Any objections/problems with.......
Any objections/problems with.......
ny problems with taking a industrial grinder to the area circled in red?
There is a rubbnig problem on this area from my tires.......
I only plan to remove about .25-.5" total from the area, just so it doesn't rub on my tires.....
Any objections or problem with doing so?
There is a rubbnig problem on this area from my tires.......
I only plan to remove about .25-.5" total from the area, just so it doesn't rub on my tires.....
Any objections or problem with doing so?
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 492
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From: Aurora, ON, Canada
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 4 Spd Auto
I cant see it causing any real problems if your only taking off so little. Maybe you could kind of box the hole which you are grinding out, if you get what i mean?
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
From: Aurora, ON, Canada
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 4 Spd Auto
Ya I would just weld a plate along the bottom of that to close it back off but even if you dont I cant see it being a big problem. It couldnt hurt to close it off though with some metal.
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,340
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From: Orange, Calif
Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
Contact shown in the above pictures is from grounding out. This has no bearing on tire width or rim width. You need stiffer springs. No I would not cut that area.
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Orange, Calif
Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
Originally posted by FLYNLOW92rs
Would some new struts help the cause, and if so, do you have any suggestions?
Would some new struts help the cause, and if so, do you have any suggestions?
To entirely eliminate the problem, you'll need to either increase spring rates to limit travel, or add strut shaft style bumpstops (From Koni) to increase rate before grounding out. Note: these style of bumpstops transfer load to the fenderwells just like the coilover setups do- not as much, but the same principle, so you don't want this as a primary componant. Only to be used for the occational very hard impact and extra travel prevention under extreme conditions. In otherwords, you don't want to be riding on them all the time.
Thomas (House of Camaros) has a used set of springs at his shop that look about identical in thickness to what I'm running up front. (they are blue) I asked him out of curiosity if he knew what they were and all he could tell me is they were much stiffer than the WS6 springs. I told him they looked just like my Suspension Spring Specialists blue coil springs.
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 42
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From: South West.Near Stroud.
Car: 1990 Z28,1980 Z28 CAMARO
Engine: 1980 Z28 350,1990 Z28 454 TRANSPLANT IN PROGRESS
Transmission: TH400 WITH GEAR VENDORS.
I wouldnt cut this at all!!!!!
Hi there,i would not cut this section out at all,the thing is this box section is a stress member,and part the structure of the front of the car,if you did cut the lip of,then i would box it with little tacks,do not seam weld this as some of these sections are heat treated and the heat would Trash the strength of this section.But if you can avoid cutting it at all.
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,886
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From: Jacksonville, NC
Car: Guess
Engine: Crazy 8
Transmission: So close to being a manual I can taste it
I would agree not to cut on that area at all. How bad is your tire rubbing? All the time, so bad that it causes a safety issue with the tire being cut through? I assume its not something you could live with or else you wouldn't be asking. Try to do as he said up above with stiffer springs...
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