I am installing a set of drilled and slotted barke rotors on my 5.0L RS and was wondering if any one has done this. I would like to hear some advice for brake pads for these, or if drilled and slotted was a waste of money for Street/strip? Thanks.

 

Metallic Brake Pads are a must

I noticed that it stops smoother and a little bit quicker, but they look sweet....

They are a nice cheap upgrade, I only paid $150 installed though...

 

Here is a cut and paste from Wilwood's site about drilled rotors.

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"Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity."

 

I know the adverse affects of incoporating holes in the rotor face and making it prone to cracking and such; but I don't understand why it could diminish the cooling capacity of the rotor?

Could someone elaborate on why this is?

 

I have titanium pads, they've been on the car for about a year and show no signs of wear at all with the drilled and slotted rotors. Can't compare them to stock because I never drove the car with them on it. That was among the many things (like rebuilding my motor, tranny, and rear end) that I had to do before the car was drivable. But, anyways, the car stops REALLY good.

 

Try this forum for the definitive on why drilled/ slotted brakes are only for looks and are bad for road racing.
http://corner-carvers.com/altimathread.php.html


To give a summary you want 3 things in a brake. The biggest being the ability of the rotor to move heat away from the pads. Thus you want as much mass of the rotor as possible. By cutting holes in the rotor you are reducing mass, thus decreasing the ability of the rotors to avoid overheating, which causes fade. The original reason for the holes was vent of gasses released by pads(see back in the 60s, same with the slots). With todays cars this is not as much as a problem solely due to looks. Furthermore, drilling holes and slots makes the structure of the rotor far less rigid(pro racers use solid rotors for this reason). so the chances of a broken rotor are higher.

If you have the chance read the link, it is informative on all manners brake related, and dispels many brake myths. Not to mention it is a fun read, a friend of mine embarass' a guy who sells brakes and doesn't know what he is talking about.


To get better braking performance your options are: refresh the brakes, get larger diameter rotors, better pads, more pistons, ect...

 

I just made the mistake of clicking on that link. I didn't really learn anything new, except a few things that wont make a difference in my life.... But it killed way too much of my morning!

 

I guess your not as in to the physics behind suspensions as some of us. I found it an entertaining read, albeit I admit it is very long and meant for the engineering inclined.

Oh and why did you continue to read it if the first page didn't entertain you?

Keep in mind as well, the purpose of my car is road racing, so I really do care about the small things. (I better be, it would suck to drop 4000 dollars into suspension only to realize you should have gone a different route. Now If I can just scrape up the last 5000 for a big brake kit and front suspension things).

 

graywolf624,

Have you been following the brake upgrade threads? There are at least 3 or 4 different ways to go for big front brakes. And the cost is very reasonable.

 

I am going a little higher quality then those mods, though I have been following them. I am thinking perhaps try to get a company to help make me a one off kit. The goal is at least 13" up front and 4 piston. The big suggestion my friends have pushed is see if stoptech can help, but I have a few avenues from that perspective once I have the money.

(Keeping in mind I am liable to chicken out if the ls1 and t56 swap goes over budget and immediately convert a set of c5 brakes, but that is the plan at the moment)

 

Actually I am really into the physics and mechanics of it. But I've already heard/read most of the arguments on both sides of the arguments. As far as I'm concerend the slotted and or drilled rotors do have their place (but only if the quality is up to par.) I say this because the way I see it there are all different quality levels. Personally I would rather buy a set of plain rotors of a mid to high quality over a set of fancy ones of the same quality. Not only for the strength and price difference, but I don't really like things that jump out at you and scream "look at me, I'm special!!" However I do plan on using the Spohn LCAs with dual spherical rod ends, and if I ever get a set of Baer brakes the rotors will be zinc washed only for rust prevention. I guess my moto is function over wow factor... or something like that.

Oh, I have no idea why I didn't stop reading that page sooner. I made it about halfway through before I decided to stop. It was entertaining, but just WAY too long.