yes i bled them.....15 times......i took the lines loose at the drums....nailed the brakes, fluied shot 15 feet.....no blockage....

if i pump the brakes a good 6 times hard they finally work....but ...if you nail them once...nothing happens....the pistons in the drums wont move.....unless i pump the bejesus outta the brakes....any ideas??

this happened when i finished up putting my rear on.....im not a brake pro.... help!

this happens on both drums....it isnt just one..

 

It's probably the adjusters on the bottom are not extended yet.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...star+adjusters

 

well...the pistons dont move at all unless i pump the brakes hard a few times.....ill try the star adjusters though...worth a shot i suppose

 

Sorry, I didn't read your post well enough, I missed the part about "the pistons dont move". That shouln't have anything to do with the adjusters

 

When you say that you have to pump the brakes 6 times...is the pedal long and spongy or is it solid and hard?

If it is long and spongy, then you've either still got air in the system....or the Master Cylinder has failed. Sometimes when you bleed brakes a bit of junk can get stuck in the inlet port of the MC, or it can damage a seal.

Incorrect bleeding procedures can also suck air into the system. Rapid pumping of the brake pedal when bleeding will create air bubbles at the MC and you will never get all of the air out. You think you've got it bled correctly because you have no air bubbles showing when you crack the bleeder at the wheel. What you can't see is the air bubbles that are now at the far end of the line, near the MC.

Proper procedure is to slowly pump the pedal one time, hold pressure , then crack the bleeder valve. Close bleeder valve and slowly release the pedal.

Note: If the MC ran dry when you were working on things, then you will have to bleed the entire system starting at the MC.

1) Start at the Front wheel port ( Closest to firewall ). Place rags under MC to save paint from brake fluid. Slowly pump brake pedal and hold. Crack the brake line at the MC. Note if any air comes out. Repeat until no air bubbles come out.

Now why would you bleed the front system if you have a problem with the rears? Good question. Because of how the Dual Circuit design of the MC. Inside the MC, the front and rear pistons are not mechanically connected. Actuation of the Secondary piston ( Rear wheels, farthest from firewall) is by hydraulic pressure from the Primary piston. If you have air in the Primary side ( Front wheels, closest to firewall ) then this air will compress and the Secondary piston will not move...or it will move very little.

2) Repeat procedure at Rear wheel port ( Farthest from firewall ). Then inlet to Proportioning valve, outlets of proportioning valve. Left front wheel, Right front wheel, left rear wheel and finally right rear wheel. Remember at all times to pump and release the brake pedal slowly. If you do it too fast, you will introduce air bubbles.

Easy to tell if air is still in the sytem, because the pedal will be long and spongy. Pedal should be rock hard and solid.

Now if the pedal is hard and solid...then you may have caused the brake failure shuttle valve to over center. This cuts off virtually all braking pressure to the rear. The shuttle valve is part of the brake proportioning valve assembly. Does the brake failure warning light come on when you press the pedal. Ignition on ....and make sure the bulb is not burnt out!!

Note: Fluid squirting 15 feet probably does not necessarily mean valve has not over centered.

 

Something rather simple that we all may have missed. When you say that you changed gears....did you change the whole axle assembly. What I'm getting at: Is this the same axle assembly as previously? If so I assume that the rear brakes worked before?

If it's a different axle assembly...then it could be as simple as the rear wheel cylinders are frozen and need to be replaced.

 

he fixed his problem by using the bleeder screw on the cylinder rather than the flare fittings to the cylinder
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=221396

 

LOL....Sometimes the simplest things.....

 

yeah....sad that i could do a gear swap and didnt know how to bleed brakes rofl...

actually i ended up with a very very very small amount of gear whine you car barely hear..... prolly gonna leave it be and drive it and see what happens...might wear in...its not loud at all....

must be close to dead on ...who knows...thanks anyways guys