Does anyone know of any way to remove the motor mounts in a 1988 camaro without taking the lower A-arm out. I dont want to have to do that if i dont have to but I cant seem to be able to get to the nuts on the bottom.

 

someone else on here had mentioned using a swivel socket when i was asking about mine.

 

You have to get real creatine with extensions, a swivel, a 15mm socket on the bottom and a 15mm wrench on the top. I changed both of mine with the spring and control arm in place. I did it by myself, but an extra set of hands would have helped.

 

Could not of said it better myself! It took a while but way better that having to drop the A arms. What also helped was putting a small magnet in side the socket to keep the nut in when taking them out. Also I recomend putting the nuts and bolts in the opposite way you took them out buy putting them in the bolts in though the bottem and nuts on the top (easy way) instead of the nuts on the bottom and and bolts on the top (stock way).


Kevin

 

I used extensions, a socket and some long wrenches. There's a slot in the k-member where you can slide some long box end wrenches or some long offset box end wrenches. The slot is for one or both of the top 2 bolts and is on the rear side of the k-member. I used the socket and extensions when the wrenches wouldn't reach. That would be for the bottom one or one of the top 2 bolts. Where the wrench reached, it was easier to put a ratchet or another wrench on top and work it freely.

Once I figured out what went where on one side, the other side was done in less than 30 minutes. To put the bolts back, some silicon adhesive on the wrench or socket to hold the nut in place worked wonders.

 

we did this on my brothers car when we swapped engines ....

you need to get about 12 inches of extensions a swivel 15 mm socket or a swivel adapter and a plain 15 mm socket ..this will work for 2 of the three easily but the last one we took a cheap *** 15 mm wrench ...(walmart brand) and a propane torch and heated it up in the vise and bent it over with a hammer to the correct angle ...this will take a few tries but its not too difficult then i stood on the top and my brother got under the car and put the wrench on the nut and i loosened them up with a impact ....

only took us about an hour to do

 

I've been told I can swap out the motor mounts with the engine still in the car. Is that true? With the car on jackstands, use the floorjack (and piece of wood to prevent denting the oil pan) to jack the engine up just a little and should have enough clearance to swap the mount. For those of you that have already done the swap, what do you think? One of my motor mounts is a goner, causing the tranny to contact the tunnel when I punch it from a stop. I was hoping to replace the one bad mount with a stock replacement without having to pull the engine or a-arm. Sound do-able??

 

Yes, I did it with the engine in the car (as have alot of other folks). It's easier without it in.

 

That'd be because theres no engine to be in teh way...

 

sounds like you need to replace your tranny mount too ....

 

Thats what I thought too. I had that happen to me in the past with my 89 RS and 700R4, bad tranny mount. But this time I checked out the tranny mount and it was good. The noise boggled my mind until my Uncle heard it last week and automatically said motor mount (I guess since the contact against the trans tunnel is kinda hard). Checked em out and sure enough its the motor mount. I couldnt believe it!! Thats the last thing I needed right now!! hahaha. Thanks for the help guys, plan to do the mount this weekend.

Just wondering if I should do both mounts even though only one broke. My lazy side says do the other one if it breaks later, but my proactive side says do both since the other one will probably break too. hahahahaha