I have a bone stock suspension except for Lakewood control arm/traction bars. I like running street tires and and i usually pull a 2.0 secs. in some occassions 1.9's. best of 1.89.
My shocks are stock and they are shot. They seem really soft in the back, and i am wondering if these bad shocks make me launch better?
Will I see an improvement if i install:
-eibach lowering springs?
-new struts and shocks(what brand?)
- sfc's(I want a weld in kit without cutting my floorboards)?
-strut tower brace?
I don't want to run slicks. I am running kumho 255 50's out in back. I think these tires hook well. I have gone through a few rear ends. and i am currently using 4.10 gears with a posi.
What kind of numbers could i expect?

 

u get better 60 foots than me and i have crap loads of suspension every track is different, and with all the weight i have on my car i know that my rims/tires slowed me down and all the other misc. weight added.


but subframe frame connectors are a must for any thirdgen, i dont care if they weigh 20+ pounds they still are a must.


lower control arm relocation brackets are a must also, especially if u are lowered.


i am sure blown rear shocks help with the weight distribution but the ride must not to great with hardly any dampening going on.

i use 50/50 rear shocks. and 70/30 shocks.

 

yes. they let the front end rise quick and let the rear end squat.. and thats what you want on the launch

springs: will hurt your 60'...
struts and shocks: drag ones may help or have no effect.. regular ones will hurt it.. performance HANDLING ones will severly hurt the launch.
SFC: great mod, but no effect on 60'
STB: no effect on 60'





they do hook well. and 2.0-1.89 seconds is hooking well.
however if you're looking for race tire results, you need to use a race tire..... or set your car up to such extremes that you might as well have run a race tire to begin with.

 

I thought you didn't want the rear end to squat.

 

you want the front end to rise and the rear end to squat.. for weight transfer

of course theres such thing as too much squat... at that point, the back of the LCAs are pointed up instead of down or flat... then you get wheel hop.


IMO i like it best when you make it squat in rear, raise in front, and just fix the LCA geometry with LCA relocation brackets.

 

I know one thing you can do to help weight transfer is disconnect the front sway bar, this will allow the front end to rise a lot.

 

what kind of negative handling characteristics will i get if i ditch the front sway bar?

 

in a corner, the car will lean to the outside more and have the tendency to push (understeer).



however its well within street driving limits IF you drive nice in the corners.... ie drive like a drag racer, slow in the corners, then nail the gas on the straights.

if you like to push hard in corners, or you find yourself pushing corners without thinking about it sometimes, then you probly dont want to remove it.







now what you CAN do is take out the two bolts that connect it to the a arms when you're at the dragstrip.... make your runs, then bolt it on when you get home..

 

I would agree with that if the sway bar end link bolts didn't take a year to undo (I suppose it would go easier with and air ratchet).

 

how much do you think the swaybar weighs? The car is already sloppy in the corners now, so im used to slowing for a curve..

will this really have a noticable effect on my launch?

im probably going to save the $ and not put different springs in, but what brand of weld in sfc's are the least painless to install?
I don't want to cut the floorboards..

one more question... Can i go bigger than 255 50 16's on my 16x8" wheels?

 

LCA relocator brackets, and tubed/boxed LCAs will make a world of difference.

My launch hurt a bit when I got new KYB setup... not much, I have nitto555rs to help. However, I don't have any LCA modifications, so I am sure that would really help too.