BEFORE




AFTER




New Motor



:lala: :lala: :lala: :lala:

 

wooow nice.....

 

wow! excellent job, i never knew a tubular k-member was that small in size, so much room down there now, also must be easy to change engine mounts now.

 

which part is a tubular k member? and what does it do?

 

That is sweet man: both the engine and the car. (Interesting that there is a 6 out there you can get some alluminum heads for.) With both parts out of the car how much wieght did you figure you took off the front? And anyone suppose it is stiff enough to not use a strut tower brace?

 

There are quite a few 6's around with avail alum heads, if you do enough research you can easily get them even on our 2.8 / 3.1 cars.

Motor looks sick man, but you need some new steering linkage.

 

I don't know, maybe 100lbs or so? The biggest advantage is the space that it clears up.

Car went 11.20s with mid 1.5 60fts with the stock motor and and a few bolt ons. It doesn't have subframe connectors or a cage, but will get them soon.

Its a street car, I want to be able to drive this thing everywhere so nothing to crazy that will kill the ride

btw thats the PA racing K-memember with PA Control Arms and Coil over kit.

 

Wow; thanks for the pics! Nice to see this thing actually installed instead of talked about!

(laughs) Yeah, that linkage looks nasty now... especially the poor tie rod sleeves!

 

Your looking at a 10,000 Mile Car. Thats what time does...

 

hey nice set up


so the k member isnt just for drag racing you can use it on the street over some bumps So it wont bend.

 

Friend of mine put 8K miles on his car last year with that K-member. It better work on the street, Racecars suck. I plan to put 8-10K miles on my car this year. Drag Racing, Auto Xing and Road Racing.

 

looks great mike. who made the k-member? besides weight and space...do you notice any other improvement? i also like to auto cross and race and want any edge possible. did your front suspension specs change greatly? does it re-locate the a-arms for more caster?

 

That K-member is designed for drag racing so you'll be fine there.

AutoX and roadracing however are a different story. Do you realize the flex and geometry change that will be taking place under hard cornering with that unit? Its flimsy and in no way lateraly as strong as the stock unit- no it most likely wont break but again it will flex severely enough to be less effective in corners.

If that weren't the case, I would have bought one already long ago.

Motor looks great- Lots of Grand National goodies

 

http://www.thunderracing.com/index.c...ategoryid=1141

 

Roadtechs prototype was much better/strong design.(I say "was" because he sold the business and went into a corporate position somewhere else before this design was ever produced). Note the use of massive gussets to strenghten and elimate flex entirely.

 

I am not even going to get into the debate about which one is better stronger etc. I think there was already a flame thread about that


The car is going to primarily be drag raced but I would like to go to an Auto X 2 or 3 times a year. I haven't tried road racing but would love too We'll see how it goes. I just wanna have fun with it on the street mostly and hit the drags once a week. Its not going to be a serious racecar, just a fun street car that I hope does everything well

I can't tell you how it drives, I still have lots to do.

Ordered the FAST unit a few days ago and need to choose injectors I still need to order a 12 Bolt and have a driveshaft made as well as pick a convertor.. bleh still lots to do.


I need to ditch my LS1 while I am at it. :lala: :lala: :lala:

 

blah blah blah....would shoulda coulda road tech

If you call up jason or vernon i believe that they were offering (at least when i bought mine a while ago) that they could build in some extra bracing for people who wanted to go X-racing and it was a problem

 

I've decided to stick with the stock Cross-Member and make my own extra bracing. Very nice TTA!!! One of the nicest ones I've seen ... ever!

 

The strength issue isnt that bad Imho. What you are fighting is camber loss in turns, and I dont think that you lose a whole lot through the Lca flexing, because it would have to pulled out in turns as upposed to pushed in where the flex is. PLUS your gonna lose so much more camber though the lose fenders at the strut mount, and you can make bracing for it all if you wanted to.

I think also alot to be said for lightening up the front, although the TTA is extremely light with the alluminum headed 6. Tube are much higher strength to wieght, which is the point of the K-member.

Plus it is too damn trick

 

I am pretty sure that a Stock Iron headed V6 with turbo and IC is about the same wieght as a TPI motor.

 

Hard to believe. But I suppose...

 

i noticed your car has t-tops...how are the body lines
i cant beleive you havent put in a set of SFC's


my buddy had an 89 t-top car....i told him many times to get a set and he ended up popin both his tops on a launch and effectivly twisted his car to the point were both doors wouldnt open and the hatch holddown blew apart...

you say you plan to but it should of been the first $250 you spent bud...

 

If you aggressively Auto-X or Road Race with that crossmember then you'll destroy your car. That crossmember is not strong enough for those types of forces. Launching vertically is totally different than the lateral forces of Road Racing. It might not happen the first or second time. But, it will only be a matter of time ... especially with the increase in aggressiveness once you are comfortable with road racing. I'm just mentioning this because I'd hate to see you wreck that TTA.

Tim

 

so in other words the tubular K members arent really strong enough for street driving (I like to carve corners and stuff, there are pot holes and bumps around here to) would i have trouble with it?

 

That's not necessarily what I am saying. If you are serious about Road Racing or Auto-X then you will be running a very sticky tire ... not a street tire. The g-force you can pull with some RR tires is intense. You won't experience this type of lateral load on the street ... unless you are running RR tires on the street and and take hairpin turns at 85mph.

FWIW - the only thing holding those a-arms to the PA crossmember is 4 tabs. I could go on about the design but I won't. PA makes great products. It's the application that is in question here. I'd use if for Drag Racing and the Street. But, RR'ing is a different beast entirely. Want proof? How come they offer extra reinforcement for those that WANT to use their stuff for RR'ing? Also ask yourself the question as to how many of their people RR as compared to Drag Race.

Tim