Cutting struts out.
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From: Knox County, Ohio
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 355c.i.
Transmission: Turbo 350, w/shift kit
Cutting struts out.
I have an 84 Z28. Im going to redo all of the front end/steering components, im putting ball joints in, inner/outter tie rods, adjustment sleeves, control arm bushings,stablinks,centerlink,idler arm,pitman arm....Everything. Im also going to get diffrent springs and struts. here is my problem. the strut bolts WONT BUDGE, can i just cut this out? Cut the strut in half to get it off the car, then i can take it to the shop i work at and seperate the rest of the stuff? I would just cut the tie rod end, the lower ball joint and the strut to pop it off, right?
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From: Aurora, ON, Canada
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 4 Spd Auto
If anything I would cut the bolts off with a cut off disc. I dont see why you would have to cut the strut in half. Did you try using any heat on the bolts to help break them loose??
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From: Orland Park, IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
FYI new struts don't come with new bolts....so you might not want to cut those bolts but rather get a big impact gun on them.
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From: Knox County, Ohio
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 355c.i.
Transmission: Turbo 350, w/shift kit
Originally posted by xpndbl3
FYI new struts don't come with new bolts....so you might not want to cut those bolts but rather get a big impact gun on them.
FYI new struts don't come with new bolts....so you might not want to cut those bolts but rather get a big impact gun on them.
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From: Clifton, NJ
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-5... in need of slight rebuild
Ummm... is it even possible to use those cam bolts to align our cars? I didn't think the struts had the right bracketry on them for that. Also instead of cutting everthing out, aren't the ball joint seperaters good for that? Then all you have to do is either remove the top bolt of the strut, or the 3 that hold the upper strut mount in. The strut should come out the top then.
I just don't think cutting is the easiest way out this time. I can't imagine the strut being very easy to cut through.
I just don't think cutting is the easiest way out this time. I can't imagine the strut being very easy to cut through.
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From: Knox County, Ohio
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 355c.i.
Transmission: Turbo 350, w/shift kit
Originally posted by slowTA
Ummm... is it even possible to use those cam bolts to align our cars? I didn't think the struts had the right bracketry on them for that. Also instead of cutting everthing out, aren't the ball joint seperaters good for that? Then all you have to do is either remove the top bolt of the strut, or the 3 that hold the upper strut mount in. The strut should come out the top then.
I just don't think cutting is the easiest way out this time. I can't imagine the strut being very easy to cut through.
Ummm... is it even possible to use those cam bolts to align our cars? I didn't think the struts had the right bracketry on them for that. Also instead of cutting everthing out, aren't the ball joint seperaters good for that? Then all you have to do is either remove the top bolt of the strut, or the 3 that hold the upper strut mount in. The strut should come out the top then.
I just don't think cutting is the easiest way out this time. I can't imagine the strut being very easy to cut through.
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From: Knox County, Ohio
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 355c.i.
Transmission: Turbo 350, w/shift kit
Another question. Sinse im rebuilding the front suspension im gonna ask. What parts can i get that will make it easier to pull my front tires off the ground...with good sticky tires that is, just curious is all.
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From: Orland Park, IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
remove all dead weight off the front of the car....A/C, wipers, crash bar, fiberglass hood, aluminum heads, alum water pump, no power steering, etc etc. drag struts, drag springs, slicks, high stall...the list goes on and on.
then maybe it might pull the tires. oh yea add a lot of HP too.
then maybe it might pull the tires. oh yea add a lot of HP too.
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From: New Jersey
Car: 86 Corvette, 89 IROC, 1999 TA
Engine: 350, 350, LS1
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4, T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.07, 373, 4.10
I've heard struts explode if you try to cut em in half, not sure if its true or not..
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From: Greenville S.C.
Car: 87 Grand National
Engine: 3.8 SFI Turbo
Transmission: BRF 200R4
Ummm... is it even possible to use those cam bolts to align our cars? I didn't think the struts had the right bracketry on them for that
If your an alignment tech then you should know how to use a torch. Especially if you've ever had to align a dodge intrepid!! Torch the bolts until they are red hot, then hit the nuts with an impact. They should come right off. If not.....get a better gun!
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From: Knox County, Ohio
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 355c.i.
Transmission: Turbo 350, w/shift kit
Originally posted by No4NJunk
Its possible. Northstar bolt kits (41-549 series I think, the ones for centuries and ninety eights) work. They don't require that the spindle be slotted. EZ cams from Napa are the same way. I wouldn't recommend it though, the strut mount has about 2-3 degrees of camber and caster adjustment in it. Those cam kits are weak and made of a lighter duty alloy. not something I would trust to keep my alignment in.
If your an alignment tech then you should know how to use a torch. Especially if you've ever had to align a dodge intrepid!! Torch the bolts until they are red hot, then hit the nuts with an impact. They should come right off. If not.....get a better gun!
Its possible. Northstar bolt kits (41-549 series I think, the ones for centuries and ninety eights) work. They don't require that the spindle be slotted. EZ cams from Napa are the same way. I wouldn't recommend it though, the strut mount has about 2-3 degrees of camber and caster adjustment in it. Those cam kits are weak and made of a lighter duty alloy. not something I would trust to keep my alignment in.
If your an alignment tech then you should know how to use a torch. Especially if you've ever had to align a dodge intrepid!! Torch the bolts until they are red hot, then hit the nuts with an impact. They should come right off. If not.....get a better gun!
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From: Roscoe, IL
Car: 1991 Trans Am
Engine: LQ4
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
dont cut the struts. the better thing to do would be to take it off the strut mount, 1 bolt, boom, tops out. then you can unbolt the ball joint and away you go to a bench to use the torch or whatever means necessary. try some pb blaster, let it soak for a while, then hit it with an impact. while youre in there, youre probably going to need new strut mounts too if youve got a fair amount of miles
the suspension in the back plays the important role in getting the car to hook, which results in pulling the tires. check out spohn, a sponsor of the site, up top
you think alinging cars in the south sucks, try doing them up here in salt country. at the local community college, theyve nick named the steering & suspension class heat and beat, lol
the suspension in the back plays the important role in getting the car to hook, which results in pulling the tires. check out spohn, a sponsor of the site, up top
you think alinging cars in the south sucks, try doing them up here in salt country. at the local community college, theyve nick named the steering & suspension class heat and beat, lol
Last edited by KagA152; Apr 11, 2004 at 11:40 PM.
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From: Orland Park, IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
Originally posted by KagA152
you think alinging cars in the south sucks, try doing them up here in salt country. at the local community college, theyve nick named the steering & suspension class heat and beat, lol
you think alinging cars in the south sucks, try doing them up here in salt country. at the local community college, theyve nick named the steering & suspension class heat and beat, lol
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