Has any one heard of Modified Strut Camber Brackets for a Third Gen. They are supposed to eliminate front end plow, and understeer by increasing negative camber. If they exist who might sell these, and or where can I get more information on them? Thanks, Cocacolakidd

 

I remember seeing such a kit somewhere- where though...?

What I do remember about it was it was not something you'd want to put onto you car.

Reason is they were trying to use this kit to increase neg camber by altering the mounting angle of the strut to the spindle. With very narrow tires, you might get away with a little gain before making contact with the upper portion of the strut with the tire sidewall. I personally remember thinking it was not safe the way they were altering that bolt sequence, thats a MAJOR support link to the front suspension and not something relocated cause a weakening of the load leverage applied to this area.

Best to get camber up top with the strut mount.

More camber and caster will improve front end bite on turn-in ( this actually make you fight the steering wheel harder though on turn-in, but easier to turn-out of a corner from a comfort control aspect) but will suffer from premature tirewear if too much is increased and used for daily straightline driving. Any more than about +5 caster will start to create noticible bumpsteer, and any more than about -.75 camber will start to show inside edge tirewear.

Slower speed events such as AutoXing will call for generally small amounts of caster and large amounts of neg camber. Also combined with a wider toe setting. This all helps turn-in if a car is balanced without alot of weight transfer rear to front.

Basically what I'm getting at is you want to try and control the push with the suspension componants and wieight bias of the car, then fine tune the camber and caster to how the car reacts best at the speeds your drivng.

 

I want to elaborate on this a little more-

If a car is plowing badly- and you take that car ind increase neg camber on the frontend fairly drastically, what is going to happen is it will still plow- however-

before= it will plow fairly nose straight pushing drirectly troungh the corner and keep the car heading in a straight ahead atittude.

after(with increased neg camber)= car will do a sudden bite with wheel cranked agressively into a sharp corner, and insead of progressing nose forward, the car will bite to the corner just slightly enough to balance and pitch the rear enough, but then will still plow in a forwardly direction with the car atittude at a more 45* angle. Car srcubs speed until nose bites harder, then a massive snap around and major oversteer as power is applied.

You need to correct your rear to front weight transfer with stiffer balanced springs and good shocks. And front to rear on exit for that matter. Camber is merely tire grip through the corner.

 

Want a little more camber? http://www.ingallseng.com/parts/81280.htm

 

Thanks, I understood all of the above. In other words for a car that is used for daily driving, and weekend racing, it best left with the factory settings...thanks.

 

that wasnt what he was saying at all.. he was just explaining how it works.


and just FYI, you still have camber and caster adjustment with the stock stuff.



straight from the FAQ on the main page:

 

Thats the kit I have seen and highly recommend staying away from. Those bolts are normally torqued to about 200lbs. In order to make this kit feasible into the factory holes, they reduced the thickness of the bolt to allow for cam style adjustment.

Dude is correct- I was talking about the use of factory adjustments being availiable already, and not about leaving stock factory alignment settings.

 

I have a better understanding of it now, and how to set it for different uses. Thank you.

 

Spohn makes a upper strut mount. It’s a Billet Spherical Upper Strut Mount with an extra 1/4" of negative camber adjustment built into them. They also feature a Teflon coated replaceable spherical bearing ( Spohn.Item: 951 ).

I’m sure though, that to use these correctly, I would have to have the car on the alignment rack each time I went to a road race course , and again on the rack when going back to street use.

Spohn also have Billet Medium Height Mounts, but they do not allow one to dial in any extra negative camber, they are just stock replacements,

I’m rebuilding my suspension totally, so it’s a toss up whether to go with the Spohn medium height mount, for the better quality and look, or just new GM OEM replacement. Thank you…

 

The very best thing you can do for you car in steering response is to install the solid bearing mounts (Spohn only sells them currently). The 1/4"more neg will only matter if you are racing the car full time. My experience is that the HMS mounts I have (which are basically the same) can only be set so far over until you make contact with the master brake cylinder. If I ever wanted, I could simply route the adjustment grooves for camber into longer slots, I have the room this. But to get over -1*, I would have to relocate the master cylinder.

