Im looking for some input on what works and what doesnt on third gens. Im looking for a street setup for my 92 rs camaro. Post up on individual parts you have experiance with or the suspension setup as a whole.

 

this is my suspension setup..

Front:

Eibach Sportline Springs
KYB gr2 struts (will be upgrading to bilsteins)
Pro Fab tubular lower control arms
Pro Fab tubular K member
mustang cobra power rack and pinion
PST poly offset rack bushings
D&D motorsports bump steer kit
energy suspension endlinks
prothane sway bar bushings
36mm hollow sway bar

Rear:

Eibach Sportline springs
KYB gas adjust shocks (bilsteins soon)
Spohn tubular non adjustable LCAs
Spohn tubular adjustable panhard bar
Spohn reloc brackets
prothane endlinks
prothane sway bar bushings
24mm sway bar

stock torque arm for now, when i get the money ill buy a jegster or similar design torque arm


im happy with just about everything i bought, except for the K member and A arms, tehy are great peices but i dont like how pro fab treated me when i bought them. everything has fit great and looks awesome. i havent driven on any of it yet, but soon...

 

let me know how its rides

 

what do you want to know....i've had it all on my old car.

 

look at my sig....I LOVE THE SETUP, doesnt ride too harsh and the handling is amazing. Also had great traction at the track with my 15x7 RS rims and 215/65/r15 Goodyear GTII tires, 2.007 60' times

 

hey... SLP IROC-Z wat did that cost u overall........

 

i had the springs in when the car was on the road it road wicked good suprisingly, alot beter then the factory springs, handled the ***** tooo

 

lol i dont even want to ad up the total ill cry

 

yea but i was wondering if u knew casue that sounds like a sweet setup to save up for................

 

lets see here...
700 for the control arms and k member
240 for the springs
150 for the KYBs, but the bilsteins are like 420, the KYBs cant handl the eibach springs
400 worth of spohn stuff including most of the poly bushings
80 for the bump steer kit
185 for the rack and pinion steering shaft

 

SLP IROC-Z how hard was it to install the cobra rack and pinion setup in your car? I want to shed some weight, and not have to worry about all the joints in the manual steering setup on my car, and was really sad when I found that no one has done with ease a 4th gen rack and pinion... but a cobra one works? what years?

 

i've got a real budget setup..

(from junkyard)
34mm front bar from an 84 ws6
22mm rear from the same car
iroc wonderbar
rear lower control arm boxing brackets from an '85 z
gta wheels w/ 245/50r16 dunlop sp sport a2's

(bought elsewhere)
kyb gr2 struts and gas a just shocks
edelbrock 3pt stb
energy suspension polyurethane sway bar bushings/endlinks/tranny mount (the black stuff)
sprint springs
spohn adjustable poly/spherical panhard rod
spohn sfc's

HUGE improvement over my stock FE1 suspension with 190xxx miles on it.. car handles like its on rails with minimal body roll, but rides pretty rough

here are a couple of pics showing body roll at the limit of traction.. keep in mind the newer pic is without the new springs..

 

Hold on to your hats, I just posted this yesterday on the V6 forum with everyone asking what you have done to your car. I think it will be entertaining and apply here also. I would love to see Kandied's list too- I'm sure its long
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I have some free time- lets have some fun seeing if I can label everything I have done to this car.

Started life as a Limited production '87 Calif Edition RS Camaro with a custom dealer paint scheme.

