questions on tie rods and centerlink
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 647
Likes: 1
From: Orange County, CA
Car: 86 TA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 - 2200 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
questions on tie rods and centerlink
shop just said my tie rods and centerlink were rusting and need replacing. they want $450 to change them. i'd like to do it myself. im not too familiar with them though. does anyone have any pics? where should i buy from? do i need any special tools? how hard would it be?
im planning on tackling my shocks and springs at the same time so i figure ill just do it all at once.
thanks!
im planning on tackling my shocks and springs at the same time so i figure ill just do it all at once.
thanks!
Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From: London, Ontario, Canada
Car: '87 IROC
Engine: L98
Transmission: TH700R4
Some guys on here say that Performance Suspension Components is good. I believe they use Moog parts and the prices are very reasonable.
I am going to buy stuff from them in the near future.
tj
I am going to buy stuff from them in the near future.
tj
I just rebuilt my front end with parts from P-S-T. They use moog tie rods. It comes with all bushings and ball joint, but not the inner tie rods or center link. The center link is like 35 and the inner tie rods were not that much. I didn't get a new center link, but my front end feels so much better now. To do the front struts and spring make sure that you have an internal spring compressor to take the springs out and put them in. If you need any more tips just drop me a line.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 762
Likes: 1
From: Long Beach, CA
Engine: 305 TPI (LB9)
Transmission: WC T-5
Diggler,
What shop in Long Beach (if it even was Long Beach) quoted you that price? The only special tool you need is a 'pickle fork' to separate the tie rods from the spindles and the center link from the pitman/idler arms. It's not a very tough job, you'll just need to get it aligned afterwards. East Long Beach Brake Service (corner of Anaheim St./Ximeno Ave.) did a good job on my last alignment and they are quite reasonable ($45 IIRC).
What shop in Long Beach (if it even was Long Beach) quoted you that price? The only special tool you need is a 'pickle fork' to separate the tie rods from the spindles and the center link from the pitman/idler arms. It's not a very tough job, you'll just need to get it aligned afterwards. East Long Beach Brake Service (corner of Anaheim St./Ximeno Ave.) did a good job on my last alignment and they are quite reasonable ($45 IIRC).
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 762
Likes: 1
From: Long Beach, CA
Engine: 305 TPI (LB9)
Transmission: WC T-5
Originally posted by bes217
The center link is like 35 and the inner tie rods were not that much.
The center link is like 35 and the inner tie rods were not that much.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 647
Likes: 1
From: Orange County, CA
Car: 86 TA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 - 2200 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
it was a Goodyear place on Cherry Ave in North LB. Ive only gone their in the past to get oil changes since they rotate the tires free too.
this time i went there b/c i wanted a high estimate for an accident i just had to show to insurance. see this post!: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=208557
i knew their prices are ridiculous, they tried to rape me once for a serpintine hose on my jeep for $80 that took me 5 minutes to change myself. i wanted a high estimate so i can show to insurance since the radiator got damaged.
anywho, they came up with this long list of things that needed repairs, most not due to accident just plain age. i plan on fixing most myself. i figure it makes sense to just do it all before i get the alignment done.
i hope i can "rent" this pickle fork from autozone...
thanks for the tips drop-top!
this time i went there b/c i wanted a high estimate for an accident i just had to show to insurance. see this post!: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=208557
i knew their prices are ridiculous, they tried to rape me once for a serpintine hose on my jeep for $80 that took me 5 minutes to change myself. i wanted a high estimate so i can show to insurance since the radiator got damaged.
anywho, they came up with this long list of things that needed repairs, most not due to accident just plain age. i plan on fixing most myself. i figure it makes sense to just do it all before i get the alignment done.
i hope i can "rent" this pickle fork from autozone...
thanks for the tips drop-top!
Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 170
Likes: 1
From: Detroit, MI
Car: 91 Z28/99 WS6/02 WS6
Engine: All 350's :)
Transmission: 700R4 & 2 Tremec T56's
I replaced all my front steering components with all Moog pieces from Summit Racing for $310 doing it myself - then will need an alignment ( ~$50)
I used the following parts list :
1 - MOG-DS1049 - centerlink - $65.99
2 - MOG-ES2032S - sleeves - $11.39 ea
2 - MOG-ES2226RL - outer tie rod ends - $35.99 ea
2 - MOG-ES2227RL - inner tie rod ends - $46.39 ea
1 - MOG-K6249 - Idler arm - $56.39
LARGE picture at following URL :
http://www.magic-gate.com/pictures/1991Z28/DSCN0235.JPG
I used the following parts list :
1 - MOG-DS1049 - centerlink - $65.99
2 - MOG-ES2032S - sleeves - $11.39 ea
2 - MOG-ES2226RL - outer tie rod ends - $35.99 ea
2 - MOG-ES2227RL - inner tie rod ends - $46.39 ea
1 - MOG-K6249 - Idler arm - $56.39
LARGE picture at following URL :
http://www.magic-gate.com/pictures/1991Z28/DSCN0235.JPG
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Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 647
Likes: 1
From: Orange County, CA
Car: 86 TA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 - 2200 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
WOW that helps
thanks
do you think thats why my steering creaks and groans when i turn at sharp turns?? i was thinking about changing the strut mounts up front but maybe this is the problem??
