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Anyone have experience with Slotted Rotors???? (Power Slot)

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Old 07-13-2004, 11:08 AM
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Anyone have experience with Slotted Rotors???? (Power Slot)

I know somebody is going to tell me to search the forum for info... Well I already did... the entire argument regarding rotor effiency is a confusing mess (especially for people like me who just want to buy a good street rotor)

All I am asking is this... If you have every used Power Slot rotors or another kind of slotted (not-cross drilled) rotor then please tell me your expeirence.

I am not asking... your opinion of cross-drilled rotors... Im not going to buy them. Nore am I asking someone who hasn't had power slots, yet thinks they are bad (probably because they own a set of drilled rotors)

If you owned a set of these brakes or use them at the moment please give me your feed back.
Old 07-13-2004, 11:45 AM
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Well, when I bought my brakes from Baer, they said the slotting was for cosmetic purposes only (with today's technology), so I got regular rotors.
Old 07-13-2004, 01:23 PM
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I have Pwoerslot rotors on the front end of the car right now. They are not very good quality metal- I have warped them severely three different times now in aprox 1 1/2years and have to keep taking material off to re-true them which in turn makes them even weaker. I would suggest sticking with stock GM rotors. GM's metal is better quality.

I am changing my setups to the Wilwoods right now because I can not keep "durable" rotors on this car- they stop fine, but they warp (No its not hotspots- they warp)

Picture of them on this page below-
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/518752/1
Old 07-13-2004, 02:57 PM
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Thats kind of what I expected... I have heard so many negative comments and so few positive concerning PowerSlots. I guess not getting any kind of drilled or slotted brake rotor will save some money....

Aren't there any kind of regular (non-drilled or slotted) rotors better than GM stock????? I keep hearing that good after market pads (ceramic or composit) tend to wear down stock rotors.
Old 07-13-2004, 03:01 PM
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OH BTW: vsixtoy... I like your car! that paint scheme is really unique. I saw a one of a kind paint job on a 3rd gen camaro at the movies the other day... It was kind of nasty though... purple with double lime green stripes! It was actually really gross! But yours looks cool!
Old 07-13-2004, 03:13 PM
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Originally posted by vsixtoy
I have Pwoerslot rotors on the front end of the car right now. They are not very good quality metal- I have warped them severely three different times now in aprox 1 1/2years and have to keep taking material off to re-true them which in turn makes them even weaker. I would suggest sticking with stock GM rotors. GM's metal is better quality.

I am changing my setups to the Wilwoods right now because I can not keep "durable" rotors on this car- they stop fine, but they warp (No its not hotspots- they warp)

Picture of them on this page below-
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/518752/1
learn not not sit holding you brakes after doing a few hot laps
Old 07-13-2004, 03:39 PM
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Originally posted by rx7speed
learn not not sit holding you brakes after doing a few hot laps
Thanks for the suggestion, but it happens over time from ordinary street driving. I am experienced enough to not sit on my rotors when I get them hot.- I ALWAYS stop about 1-2 spaces back on a freeway offramp and gradually creep forward waiting for the light when I do get on them- It still warps, Cheap metal.
Old 07-13-2004, 03:57 PM
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I am currently running slotted rotors on all 4 corners of my GTA. I purchased mine from a shop on eBay and haven't had any trouble to date. I have not used the PowerSlot brand so I can't comment on them directly.

I also ran AutoSpecialty cross-drilled rotors on the front of my car prior to upgrading to 1LE front brakes and never had any trouble with them either. Any rotor will be a problem if it's made from poor quality material.
Old 07-13-2004, 04:31 PM
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Originally posted by vsixtoy
Thanks for the suggestion, but it happens over time from ordinary street driving. I am experienced enough to not sit on my rotors when I get them hot.- I ALWAYS stop about 1-2 spaces back on a freeway offramp and gradually creep forward waiting for the light when I do get on them- It still warps, Cheap metal.
oh I know it happens and even more so with grabby pads.
just part of life. just giving you some crap
better ventalation, nicer pads, and vented rotors should help though right?



if nothing else you could always have a water injection system too cool the rotors off when you stop by spraying 1L of water at the stop too cool the rotors off
Old 07-14-2004, 06:28 AM
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... and it's also about the right pad for the right application. Like not using a street pad at the track or a track pad on the street.

Between my 4th gen SS (street car) and my 3rd gen T/A (track car), I've yet to warp a rotor. Here's the T/A's current front setup. What's not seen is the brake cooling ducts I added later.
Attached Thumbnails Anyone have experience with Slotted Rotors???? (Power Slot)-front-lugs.jpg  
Old 07-14-2004, 09:23 AM
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I guess my options are doing some kind of brake conversion...

1LE
C4

or... anyone know anything about Power Stop rotors? They make rotors for 1LE and non-1LE. They are cross-drilled. They are not the same as Power Slot. But I dont know anyone who has them
Old 07-14-2004, 09:33 AM
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Originally posted by PF Flyer
... and it's also about the right pad for the right application. Like not using a street pad at the track or a track pad on the street.

Between my 4th gen SS (street car) and my 3rd gen T/A (track car), I've yet to warp a rotor. Here's the T/A's current front setup. What's not seen is the brake cooling ducts I added later.
I ran the same exact pads (Carbon matrix) on Stillen rotors(10.5"also) for about 8 yrs and only had to turn the rotors at brake pad replacement intervals. They would only go slightly out of true like you'd see on any normal everyday car-

Please don't tell me that you think I'm running the wrong combination of parts- as stated above- I said the Powerslot rotors are cheaply made.
Old 07-14-2004, 09:42 AM
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PF, having a 12" rotor is also going to help. the 10.4" rotors don't have alot of mass to obsorb and disapeat heat. I would tend to agree with dean on this, a rotor from a company like stillen is going to hold up much better.
Old 07-14-2004, 04:01 PM
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Originally posted by merlot-fro
anyone know anything about Power Stop rotors? They make rotors for 1LE and non-1LE. They are cross-drilled. They are not the same as Power Slot. But I dont know anyone who has them
Power Stop is made by AutoSpecialty. I ran these on the front of my GTA while I still had the 10.5" brakes on the car. I never had a problem with these rotors.

http://www.autospecialty.com/html/rotors_9-1-1.html
Old 07-15-2004, 08:30 AM
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So you would say that these were pretty decent rotors?(good quality metal, nice stoping power) and how much do they cost through auto specialty? What kind of pads did you run?
Old 07-15-2004, 11:47 AM
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Originally posted by merlot-fro
So you would say that these were pretty decent rotors?(good quality metal, nice stoping power) and how much do they cost through auto specialty? What kind of pads did you run?
I picked mine up thru a local brake supply shop for around $77 each. For pads, I mainly used Performance Friction Carbon Metallic.

They were good rotors. I still have them sitting in my garage along with the original brakes and spindles. As far as performance, no real improvement in stopping power, but with any 10.5" rotor you won't see much. They're just too small for these cars. Brake pads did seem to last a bit longer though.
Old 07-15-2004, 11:54 AM
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Originally posted by BretD 88GTA
I picked mine up thru a local brake supply shop for around $77 each. For pads, I mainly used Performance Friction Carbon Metallic.

They were good rotors. I still have them sitting in my garage along with the original brakes and spindles. As far as performance, no real improvement in stopping power, but with any 10.5" rotor you won't see much. They're just too small for these cars. Brake pads did seem to last a bit longer though.
In that case I might as well just have my stock rotors reworked at a shop and only upgrade the brake lines and pads.

No need spending extra $$$$ for something that won't stop the car any better than stock.
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