I have added-

*'87 IROC 16x8 rims that I had chromed- Rims then were balanced grinded to ensure perfect balance before tires were ever fitted. Reducing the need for much balance weight when tires are mounted
*Multiple sets of high dollar performance tires- currently Goodyear F1 GS-D3's
*Arp racing studs
*Kuyokugen lightweight 7-sided racing lugnuts
*'87 IROC 10-bolt with rear discs, 3.23's and posi (I'll get more into this later- It has been modified from this stock point)
*Various sets of stock front and rear 10.5" performance rotors and pads. Mainly Stillen brake rotors and pads were best by far in the 10.5" iron caliper catagory.
* finally after years of not keeping "reliable" (meaning long lasting without warping) brakes on the car I decided to upgrade them- Wilwood LS1 12.2x.810 4pot rears with internal drum parking brake assembly.
*Lokar custom fit steelbraided E-brake cables and clevis, stock parking lever adjuster removed and part of assembly altered
*Fronts are 6pot 13x1.25 Wilwood -Biggest anyone can get under a stock 16" iroc rim- Everything custom made and fitted from scratch. Spindles shaved for weight reduction
*GW custom billet aluminum front hubs
*Custom alum hubcentric wheel spacers to set proper scrub pattern with new front brake setup
*Earls braided brake lines
*Earls Solo-bleed fluid valves
*1LE prop valve (I have recently put a new booster on also in the past two years.)
*Suspension Spring Specialist 800lb front linear springs trimmed to ride height. Final rate aprox 810-820lbs from trimming to exact desired height
*rear Progressive rate springs 145-225lb max
*Koni shaft style progessive rate bumpstops that are setup to assist the rear spring rate even further progessively to help induce a certain disired amount of cornering squat
*Koni "yellow" sport struts & shocks on max setting front and 1click down from max on rears
*Custom billet aluminum HMS strut mounts with special Aurora HD racing bearings. Also had them polished.
*Fairly agressive alignment specs for being used on the street everyday. If I didn't occationally drive this car hard, the wifes daily driving would cause uneven tire wear.
*Eldebrock TPI 3pt strut tower brace
*GW steering brace (Car already has a quick ratio 2.25 lock to lock steering box from factory)
*Custom welded upper rear steering box brace (pre-loaded and removable)
*Custom welded trans tunnel/rear control are brace (pre-loaded and removable)
*Baer bumpsteer alum adj rodended tierods sleeves
*Spohn 34mm solid chromemoly front swaybar
*HD front swaybar frame mounts so the bar does not pull out of the frame under hard cornering
*Front grill and airboxes modified to alter airflow patterns into the nose of the car
*Custom 4 core brass radiator then fitted still utilizing stock electric fan for now (This will all change by next summer- current project started going to a complete custom one of a kind cooling system with electric waterpump and BeCool rad on a 60*V6)
*Dual highflow air filters
*A/C system completely updated to a "new" R-134 setup. Not the old R-12 compressor converted.
*Darrell Young Racing "completely custom" (Not off the shelf) 700r4 with everything internally gutted and upgraded.
*Custom made V8 torque convertor fitted to V6 tranny (Tranny has V8 imput shaft)
*ACPT carbon fiber 4lb driveshaft with Spicer u-joints. Spohn driveshaft loop cut back off at this point- No more concern about a high speed polevault with the brooming carbon fiber safety system
*rebuilt 10bolt rearend with new bearings, seals and kept the taller 3.23's in it. I like this ratio on the road better than the 3.42's. They have a broader power range through corners and higher top end without going into O.D.- Good for roadracing.
*"Roadrace" version Auburn Posi
*Aluminum diff cover with bearing cap preloads
*BMR bolt-on relocation brackets (I welded them into place) Why bolt-ons? They have a secondary support brace that the weld-on styles don't- strengthens the shock mount for a future coilover rear conversion. I was thinking ahead, but don't now think I'll ever bother doing it.
*Spohn chromemoly TQarm with solid trans mount crossmember with driveshaft loop. I also fitted the front solid mount with a larger HD Aurora rodend.
*ES poly trans mount
*25mm chromemoly Spohn rear swaybar with HD axle mounts.
*Spohn chromemoly adj LCA's with special HD Aurora rodends also added- Radius arm swing shorteneds as much as possible to induce roll understeer when cornering
*Tubular panhard rod (Future changes will be made here to add roll center adj provisions)
*Spohn tubular suframe connectors. I installed myself and shear welded them along the subframe. Custom bend trianglar inboard braces and welded them to the floorboard also. 1) to gain catalytic convertor height for ground clearance. 2) Direct bracing design- stronger and ties into, not laying on top like original Spohn design. he doesn't do this for ease of install for the average person.
