who makes good lca's ....i have seen them around for about 84 bucks all the way up to 189 for adjustable ones.

are the adjustable worth it? i mean for only street usage.....car rarely see's the track.

 

if ur looking some better than stock but not the best ones, i'd say lakewood ones from jegs or other order in places.

i went with non adjustable spohn ones. because i liked his tubular design and all other products offered like his relocation brackets also.

http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1292

 

are the spohn ones better than the lakewood......id assume so....

how quick is spohn on shipping?? hopefully better than slp....

slp took a damn month to get my posi here.... --flips off slp--

 

spohn was great, 2 thumbs up.

 

I first bought a used set of Spohns, adjustable with poly/spherical combination ends. My app is street use only too - these arms transmitted way too much noise for my likes - sounded like someone was back there with a hammer tapping on the chassis with every little bump I went over.

I now have a set of BMR arms. They too use a tubular design with greasable bushings. A qulaity piece IMHO. I got the set with rubber bushing on one end and poly on the other, with the rubber end being connected to the body. They are great - nice and quiet but surely an inprovement over the stock flimsy things. I wouldn't be too afraid of the rubber bushing on these being too soft - no doubt, it is not as stiff as a poly end but BMR is clever with their design. The bushing itself is rather small in diameter - smaller than the Spohn poly ends for comparison. So, even though it's rubber (well, neoprene to be specific), due to the small size it can't deflect too much just because there is not much rubber there to start with. Also, BMR says they use a higher-durometer rubber/neoprene that is firmer to start with and more durable. I like them for my app - you might want to check out the BMR stuff if yours is gonna be street only as well.
K

 

the spherical rod ends do transmit alot of noise. If you got the el-cheapo spohn stuff (doesn't even have to be the adjustable version) I am sure they would have been just as good as the BMR stuff you are using now.

 

I've got Granetelli's on my car. Poly/poly with grease zerks. They aren't any noisier than the stockers I replaced. You can use 82-2002 on the rear control arms. I scored mine on ebay, with less than 500 miles on them, for $45. I don't think you can beat that with a stick.

 

I would get some BMR LCA's: http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F3-suspension.htm

 

i have bmr xtreme adjustable lca, they are the biggest baddest ones you can get , they are poly poly and adjustable and greasable and are also chrome moly.

 

ok so...poly...or rubber?

tubular or boxed?

adjustable or non?

this is mostly street .....so im assuming non adjustable.....

im thinking....non adjustable.....poly to the rear...rubber to frame...
boxed....

--could be wrong and usually is--

 

i dont think you can buy new ones with rubber so poly is the answer. are you gonna lower the car , or not , then that will dictate wheather to get adjustable ones, If you dont lower it and dont want adjustable ones , buy boxed non adjustable poly poly lcas, they are the strongest you can get . but the only problem with boxed ones is that you cant get them in adjustable ones. hope it helps.

 

As far as I am aware, the only guys out there making an aftermarket LCA with a rubber bushing is BMR - check their site.

Mine are non-adj. I figured if I do drop the car (a big IF for me) it definetly won't be more than an inch and I was under the impression that an adj panhard rod was more important than adj LCAs - especially if you get LCA relocation brackets to maintain geometry; thus, I do have a Spohn adj track bar. ANYHOOOO - Just check out BMR's site before you make any decisions. I like Spohn a lot - don't wnat to sound biased toward BMR - I will probably be getting a set of Spohn subframes b/c they do look to be the best out there IMO.... But BMR is a good alternative - they make the tubular arms in 4130 chromoly which is a bit stronger than the mild steel (I'm assuming) used in the standard arms. I was under the impression that boxed arms were more suited to quite powerful power plants but I could be wrong there. Tubular is probably enough and matter of fact the whole tubular vs. boxed LCA discussion is probably quite debateable too.

Poly/Poly combos might be just as quiet as my Poly/neoprene combo LCAs - don't know. I can just tell you that a spherical end is DEFINETLY loud and easily annoying for street use. Great for the track no doubt, but probably not good for the street.

Good luck - K

 

i highly doubt i will lower the car any...i mean i have trouble with speed bumps as it is ......

the only reason i would lowe it is becuase the cheapest set of springs i found was on ebay for 90 bucks....all 4 spings....but they lower the car 1.5 inches in the rear and 1.8 in the front......

*cheapest springs* sounds like a bad idea now that i hear myself say it...er...type it rather....

so if i lower ir ever or have plans to....adjustable?

who makes some decent springs??

like i said...the car prolly wont see the track a whole lot....so the BEST isnt required for my happiness and street usage...thuus the reason i considered lakewood...the bmr boxed ones look alost TOO tall and look like they would hit the sub frame....guess not though

 

Aluminum LCA's

 

Thanks for the link to your website on aluminum lower control arms. Those LCA's look sweet. I'm going to have build me some of those too. Going through Coleman racing is definitely alot cheaper than buying an aftermarket set.

 

u can get tubular non adjustable LCAs from pro fab for 99 bucks...

http://hstrial-vhouse.homestead.com/our_products.htmlr

 

if you dont want to spend money i highly suggest boxing in your stock lcas. you said this was a street car and stock boxed lcas would be fine and you could put that money into other upgrades. just a thought. i just got done boxing mine last week and pressed the bushings in yesterday and i am impressed with the way they turned out.

 

Hey - that's an idea too. And even if you can't do the welding, a good welder in your area could probably do it for you, with some advanced notice, in a day. I used to use a welder that did all kinds of work, not just car stuff - like fencing, metal platforms for arenas, etc - all kinds of stuff. As long as thier welding is good, who cares what all they do. Something you might want to check in to.....
K

 

well, here is what i chose to do, and is done, and worked GREAT i might add.

i had some 1 1/2 inch steel tubing laying around.....cut it the length of the inner hollow part of the lca....drilled three holes in the pipe and bolted it into the existing 3 holes in the lca .....i didnt notice they already had holes in it until i was looking at them the other day....so since the holes were there i wasnt harming the structural integrity at all... anyways drilled the three holes and bolted them in with some washers holting the tubes against the LCA inner walls so it wouldnt shift back and forth.

i had thought about doing this already...just didnt see the holes before...and was scared to drill in them IF they didnt have any....but they did....and it worked great...no more wheel hop....just some info in case any of you dont have a welder and want to get this done for about 2 dollars.

 

never thought of doing it like that before.