Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

Best plug and play performance brakes on the market?

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Old Jun 6, 2003 | 04:08 PM
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Jstcrzyengh's Avatar
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From: California
Car: 1988 Camaro Convertible
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4
Best plug and play performance brakes on the market?

Did a lot of searching, but most I could find were a lot of talk about doing some major modifications to try to get C5 brakes in the front and Ls1 brakes in the back, etc... etc.. I was looking for a performance system for front and back that is "plug and play" essentially replace that part for this one. I really dont have access to a machine shop and would rather be able to know I can pickup parts and install it.

I've heard a little talk about the baer system, but not sure which way to go. I would like to spend at most $2,000 - $2,500 for all four corners.

Thanks guys

James
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Old Jun 6, 2003 | 09:48 PM
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Car: 1993 Toyota Supra
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Axle/Gears: 3.13
For that much money you can pick your self up with Baer brakes all the way around at www.thunderracing.com.
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Old Jun 7, 2003 | 08:25 AM
  #3  
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From: Changing Tires
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Plug and what? Hahahha!! With about 2,000-2,500 to spend you could get either a Baer setup or a 1LE setup. Do a search on both to get sizes and specs. What size wheels are you running?
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Old Jun 7, 2003 | 01:00 PM
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Car: 1988 Camaro Convertible
Engine: 355
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Well, I was probably going to go with the baer setup, but I wasn't too familiar if I had to order new pads from Baer each time I needed to change my brakes or what?

I am running 16's right now, but realistically want to move up to 17's. The eventual plan is to put about 500hp on the ground. Starting with about 360 (super ram 355 or 383) and than putting a D1sc on a little later. I need to be able to stop that kind of power

Which baer setup to go with? I was reading about a new setup they have coming out, the eradispeed? I won't be buying for another two months at least (need to finish the engine and tranny) and heard that baer had the eradispeed coming out for thirdgen's and that would be the system to get???


James
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Old Jun 7, 2003 | 06:35 PM
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: Trans Am
Engine: 305
Transmission: T56
If you have 17's, get the "Track". If you have 16's, get the "sport". The only difference is rotor size. Eradispeed is just their name for selling you a new rotor (don't bother, just get a whole system with new calpiers, and you'll be much happier.)

Oh, and get "touring" for the rear. (Its the only choice except for "rod and drag" (too small) or "touring +" (too big, I think you need 18's)
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Old Jun 8, 2003 | 01:38 PM
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lane's Avatar
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From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Originally posted by Jstcrzyengh
Well, I was probably going to go with the baer setup, but I wasn't too familiar if I had to order new pads from Baer each time I needed to change my brakes or what?

I am running 16's right now, but realistically want to move up to 17's. The eventual plan is to put about 500hp on the ground. Starting with about 360 (super ram 355 or 383) and than putting a D1sc on a little later. I need to be able to stop that kind of power

Which baer setup to go with? I was reading about a new setup they have coming out, the eradispeed? I won't be buying for another two months at least (need to finish the engine and tranny) and heard that baer had the eradispeed coming out for thirdgen's and that would be the system to get???


James
I have a baer track kit front and rear. It uses corvette brake parts so you don't have to worry about getting stiffed by baer if you ever need to rebuild your brakes.
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Old Jun 8, 2003 | 03:51 PM
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
With that much jack to spend look into Brembo or Wilwood.


Ed
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Old Jun 13, 2003 | 12:31 AM
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From: Newport Beach, California
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 1992 TPI 350
Transmission: 1989 T5
Axle/Gears: 1992 10 Bolt Rear w/ 3.42 gearing
you're going about it the wrong way


you can easilly overwhelm your tire's grip with good brake pads and stock rotors/calipers


Hawk HP+ pads will stop your car very well.. there are more brands and different compounds out there to choose from... stranoparts.com has all the good stuff

even with Hoosier race tires(autocross and road race type), the stock brake system can lock the tires up...

Last edited by prockbp; Jun 13, 2003 at 12:35 AM.
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Old Jun 13, 2003 | 07:25 PM
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: Trans Am
Engine: 305
Transmission: T56
Almost all brakes can lock the wheels up. Performance brakes do two things:

1) They allow you to brake on the verge of locking up the wheels more easily.
2) They have a much greater capacity for dissipating and/or dealing with HEAT.
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Old Jun 13, 2003 | 11:28 PM
  #10  
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From: Newport Beach, California
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 1992 TPI 350
Transmission: 1989 T5
Axle/Gears: 1992 10 Bolt Rear w/ 3.42 gearing
Originally posted by colonboy14
Almost all brakes can lock the wheels up. Performance brakes do two things:

1) They allow you to brake on the verge of locking up the wheels more easily.
2) They have a much greater capacity for dissipating and/or dealing with HEAT.
1) you're talking about better modulation.. and i'll agree with that

2) uh.. duh... what do you think PERFORMANCE pads are going to help with
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Old Jun 14, 2003 | 09:00 AM
  #11  
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: Trans Am
Engine: 305
Transmission: T56
Pads are just a small part in the equation. Sure, they help, but you can't seriously say that a 10" or 10.5" (I can't remember) rotor with a single piston iron caliper is just as good as a kit from baer or something like that. The stock brakes just retain heat like crazy. A larger rotor will dissipate heat faster, and pads don't like heat. (Well, they like a specific range of heat, but generally the cooler you can get them the better)
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Old Jun 14, 2003 | 03:00 PM
  #12  
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From: Newport Beach, California
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 1992 TPI 350
Transmission: 1989 T5
Axle/Gears: 1992 10 Bolt Rear w/ 3.42 gearing
Originally posted by colonboy14
Pads are just a small part in the equation. Sure, they help, but you can't seriously say that a 10" or 10.5" (I can't remember) rotor with a single piston iron caliper is just as good as a kit from baer
i'm not, i'm saying those kits are uneccessary for 90% of the applications around here
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