felt during braking.
Check out spohn
They go on the sides of the car unibody. There two pieces of long metal that go on the under side of the car along where the doors go. This stiffens up the body and helps create a full frame like design.
STB= strut tower brace
This goes under the hood. They connect on top of each fender usually just on brackets with a a straight metal bar going across the engine bay. This would be a 2 point brace. Three point braces are like the 2 points but they also make another mounting point off the straight bar up to the windshield cowl area.
Helps reduce body roll and improves handling in corners.
LCAs= lower control arms
These go under the car back by the rear end. They hook up by the shocks. There just a bar with 2 places to put bolts... one on each end. The front bolt hole connects to the body. The rear bolt goes on the rear end. Reduces flex of stock lcas so they help increase traction.
Realocation Brackets
These go on the rear end axle tubes. They will lower the rear mounting point on the lcas. Help improve traction especially on lowered cars where the front of the lcas could be lower than the rear. This changes the rear mounting to lower again.
Panhard bar
This goes behind the rearend. Aftermarket ones are stronger and the adjustable ones are great for lowered cars. This helps improve cornering.
tq arm= torque arm
This connects the rear end to the transmission. Some aftermarket kits move the mounting point on the transmission to a crossmember. This helps improve sidebite in corning and the nose dive felt during braking.
Check out spohn
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From: Dallas/Fort-Worth
Car: 1988 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI (L98)
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt 3.45
They are really easy to install. I would do a search and see if you can't find something.
Another note:
Another good thing to do, if you don't have it, is the "wonder bar". I think IROC's and WS6 birds came with them, you would have to see if you have one. This tightens up the front end from flex. That same flex can cause the frame to crack and break apart where the steering box is connected.
Another note:
Another good thing to do, if you don't have it, is the "wonder bar". I think IROC's and WS6 birds came with them, you would have to see if you have one. This tightens up the front end from flex. That same flex can cause the frame to crack and break apart where the steering box is connected.
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
Actually yeah I do have some pictures of mine. I'll see if I can get them scanned in later tonight and posted. I know my 90 ws6 formula didn't have a wonderbar.
Yeah... I forgot that one...
Wonderbar
Mounts under the car. It's pretty much just a bar that goes between the front sway bar mounts and the frame. This helps strengthen up the front end horizontally. I just put a BMR one on they make a big improvement in cornering from what I could tell... only drove it about 3 miles then pulled back in the garage to take the interior out.
Yeah... I forgot that one...
Wonderbar
Mounts under the car. It's pretty much just a bar that goes between the front sway bar mounts and the frame. This helps strengthen up the front end horizontally. I just put a BMR one on they make a big improvement in cornering from what I could tell... only drove it about 3 miles then pulled back in the garage to take the interior out.
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iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,204
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
stupid scanner isn't xp supported until I can figure that out guess pics are on hold
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iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,204
Likes: 7
From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
here's a pic of my spohn brackets, adj. lcas, and sfcs. Not the best pic in the world... I got another one of the passenger side but I seem to have miss placed it... hehe problems after problems
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iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,204
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
I painted the brackets to match. As you can see I have them set on the lowest of the 3 holes.
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