Finally put them back on after having them polished- They look like crap in bare aluminum.

Baer Bumpsteer pic, Koni's, Earls lines, Edelbrock 3pt STB, GlobalWest steering brace, quick ratio box, Stillen pads, Powerster front rotors slotted (I run Stillen drilled rotors on the rear, better initial bite and chassis control. Rears come on first that way but fronts binds harder when I lay on it), Solo-bleeds, ARP wheelstuds, Kyokugen lightweight sevensided lugnuts, 800#springs- lowered about 2". 24 3/4" from ground to fender lip.

Right side

looking good, i have been tossing around the idea of polishing mine, i have also though about powdercoating them also.

One advantage to stock mounts for street use is they flex over when stress in a corner acutually giving you more negative camber. For street use this is good, it allows you to run less camber for better straightline tire wear. I'm going to have a buddy of mine who owns an alignment shop set them at two different settings and I will scribe perminant marks in the fender sheetmetal for home placement. One for street use, one for track use.

yeah, i was trying to figure out an easy way to pull that adjustment off, you way may be doable, i was thinking of making a small insert for so i can easily just move them correctly, like a little template.

Yes, yes they do. Yours look great now! I am in the process of polishing mine and it is a PITA without the right tools. I really need to get a benchtop wheel, my dremel is far too small to polish the flat baseplate of these things. I really dont have a place to put one though. Maybe I could clamp it to the top of my computer desk?

Lookin' good!

wow awesome looking!

great job.

This things steering like a fighter jet, you touch the wheel in a direction and it goes without hesistation. Alittle on the twitchy side right now- Its going in for alignment 9am tomorrow and I'll put the new rubber on it in the afternoon. The rear end is way loose right now with the worn tires, but I think also i'll have tho raise my rear LCA mount points one notch to produce just a slight moreroll underteer in the rearend to hold it in place now that the front steers so quickly. I'll have fun working out the final tuning- I love that part of building a car- making it all go fast.

toe was out 9/32" hence the twitchiness. all is better now- All I can say is holly sh*t is this thing on rails, the new Goodyear F1GS-D3's are very predictable. I need better seats to hold my *** in place.

Other than looks, what performance upgrade do these mounts do for you? I really like the way they look but I want to make sure there are actual performance benefits before I got serious about them. Also, how much did you pay for them?

peformance gain is that is is MUCH sturdier than the factory unit, and has a spherical bearing, so no deflection. BUT as AGood2.8 pointed out . . .



as for the cost . . .


are you sitting down?









we paid over $300 for them, when i talked to Karl last, he said next one would probably be closer to $400. and it isn't a part you can just order online or call summit for, he made a limited production run of 20 units, it was supposed to be a 1 time only thing, but with enough people i bet karl would do it again, if the price is right.

I'm pretty sure "steering like a fighter jet" is a common result of installing these. I'll know for sure in a month or so

Scott

If you don't plan on running one of the top end tires on the car then it would be pointless to buy these. With a responsive tire turning into a corner, the tire turns and the stock upper mount flexes giving play or correction into ones driving. With these mounts (along with all the other goodies combined, can't be any weak links) make the car so responsive that when you turn the wheel there is no stress jiggle of the wheel when first entering the corner- just a nice very predictable turn-in entering and turn-out exiting- No bobble of the wheel for correction unless there is loss of traction.

Now put these on, but run crappy tires and you've wasted your money. It'll act the same because the tires will flex and show little hard corner response.

What is the difference between the the standard tierods and the BAER bumpblah version? From the picture they just seem to be a beefier version of the same thing.

the baer has an adjustment to make up for lowering the car, it lets you adjust it so that the tierod keeps the correct angle so when the a-arm moves the tie rod follows the correct arc, so it doesn't car 'bump steer'