I've search'd archives and I couldn't find another post with a problem like this... so here goes:

Finally got my hurst line lock from JEGS. My mechanic installed it between my MC and PV (only a street car doesn't need to pass inspection since nearest 1/4 strip is 2 hour drive). I hook'd it up today on the little toggle switch they send with it. When I go to use it won't hold pressure for some reason.

I push the brake pedal till it gets firm and will go no farther, even I hold the switch. I hear the line lock click as it engages and the volt. guage drops a little bit too... then when I release the brake pedal the car still rolls even with the switch button held down. When I release the switch button I hear a quieter click as it disengages and the volt guage goes back to normal. I checked all the lines and there all connected to the right spots.

Anyone got any ideas?

 

Tried multiple pumps (1st tried 6, then 10, then 15, then 20) still can't get it to hold.

 

Is it installed correctly? If its not then it might try to hold pressure between the line lock and the master, not the lock and the front wheels. Another thought is that he pu it in the rear brake line.... or the lock itself could be bad.

 

does the selenoid click? that would tell you it has power and is working. i'd have to look but i'd guess it needs to be after the PV.

 

It clicks when it engages and a lighter click as it disenages.

I checked all the in's and out's and it's put on correctly. Also checked and it's on the fronts.

It shouldn't have to be after the PV... just if it's gonna past tech inspection it's suppose to be. I've seen them work before the PV before on other cars.

I think it's a faultly unit but I could be wrong... I'm gonna take it back out and put a tee in the line so I don't lose all my fluid.

 

I think I solved my problem. My mechanic didn't clean out MC bottom before adding new fluid... I have a good inch worth of grit and grim on bottom... I'm williing to bet that's what keeping the line lock open. What's everyone think? I hear there really sensitive to about anything... I think that much grit would surely keep it from closing out causing the bleeding pressure.

I went to wallie world and purchased the supertech dot 3 fluid (hey it's only like $2.30 for the big bottle and it's just gonna be used as a flusher). I went ahead and bought 3 of them. Figured as nice to have extra on hand. So I guess I'm gonna go over to the shop tomorrow and see what they will do about it. 1/2 tempted just to tell them to **** off and just start doing everything like this myself. I just never liked the idea of flaring fittings on metal lines or just messing with brake fluid for that matter.

Anyone know if I can just flush out line lock too? Or will that have to be disassembled and cleaned?

 

Well I went over to the shop today. Owner told me he cleaned out MC except maybe for some grit on the bottom of it. He said there is nothing wrong with the particles in the fluid. He said it was normal and wouldn't hurt anything. I asked him if he could flush it all out for me and clean out MC. He told well if I wanted that done then the MC probably has it in the bore and needs to be replaced so he would have to get a MC to install. Also said dirty fluid would have nothing to do with the line lock not working. I've owned the car for 3 years now and never replaced fluid and it probably was never replaced by previous owners.

The fluid was so dirty I couldn't even see the sides of the MC are indented on the corners.

Went home and cut an empty pop can so it was only about 2 inchs tall and used it as a scoop. I cleaned out MC then Q tiped it all clean. Then I jacked up the car and took the front tires off... in the mean time I couldn't get 2 lugs off the passenger side with the air wrench the shop put them on so tight. Imagine if I was trying to do it with a gm wrench or a 4 way along side the road somewhere. Ended up putting driver side wheel back on so I could lower car and soak lugs in wd-40 then I still mangled up a good 4 way pretty well gorrilla wrenching them off. Crack front bleeders let them all gravity feed till they wouldn't go anymore. Then I got an assistant to pump brake as I feed MC new fluid put a whole 16 oz clear of fluid threw the system before recapping even though the were clear for a long time. Also engaged and disenaged line lock hoping to get some clean fluid in it. Rears were easier since I didn't pull tires off them. Did same to them.
After all pretty easy process.

Tried line lock again still didn't work. I pulled fittings on it all flares and clean and so are fittings on unit itself as well as insides. I went ahead and hooked back up front brakes again into PV like stock and pulled the line lock. Gonna mess around with it tomorrow and see if I can manually see parts moving inside it if I pull off fittings. Then probably call up mr gasket and see if they'll take it back for a rebuild or trade out.

 

bought another one from JEGS and sent bad one back in for refund and new unit worked fine once I installed it. Must have been a bad unit first time.

 

Glad you found the problem. Thanks for posting the update.

 

OH, I also want to add I priced the Ford HD brake fluid when I flushing out the system.... around $4 a pint. Ouch!

No wonder it's suppose to be the best stuff out there for street cars it's practically gold!

Also new lock works fine. Holds pressure in 1 or 2 pumps.

 

good to hear that i almost didnt buy mine.guess i forward my order.The flareing isnt really a big deal id say it just takes practice like 4 tries it took me alot easier with a table vice.We end up doing that in auto class pretty easy just a hasle.

 

I was always worried about installing a line lock on a street car- can these things blow out or anything? I'd hate to be driving down the road and my line lock shatters or blows a seal... I know they're meant for "race" cars, but race cars usually don't see salt or snow or rain or freezing temps

 

There putting them on the new ZL1 2003 camaros (600 hp 427 sbc 12:1 compression). So I doubt there's any chance of break down. I had that faulty unit and it didn't leak at all, just didn't function properly I still had all my line pressure. I guess in freak chance it could seize up with unit active (holding pressure) but that should only have a chance of it happening when in use (putting power to the unit). The units themselves are made out of metal so I kind of doubt them exploding or anything. There aren't really many seals in them I think theres a top seal and bottom seal all the lines are just flared fittings.

 

I also know of some people that use them on their tow trucks due to the fact it was cheaper to put them on than replacing the E brake. It gets fairly cold here.

 

Cool! Thanks for the info! I've wanted one for so long... I could deal with the line lock not holding me still, but I couldn't deal with "no brakes" on the highway.

Although, (laughs) I'd look like a dummy if the linelock couldn't keep me still at the racetrack! I could just hear the announcer laughing now...

 

Summit racing has there line lock for sale now for 70 bucks. That's a little cheaper than the hurst one and it looks to be made the same way.

 

SLP makes a kit for our cars thats comes with evertything needed including pre bent brake lines.

 

That would be easier yet.