On a budget of 7500 what suspension upgrade? 85 z28
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Banned
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 204
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From: East Texas
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700-R4
On a budget of 7500 what suspension upgrade? 85 z28
I did a search and I still dont' have my question answered.
I will have approx 7500 over the next year to spend...and just curious what would get me skid pad (wanna hit 1g) and 1/4 mile times? I could spend a little more but I do wanna live comfortably hehe
All the work would be done w/ out labor costs just parts btw
I will have approx 7500 over the next year to spend...and just curious what would get me skid pad (wanna hit 1g) and 1/4 mile times? I could spend a little more but I do wanna live comfortably hehe
All the work would be done w/ out labor costs just parts btw
Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
From: Northern NV
Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27
some wide sticky tires
maybe start with a wheel setup that'll give you 275's in front and 295's in back. Like a colorado custom billet wheel where they can set the bs wherever you want so you can fit lotsa tire.
That's what I'm thinkin' about. I'm kinda gettin' tired of my ROH snypers.
maybe start with a wheel setup that'll give you 275's in front and 295's in back. Like a colorado custom billet wheel where they can set the bs wherever you want so you can fit lotsa tire.
That's what I'm thinkin' about. I'm kinda gettin' tired of my ROH snypers.
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,577
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From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
if he really does plan to hit 1g on street tires. big sticky tires are going to be key.
other than that, check out http://www.unbalancedengineering.com they make some really nice parts for our cars, a talk with Jason will yeild spring and damper rates, along with parts of his to help you hit the mark. really I would also look at global-west, and ground-control. for some other parts.
when you start talking 1g+ range, all the little things will be key. it stops being about the parts, and more about the setup. you will have to tweak things, and find just the right alignment specs. I'm sure vsixtoy will post in here, i beleive he went 1.07g with his car, on 245 street tires. I have never had chance to test mine with good sticky tires on it, but i would be i am right at the 1g mark on sticky rubber.
other than that, check out http://www.unbalancedengineering.com they make some really nice parts for our cars, a talk with Jason will yeild spring and damper rates, along with parts of his to help you hit the mark. really I would also look at global-west, and ground-control. for some other parts.
when you start talking 1g+ range, all the little things will be key. it stops being about the parts, and more about the setup. you will have to tweak things, and find just the right alignment specs. I'm sure vsixtoy will post in here, i beleive he went 1.07g with his car, on 245 street tires. I have never had chance to test mine with good sticky tires on it, but i would be i am right at the 1g mark on sticky rubber.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 2,756
Likes: 10
From: Ahead of you...
Car: 1984 LG4 Camaro
Engine: 350 Roller Motor
Transmission: Level 10 700R4
Axle/Gears: Strange 12 bolt 3.42
17" wheels with 275-40-17 rubber all around.
Subframe connectors
Rear control arms
Panhard rod
Adj struts/shocks
Front control arm bushings
Springs all around (racing springs, not lowering springs)
Weight reduction
STB
TQ Arm
Sway bar bushings & endlinks
Properly match sway bars
Baer front brakes is a really good idea also
Subframe connectors
Rear control arms
Panhard rod
Adj struts/shocks
Front control arm bushings
Springs all around (racing springs, not lowering springs)
Weight reduction
STB
TQ Arm
Sway bar bushings & endlinks
Properly match sway bars
Baer front brakes is a really good idea also
Banned
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,340
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From: Orange, Calif
Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
You can hit 1G in just about anything by just running on autoX rubber. Its really not hard to pull a g. With street tires, traction is the key, and to get that you'll need lightness and balance. I don't think it can be done with a V8 without racing tires. my tires are 2/3rds worn and about 1 year old- so I can't even pull the 1.07g lefthander I did when first tested on new street rubber- everythings got to be ideal- things change over time due to wear and fatigue (and driving the frikin wheels off of something all the time)
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 542
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From: Lowell, MA
Car: 91 Formula, 95 GT
Engine: 5.7, 5.0
Transmission: T5, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42:1, ???
Hey Cameron,
Did you get your car yet? https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...5#post1986705. I would go through the car first (with a fine tooth comb) and make sure everything is in good working order, before you start dumping more money into this car.
Did you get your car yet? https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...5#post1986705. I would go through the car first (with a fine tooth comb) and make sure everything is in good working order, before you start dumping more money into this car.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,104
Likes: 1
From: Pensacola, FL
Car: 1999 Saturn SL2
Engine: 4 cylinder
Transmission: 4-speed automatic
As soon as I get the money, I am upgrading my car's suspension/chassis as well. What I will be doing is upgrading suspension components in "sets" that work together with each other. Allow me to explain what I mean.
The first set that I am going to buy will be chassis-stiffening parts. This will include subframe connectors, a strut tower brace and a steering brace. My reasoning behind buying this first is to allow the car to transfer much of the flex that would normally go to the chassis during driving (due to the unibody design) to the suspension. I don't expect the stock suspension to hold up against this too much longer after this, but fortunately a newer, better suspension won't be far behind.
After that, a front end rebuild will come next, along with struts, shocks, springs, lower control arms and LCA relocation brackets. The front end suspension is horribly worn after 20 years of abuse (as well as the other parts) and needs to be replaced. While the front end is being rebuilt, it will be the perfect time to replace the struts and springs as well. I'm planning to go with Eibach's Prokit which will lower the car, so I'm going to buy new LCAs and LCARBs as well. Finally, since the shocks and struts I'm buying come together in a package, the shocks will be replaced at the same time as the struts.
Once all that is done (and once I have more money
), a new panhard bar and torque arm will be needed to replace the weak factory parts.
