Anyone in here have these? How did you go about adjusting them? When I received mine, a couple of the rod ends were loose and I am not quite sure about how go about setting them up correctly.

 

Are you running a coilover front setup as well? If not then the rod end adjustment can not be used. If the rodd ends are not adjusted close to the matched length of the stock A-arm then the springs will rub against the side of the cans.

 

I am running a coilover and the "cans" have been removed and plated in.

 

O.K. Then- thats great.

Now what are you setting it up for- Drag racing, slalom, or everyday street use?

 

Full drag car. No street duty whatsoever.

 

If its full drag then you'll want to retain 0* camber but will want to be able to acheive lots of + caster for straight line tracking, especially for high speed stability.

Here's what you do-
Match the new arms to the same exact distance as your stock arms- this is for a starting point reference.
Thie is easiest done with a tape measure from the balljoint to each outside ear mount (hint: if you have a metal rod that is long enough to go through both ear mounts, then insert it and measure from the balljoint to the rod at the outside of each mount- basically the center of the bolt hole on the outside edges)

Now with the rod inserted into the new arm AND the rodend spacers properly installed in their positions, match the same measurements (note: the rod going through both mounts will maitain the correct angle of the rodend mounts for measuring purposes)

Once that is set to stock setting- you can now adjust things to your benefit.

On a full drag setup, your best setting is to shorten the front distance and lengthen the rear distance. So basically turn the front rodend inward about 1/16" to 1/8" and then turn the rear rodend out the same (note: too much and the front tire will move forward too much in the wheel well. this can cause the tire to rub while turning.

Now what you are doing by this setting is you are retaining the stock outward distance of the balljoint (camber) but are moving the balljoint position forward thus giving you more caster adjustment with the upper strut mount position.

You will, no matter what you do, still have to take it in for a professional alignment after things are installed- but at least this will be adjusted in you favor so the alignment mechanic will not have to disasemble things to reset them (and charge you for it)

 

Thanks for the help. There is one problem though. I don't have the stock a-arms. Can anyone out there supply the measurements that is needed? I maybe screwed on this one.

 

Can anybody help??

 

Ok, I scored a right side control arm. Measurements should be the same on both sides wouldn't you think?

 

yes, I would definately set both sides equal.

Its best you found one yourself to measure. Having someone else give you measurements is not an accurate thing to do- you just dont know were they measured from exactly and you could be a 1/4" off- best to do it yourself.

Good luck, Dean

 

The arms are not the same the ball joint is forward on each side by about 3/8 of an inch. ( if you make 2 right side arms and than install one on the left side the wheel will be about 3/4 of an inch back.)

Jerry

 

To clear things up- I meant: set each sides balljoint-to-frontear distances the same and each balljoint-to-rearear the same on both arms.

Of course both side arms will not flipflop from right to left and left to right- they would not line up properly

 

Thanks for all the help.<img src="http://www.emotipad.com/emoticons/Cheers.gif">

 

has any one made a set of these?looking for a cheaper way to get a set of these.