I have searched and cant find a definate answer on the question, "If you use lowering springs i.e. Eilbach, drop zone, ect... do you HAVE to use relocation brackets?" What are the advantages and disadvantages of the brackets? How will it affect the handling, steering, alignment, wheel/tire size? I am only wanting to lower it about 1 inch all the way around and it is a daily driver, not a racer.

 

http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1290

that should answer most of everything.

i will sum it up also: add traction and prevent wheel hop.

 

you dont have to use the relocation brackets.You car is going to get a little less traction than it had before but you can run it with them. If you get them buy the bmr ones that are bolt in , i got them and they work fine, no problems.

 

Advantages: They correct the factory's defective design, aggravated by the lowering, whereby the front of the LCA is lower than the rear of it, which makes the forward push applied by the engine to the rear end want to lift the rear end off the pavement

Disadvantages: Might make your competitors who don't have them think you're cheating when you leave them in your dust at the line and they're still feathering the pedal to work around their inevitable wheel hop

 

it is not "a must" you car will not fall apart, you life will not be in danger if you do not put brackets on the car.

BUT . . .

when you lower the car, the axel is closer to the body, which makes the LCA sit lower on the body side, than the axle side. this has a few adverse effects on forward traction. because your anti-squat goes in the negative, and the rear wheels will want to move upward as you accelerate. this is what most of us know as 'wheel hop'

with the relocation brackets, the axle side LCA mount sits lower than than the body side mount. with the LCA's angled like this, when you accelerate, the rear tires are driving into the ground (you can get 100%+ anti-squate) you can push them down so hard, that it will actualy push the back of the car up, and drive the wheels into the ground. this is very good for forward traction. but adversly, with the lca's angled like that, you encounter roll oversteer under cornering, take it as a trade off, most people consider the forward traction to be more valuable than the roll steer issue.

the way to set it up, is to have the LCA sit very close parrellel to the ground, with the axle side slightly lower, but try to get it close to level. this should keep your roll steer pretty close to neutral, and still give you good anti-squate charictoristics for forward traction.

Hope that helps.

 

Here is a pic to give you an idea of what they will look like. Go with the weld in ones. They are cheaper and will not stretch the bolt holes that the bolt in ones could eventually do.

 

Thanks for the all the good info guy's. Boy I was sure worried about my life dewey316 ...........

 

Are you mocking someone who gave you sound advice?

-Schultzy

 

gee, i'm sorry, when post things with words like 'HAVE' in all caps, i thought you were wondering if you **ta-da** 'HAVE' to do it for some reason.

note to self: stop trying to actualy help people, and explain how and why we do these things.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Dewey316
[B]it is not "a must" you car will not fall apart, you life will not be in danger if you do not put brackets on the car.

Sorry about that, but it looked to me as if you were making light of my question with a condisending answer like that. If you don't want to reply thats fine. I do appreciate the remainder of your answer.