A new driveshaft will also be added into the mix after all these things are added. Not sure if I want an aluminum one or a Spohn heavy duty one yet. I've heard an aluminum driveshaft is not a good choice for overall strength but the Spohn peice is pricey. I guess the driveshaft wouldn't really be part of the suspension, but I'll include it anyway.
Finally, the wheels and tires will be upgraded. The stock 15x7 wheels that are equipped on the car now will be upgraded with 17x9 ROH Snypers all around and BFGoodrich g-Force KDWs with them.
I'm not completely sure of what this is going to run me, but I'd say a rough estimate of $6500 sounds about right. This is not including any labor paid for welding or parts installation.
Anyway, just in review:
-SFCs
-STB
-steering Brace
-front end rebuild kit
-struts
-shocks
-springs
-lower control arms
-lca relocation brackets
-panhard bar
-torque arm
-driveshaft
-wheels
-tires
That's what I plan on doing. Maybe you can take some of my ideas and put them to good use.
EDIT: I didn't mention that this is hardly a complete list for a suspesion overhaul. There's a lot more stuff that I didn't add such as polyurethane bushing and sways bars that you could upgrade as well.
The first set that I am going to buy will be chassis-stiffening parts. This will include subframe connectors, a strut tower brace and a steering brace. My reasoning behind buying this first is to allow the car to transfer much of the flex that would normally go to the chassis during driving (due to the unibody design) to the suspension. I don't expect the stock suspension to hold up against this too much longer after this, but fortunately a newer, better suspension won't be far behind.
After that, a front end rebuild will come next, along with struts, shocks, springs, lower control arms and LCA relocation brackets. The front end suspension is horribly worn after 20 years of abuse (as well as the other parts) and needs to be replaced. While the front end is being rebuilt, it will be the perfect time to replace the struts and springs as well. I'm planning to go with Eibach's Prokit which will lower the car, so I'm going to buy new LCAs and LCARBs as well. Finally, since the shocks and struts I'm buying come together in a package, the shocks will be replaced at the same time as the struts.
Once all that is done (and once I have more money
), a new panhard bar and torque arm will be needed to replace the weak factory parts.A new driveshaft will also be added into the mix after all these things are added. Not sure if I want an aluminum one or a Spohn heavy duty one yet. I've heard an aluminum driveshaft is not a good choice for overall strength but the Spohn peice is pricey. I guess the driveshaft wouldn't really be part of the suspension, but I'll include it anyway.
Finally, the wheels and tires will be upgraded. The stock 15x7 wheels that are equipped on the car now will be upgraded with 17x9 ROH Snypers all around and BFGoodrich g-Force KDWs with them.
I'm not completely sure of what this is going to run me, but I'd say a rough estimate of $6500 sounds about right. This is not including any labor paid for welding or parts installation.
Anyway, just in review:
-SFCs
-STB
-steering Brace
-front end rebuild kit
-struts
-shocks
-springs
-lower control arms
-lca relocation brackets
-panhard bar
-torque arm
-driveshaft
-wheels
-tires
That's what I plan on doing. Maybe you can take some of my ideas and put them to good use.
EDIT: I didn't mention that this is hardly a complete list for a suspesion overhaul. There's a lot more stuff that I didn't add such as polyurethane bushing and sways bars that you could upgrade as well.
Last edited by Nate86; Sep 2, 2004 at 04:14 PM.
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: East Texas
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700-R4
Wow guys thanks for the advice! So many things..../sigh lol
What kind of ride can I expect with all these mods? Is it going to be a really tight rough ride? or is it going to handle fast speeds better? I have no clue what to expect?
I can't wait to get started, I really want an all around mean car that doesn't have a roll cage (it is supposed to run mid 11's /sigh so I can only get one good run in before they kick me off the track) another stupid question, will 10/90 drag shocks make me pull front tires off the ground? And does it affect track time?
No I haven't gotten the car yet, if I don't get it soon I am calling up the third gen guys that own baseball bats and we are all going to go to town on this guys dealer ship (it in PA so everyone get ready to pack your bags)
I just started a new college and there are probably 15 or so honda's that have huge tachs that I can see through the window. I have been cruising looking for the best spot to drag at and haven't found a very flat one or even straight (east texas and those curve ridden roads)
I am sizing people up and hopefully I can start making money off these guys in no time. I plan on taking the car to rockwall asap and get some track times set...
What kind of ride can I expect with all these mods? Is it going to be a really tight rough ride? or is it going to handle fast speeds better? I have no clue what to expect?
I can't wait to get started, I really want an all around mean car that doesn't have a roll cage (it is supposed to run mid 11's /sigh so I can only get one good run in before they kick me off the track) another stupid question, will 10/90 drag shocks make me pull front tires off the ground? And does it affect track time?
No I haven't gotten the car yet, if I don't get it soon I am calling up the third gen guys that own baseball bats and we are all going to go to town on this guys dealer ship (it in PA so everyone get ready to pack your bags)
I just started a new college and there are probably 15 or so honda's that have huge tachs that I can see through the window. I have been cruising looking for the best spot to drag at and haven't found a very flat one or even straight (east texas and those curve ridden roads)
I am sizing people up and hopefully I can start making money off these guys in no time. I plan on taking the car to rockwall asap and get some track times set...
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,104
Likes: 1
From: Pensacola, FL
Car: 1999 Saturn SL2
Engine: 4 cylinder
Transmission: 4-speed automatic
I can't speak out of experience but the more you put into the suspension of your car, the harsher the ride is going to feel, but the better the car is going to handle.
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