An Improtant note- A strut tower brace will basically do nothing to maintain camber setting under hard cornering unless you get rid of the factory rubber bushing strut mounts and go to a solid design. No matter how much you berrace the strut towers, the rubber bushings will flex and cause the strut shaft to change angles.

 

Here's a picture of my current setting at about -.8* camber on the drivers side. You can see the minimal clearence if moved towards the MC.

 

id like to point out that for a street driven car, 99.999999999999999999% of us are never going to set it to more then 6*.. thats a heck of alot for a street car anyway.


so no worries.

 

well i was reading and i really dont know wat the guy wants but i'll be getting caster camber plates soon and there only $165.00.thats like the best deal u can idependently adjust camber and caster.

 

dude..
the billet ones hes talking about are $350.

the other ones are replacement STOCK ones.

you have independent camber and caster adjustment from the factory.

 

were are thoose billet ones?and i have adjusment from factory?how can i do that?

 

You can get the billet strut mounts from Spohn, check the link at the top of the page. The adjustments you are talking about are nothing more that your basic front end alignment.

 

Spohn does have two different sets of upper strut mounts. These replace the factory OEM rubber mounts. The set I have are Solid bearing type, but these are the standard model. They also have a billet spherical model that, as I understand it have allot of adjustment available with them. I am thinking that 5* is the most I am going to with the caster and -1* on the camber with out having to go back and forth to the alignment rack.

 

I've been looking at the Ground Control plates since I need as much negative camber as possible (its a drifting thing). But I think I might be able to find the same product cheaper elsewhere ... just gotta keep looking.

 

crazy i know a website the sells a awesome pair of performance camber /caster plates for 165.00

 

share it with us all then...


but just FYI, theres a extremely high chance they're just the stock ones.


btw on a side note... 15mins with a file or drill by hand and you have more adjustment with the stock one too.. lol.

 

okay guys here the website.

http://www.hotpart.com/index.php?p=show&id=38

 

WOHA!

new part!

SCHWEET...


it replaces the rubber bushing with a bearing, just like i want.... and its reasonably priced! kickass!

anyone here used them? heck, im going to make a new thread.

 

well wat u guys think about them?i will be getting them in like 3 weeks for a scca solo2 event i may enter

 

Does any one have any experience with the Caster Camber Plates from Hot Part.com, or any experience this way. By looking at them they make me think it's a way to gain a little more room up-top for my struts . My Z is lowered, and I'm about to get new struts/shocks front and rear, so I'm thinking that to add back a little travel to the struts is a good thing. The Hot Part Plates allow for spacing them up from standard position. The only thing I can see for a draw back is that they may add extra movement because of this upward spacing (not as much contact as the normal mount, thus allowing for extra flex in their design). Not being familiar with them, all of the above is a question of course. Thanks, Ed.

 

Don't think those plates are a good idea for lowered cars, I remember reading a thread where vsixtoy explained it all... Lemme see if I can find it..

Here we go:
Here's the link:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=257148

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=259787

that is another link, where Myself and Dean call the the maker of those mounts out, about the spacers.... read for your own entertainment.

 

Well all of the above answered allot. I searched for other threads earlier, but did not find those mentioned above - great information there. I'm now thinking about removing my lowering springs and trying further to find lowering spindles to regain good ride and good front geometry. Does any one know why the lowering spindles are becoming extinct (no longer on the market)? I have found two manufacturers that once made them ( Eibach and Belltech), but can not find them through any distributor yet. I would keep my Spohn Standard strut mounts and go with WS6 springs and the lowering spindles - seems like a much better way to go than my lowering springs. Thanks for all, Ed.