my idler arm looks ok right? any bushings i need with those items below? do i grease them or anything?
sorry for ignorance im learning!
thanksdo you think thats why my steering creaks and groans when i turn at sharp turns?? i was thinking about changing the strut mounts up front but maybe this is the problem??
my idler arm looks ok right? any bushings i need with those items below? do i grease them or anything?
sorry for ignorance im learning!
Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 170
Likes: 1
From: Detroit, MI
Car: 91 Z28/99 WS6/02 WS6
Engine: All 350's :)
Transmission: 700R4 & 2 Tremec T56's
well - that's actually the pitman arm, and ya, it looks okay
(pitman has no moving parts so it doesn't really wear)
your parts don't actually look that bad to me, but if it's creaking and groaning and you don't know when it was last serviced I'd do it... If you don't have the experience (or a friend who does) and/or the right tools and that $450 includes Moog or TRW parts and an alignment, then it may be worth it. Ask about the parts they want to use. Ask what the price would be if you provided the parts *shrug* All about what you're comfortable doing - My "mentor" was a full time mechanic at the time when our cars were new and I'm shaking the rust out of his brain and getting some great help
(pitman has no moving parts so it doesn't really wear)your parts don't actually look that bad to me, but if it's creaking and groaning and you don't know when it was last serviced I'd do it... If you don't have the experience (or a friend who does) and/or the right tools and that $450 includes Moog or TRW parts and an alignment, then it may be worth it. Ask about the parts they want to use. Ask what the price would be if you provided the parts *shrug* All about what you're comfortable doing - My "mentor" was a full time mechanic at the time when our cars were new and I'm shaking the rust out of his brain and getting some great help
Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 276
Likes: 1
From: Long Beach, CA
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: LO3: 305 TBI
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 1997 Trans Am rear w/ posi -3.23
Head over to NAPA
You can get the centerlink and tie rods from them. Their Master Ride Chassis line is Federal Mogul(Moog). You'll notice that they have the exact same part numbers too. Save yourself some cash.
Centerlink: #MRCDS1049 $44.99
Inner Tie Rods: #MRCES2227LR $26.99 @
Outer Tie Rods: #MRCES2226LR $16.99 @
Sleeves: #MRCES2032 $5.99 @
The Idler Arm is different, though. The following Moog part number is for the "improved design" MOG-K6249T. Good luck. Aslo, check out this thread for any other questions on front end parts you might have. https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...&highlight=MRC
Centerlink: #MRCDS1049 $44.99
Inner Tie Rods: #MRCES2227LR $26.99 @
Outer Tie Rods: #MRCES2226LR $16.99 @
Sleeves: #MRCES2032 $5.99 @
The Idler Arm is different, though. The following Moog part number is for the "improved design" MOG-K6249T. Good luck. Aslo, check out this thread for any other questions on front end parts you might have. https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...&highlight=MRC
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,577
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
i have the napa chassis idler arm, it is a VERY nice peice. it makes the moog piece look like a chincy peice of crap.
also, for the tie rod sleve's check out coleman racing, you can get the solid sleeves (like edelbrock and hotchis sell for $60+) for under $20 bones. you alignment guy will love you for getting them.
also, for the tie rod sleve's check out coleman racing, you can get the solid sleeves (like edelbrock and hotchis sell for $60+) for under $20 bones. you alignment guy will love you for getting them.
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,577
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
NCP2683635
the napa chassis brand is the higher end napa stuff, it is very good quality i bought the idler arm and ball joints from that line. they are both VERY VERY nice products. when you compare them side by side with their moog counterparts, you will see why i went with those pieces.
the napa chassis brand is the higher end napa stuff, it is very good quality i bought the idler arm and ball joints from that line. they are both VERY VERY nice products. when you compare them side by side with their moog counterparts, you will see why i went with those pieces.
Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 276
Likes: 1
From: Long Beach, CA
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: LO3: 305 TBI
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 1997 Trans Am rear w/ posi -3.23
Wow, creepy.
Hey Dewey not only do we have EXTREMELY similar cars, we gave 'em the same name too. Anyway, $83.99 seem seems kinda steep. Ill stop by NAPA on my way home today, and check it out. Thanks, Efrain.
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,577
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
yeah it was spendy. but once you see it and compare the two, you will start digging through your pockets looking for spare change...
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