ive heard this a few times... that when u lower a vehicle down the amount of the drop needs to be subtracted from the endlinks to keep it level? is that true? i have brand new endlinks all around id hate to have to cut them up and ****. can anyone shed light on this?

 

i dont think you would have to. think about some of the other cars that are lowered. the sway bar end links they have are only a couple inches long to begin with. you would have to completely delete them. i lowered mine, didnt shorten them and have had no problems at all. i wouldnt worry about it IMO.

 

To keep geometery of the suspension, you should.

However, if you make them to short, they will bind up.

You can keep them the same length, and they will work fine. If you were going to go buy new ones, I would suggest shorter, but since they are already new, I would run what you have.

 

is there a calculation that tells you how much shorter the endlink needs to be?

 

Just leave them be. You will not be able to tell the difference by re-posistioning them. The main thing to worry about when lowering is destroying your stock shocks, relocation brackets, and an adjustable panhard rod.

 

oh i had planned on that it's just this the first time ever hearing anything about this.

 

you can just raise and lower your car with the wheels hanging and as long as the swaybar isn't binding through the suspensions full extension you're probably fine. Of course this only checks jounce.

 

Levelling the endlinks only consists of shortening the sleeve that seperates the top and bottom sets of bushings. You can tell how much by taking off the endlinks, loading the suspension (evenly), and then holding up the sway bar at a level position.

All you're really doing by keeping the stock endlink length is making it point up rather than level. It will still work the way it is designed to.

 

Maybe you read my little blurb about this in another thread - if you did, I didn't mean to confuse things. I still agree that this is something that really may not need to be done. It only makes sense from maintaining original sway bar geometry.

K

 

I had my old 85 Z28 lowered nearly 3", and had no problems whatsoever with binding. That was with a stock replacement prothane endlink kit.

 

I shortened my end links after snapping two sway bar brackets and bending a 36mm WS6 front sway bar while driving and I have the Sportlines from Eibach. You'll want to shorten them just enough to keep the sway bar positioned similar to the way it was before lowering.

 

How much did u shorten yours mongoose