*The entire floorboad is cleaned and epoxy painted to help prevent corrision.
*PF&E custom stainless steel headers (One of a kind. Stainless retains heat and is much perfered for racing, and for life expectancy of headers) Headers not installed yet along with various other engine componants I will list and are collecting to install together.
*Headers are also ceramic coated
*Gibson high flow catalytic convertor. 2 1/2" in and out
*Catback exhaust completely redone with 2 1/2" pipe. Tucked under floorboard as tight as possible (It doesn't hang down like over the counter exhuasts do). Aftermarket exhaust hangers welded on and system welded together, not clamped
*Flowmaster 80 muffler with 1.75" dual exits (Not the crappy sounding large 2 1/2" duals)
*'89 Vette in-tank fuelpump. Higher pressure and flow with metal internals. Stock pump has plastic internals.
*Fuel pressure raised slightly (Neighbor [professional auto repair owner and race motor builder] did this for me after scanning it with a Diacom and realising it was running lean. Don't know if he took it apart and shimmed the FPR or what. I haven't ever had it apart to see after he messed with it.
*62mm EDP billet alum TB (discountinued- but I have a new one)
*Custom home made alum plenum
*Polished intake runners to injectors. Polished stock plenum neck as much as possible and also blocked the EGR to prevent the notorious carbon buildup(Ported and polished on uninstalled setup- I have another complete intake manifold for the new motor)
*19lb injectors (Own, but not installed I am only listing things I currently own. If not installed yet, I will list "Not installed". Otherwise they are on the car)
*1.52 roller tip rockers installed currently
*Fiero alum valvecovers (not installed)
*140amp polished Alt with custom bracket
*ASP crankshaft underdrive pulley
*new design tensioner
*idlepulley for waterpump delete project (not installed)
*timing cover with electric WP fitting TIG welded in place (not installed)
*aftermarket prom chip- programed for 180* running temp
*New distributor with A/C Delco module and dist based drilled for added cooling
*53,000volt Hypertech ignition coil. (Stock is 38,000, MSD is 48,000) Coil underneath further heatshielded from exhaust manifold
*Taylor 10.4mm race wires
*Taylor fire sleeves to heat shield the spark plug cable boots
*EVERY sensor in the computer system loop has been replace with a new A/C Delco units within the past 2 years- everything is perfect. A/C delco sensors and module are the best money can buy. They have great insulation against heat and will out perform anything else in the short and long run- don't ever buy any other brand.
*3 years ago I had a new 2.8 GM crate motor put into it (not rebuilt) It has currently about 35,000 on it.
*MobilOne full synthetic 15W50 oil in every car I drive.
*40below and swimming pool ("treated") water in the cooling system
*Deleted the TB coolant lines entirely for ease of plenum removal.
* 13 degree timing advance. stock is 10*
*redid the headliner
*LaCarrera polished 4-spoke steering wheel and polished billet hub with black bowtie engraved horn insert.
*Pioneer 1.5din CD player reciever unit- no amps. This unit doesn't need it. It has much much better sound than the factory ERS system. Amps add too much weight anyways- I'm into handling so I personally don't care for that crap in a car. I have a home system that will drowned out any ******* neighbor playing their crappy thump thump music in the rare case that happens in my neighborhood. Loud music doesn't belong in an automobile (My personal opinion) One need to listen to the noises your car is telling you when you drive- especially when pressing a car (A big tip for novice drivers.)
*Forgot about the Sylvainia Silverstar headlamps both low and high beams
*Triple edge lifetime wiperblades
*Personalized license plate reading: ON A RAIL
*Autolite DoublePlatinum plugs
*Diehard Roadhandler battery
*Does the matching painted floorjack count? :shrug: I was bored

I'm sure I have missed several things- but that gives a general idea as to what can go into a Camaro that is still a daily driver and not particularly care to be a show car. I'll let you guys add up what I have into it dollar wise- and certainly don't forget my labor time customising all the crap.

And remember, I have just scratched the surface on buying engine parts. I can't drive anything stock that someone else might pull up next to me with the same identical car. I have a reputation to protect

EDIT: And a sidenote for you people around here boasting sigintures on what your car has? Just be glad I don't have all this crap in mine and you'd have to sort past it every time I post- Food for thought.