Item: Manufacturer: Quantity: Model #
Energy Suspension Control Arm Bushing Sets: Energy Suspension 1 #ENS-3-3157G
Ball Joints: NAPA 2 #NCP2601130
Tie Rods-Inner NAPA 2 #NCP2692612
Tie Rods-Outer NAPA 2 #NCP2692613
Tie Rods-Sleeves Coleman Racing 2 #RP-129-4
Idle Arm NAPA 1 #NCP2683635
Sway Bar Endlinks WHAT SIZE SWAY BAR
Sway Bar Bushings
Struts KYB GR-2 2 Summit # KYB-236001
Shocks KYB GR-2 2 Summit # KYB-343211
Springs WS6 -Where to get these?/Will they fit?-
Upper Strut Mounts -What kind, where to get them?-
Sub Frame Connector Spohn Tubular 1
Strut Tower Brace Edelbrock 1 Summit # EDL-5227
Jam Nuts/Steel (Right) Coleman Racing 2 #941-R
Jam Nuts/Steel (Left) Coleman Racing 2 #941-L

So is this all I need to be happy? Being my mom's car, she doesn't recall having any suspension work being done to it, so I want to get it done right. Also please let me know if all the quantities are right and that I am getting the right stuff, because I just want to order it all ASAP and get it put in, I would hate for the shop to hold my car while I need to get something for it that I missed...once again thanks for all your help, especially Dewey.

 

ok, you pretty much have everything.

sway bar, you are going to need to measure what is on the car, so you get the bushings for the correct size sway bar.

Springs, WS6 springs can be found on firebirds with the WS6 suspension package, might check the classifieds. springs from an IROC will also be a good choice they are actualy a higher rate spring that the ws6 springs. if you dont' have easy access to used parts, the eibach pro-kit is popular, only lowers 1", but since your car is 14years old, you porbbaly wouldn't notice much of a diffrence in ride height. they are also higher rate, so you won't scrape as much, even though it sits lower

strut mounts- there are a couple options here. you can get a stock style mount, spohn sells those, you can probably also find them at napa, or the like. since i doubt your car is going to be used for racing, i won't recomend the billet mounts, but if you want some serious BLING under there Alloy Specialties makes some very nice peices, but be prepared to pay the $330 price tag. Hunter MotorSports also makes them, but only in limited runs, IIRC they are working on getting people for his next run. but those mounts are most likely overkill for your mom.

the only other peices you could possibly be missing are the 'rag joint' and 'centerlink' other than that, i beleive that you have every peice of the front suspension listed up there.

also, alot of people don't use the GR-2 on both front and rear, they do a combination of the gas-a-just on the front, and gr-2 on the rear (may have that backwards, you will want to search for KYB, that will answer your question.

 

Holy cow I hope all that comes with some "lube" because you'll need it if you have a shop do the work for you.

Oh, as far as WS6 springs go... I found mine used on the classifieds here. They will fit in place of your stock ones. I wrote up a page on how I rebuilt my front end and changed springs: http://ukrainetrain21.tripod.com/ukrainetrain/id20.html

 

okay, so in addition to what i have, i'll be going with the:
Eibach Pro Kit from Summit Part #EIB-3801-140
Spohn Upper Strut Mounts
Centerlink from Summit Part #MOG-DS1049 (is $66 acceptable for the price for that item?)
and still looking for the Rag Joint...so would that be it?

 

napa has the moog centerlink for $45 (remeber MRC (napas lower line) is moog parts.)

part # MRC-DS1049

the rag joint, you can see this thread , it has several part numbers, and explanes what is involved.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...light=steering

and yes, if you are going to have a shop do all of this work, be prepared to pay for it.

 

I bought one (Edelbrock Strut Tower Brace for TBI/carb.) but in the rush to get it I didn't check that it wouldn't fit on cars with the A/C on the driver's side... does any one want to buy it? $120 takes it!

 

where should i order the swaybar endlinks and bushings from...the sway bar is 34mm

 

i like the greasable ones from TDS (banner at top of page). i think spohn might sell greaseable ones too, might check him out, and see who is priced better.

 

should i get 2 kits, for both front & rear sway bars? and do i "need" a new sway bar...the one i have looks fine, u said to get new endlinks and bushings, but nothign about replacing the sway bar...if so which is a good sway bar to replace with if absolutely necessary?

 

anybody?

 

no you do not need new sway bars.

you can get bushing for the front and the rear if you like, the rear bar should be a 23mm, but i would go out there and measure it before buying anything.

 

I think you may be overlooking front control arm bushings, and
new bolts and nuts.

when i did my suspension work, i had a shop press the bushings into the front and rear control arms and install the ball joints. I didn't even want to think about wasting a day fighting them bushings, $80 cash covered it, i supplied parts of course.

I highly recommend getting new bolts from G.M. (and lightly grease them or use ant-seize compound), they're cheap and were in stock for me.

oh and a hint for sway-bar bushings, mine came with special measuring paper. It came in handy when i needed to exchange the ones i bought for the right ones. why my measurements weren't tight, i still don't know.

 

he has that covered.

 

I just remembered why i didn't get that measurement right, I tried to work on my car in the morning after a nightshift, just like now. I should apply for night shift at a nuclear plant.

 

ok, well i ordered everything, including the front and rear sway bar bushing kit from TDS...i already got my napa parts, they came the next day...they include the ball joint, tie rods, and idle arm aseembly

 

Just curious, but what do the billet mounts do that the stock ones don't besided look a little better and that is opinion really?

 

the only thing keeping me back is labor day weekend...woohoo no shipments till tuesday!

 

any updates transam? Dewey, I noticed the tie rod ends from the NAPA MRC line can only be bought inner left and outer right, at least thats how the part numbers are labeled. Any ideas, or could the last letter in the part number be irrelevant here?

 

the L and R are not left and right, for some reaosn the inner tie rods are one, the outers are the other, it makes no diffrence right vs left for the tie rods, so napa gave the inner one and the other the other :shrugs: i don't make the numbers, i just use them.

 

The L and R refers to the direction the rod is threaded.. not where it goes on the vehicle.