spohn torque arm
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: buffalo
Car: 85 camaro
Engine: 327
Transmission: 350, 6200 stall, w/ brake
Axle/Gears: soon to be strange 5.14
spohn torque arm
ive been doing some research on the spohn torque arm. its my understanding that they are the best. but just bolting it in? im sure theres someone out there thats welded it in. anybody with pictures? id like to hear some feedback about them. it sounds pretty good but just bolting it on sounds kinda sketchy.
what? Why would you bolt it in? Sketchy? That's how your car came from the factory. Trust me, you want the ability to remove the rear and and transmission.
Last edited by 25THRSS; Nov 30, 2004 at 08:55 PM.
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From: Upland Pa
Car: Camaro Vert
Engine: 355 HSR
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 S60
Its just bolts right in.. There is no need to weld it at all. If you do, and say your trans blows, how are you going to remove the x-member to remove the tranny?
When Steve desinged the setup, he designed it with it being 100% bolt in. About the only thing he sells that have to be welded are the SFC's and relocation brackets. Thats about all I can think of at the moement.
I'm actually going to be putting his one for a t56 with a rod end in my iroc this weekend. If ya want I can snap a few pics.
Kat
When Steve desinged the setup, he designed it with it being 100% bolt in. About the only thing he sells that have to be welded are the SFC's and relocation brackets. Thats about all I can think of at the moement.I'm actually going to be putting his one for a t56 with a rod end in my iroc this weekend. If ya want I can snap a few pics.
Kat
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 2,341
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From: Cincinnati,Ohio
Car: 1991 BandittII Firebird
Engine: 5.7 HSR
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt
Originally posted by Kat
Its just bolts right in.. There is no need to weld it at all. If you do, and say your trans blows, how are you going to remove the x-member to remove the tranny?
When Steve desinged the setup, he designed it with it being 100% bolt in. About the only thing he sells that have to be welded are the SFC's and relocation brackets. Thats about all I can think of at the moement.
I'm actually going to be putting his one for a t56 with a rod end in my iroc this weekend. If ya want I can snap a few pics.
Kat
Its just bolts right in.. There is no need to weld it at all. If you do, and say your trans blows, how are you going to remove the x-member to remove the tranny?
When Steve desinged the setup, he designed it with it being 100% bolt in. About the only thing he sells that have to be welded are the SFC's and relocation brackets. Thats about all I can think of at the moement.I'm actually going to be putting his one for a t56 with a rod end in my iroc this weekend. If ya want I can snap a few pics.
Kat
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From: Northern CA.
Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
Yup, big beefy bolts. Here's the mounting setup on my Currie 9" with Spohn's torque arm. Big bolts all around
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
yeah i love the big bolts, someone put the rear bolt in upside down(after some rearend work i suppose) so now i can't get my torque arm off without cutting the bolt
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Orange, Calif
Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
Originally posted by kretos
yeah i love the big bolts, someone put the rear bolt in upside down(after some rearend work i suppose) so now i can't get my torque arm off without cutting the bolt
yeah i love the big bolts, someone put the rear bolt in upside down(after some rearend work i suppose) so now i can't get my torque arm off without cutting the bolt
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 9,550
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by kretos
yeah i love the big bolts, someone put the rear bolt in upside down(after some rearend work i suppose) so now i can't get my torque arm off without cutting the bolt
yeah i love the big bolts, someone put the rear bolt in upside down(after some rearend work i suppose) so now i can't get my torque arm off without cutting the bolt
try this:
take the jackstands from under the rear.
stick them under the chassis of the car...
TADA! the rear is at the bottom of its travel, and you can slide the bolt out the top.... and up and up..... as theres LOTS of room... lol.
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
LOL that's what I did when I installed my Spohn TQ ARM. But I put the bolt in that way for another reason... I was to lazy to try to spin the nut on from the topside. 
As for welding the TQ Arm I'll mention the point that the arm is designed to pivot as the rear end adjusts for weight load or road conditions so it wouldn't be smart to weld the front, the crossmember has already been mentioned. Else you're going to end up with some major binding. As for welding the backs that's also not a good idea for the same reason... the back bracket wouldn't work out well welded either just for the fact thirdgen guys like swapping out rear ends from time to time.

As for welding the TQ Arm I'll mention the point that the arm is designed to pivot as the rear end adjusts for weight load or road conditions so it wouldn't be smart to weld the front, the crossmember has already been mentioned. Else you're going to end up with some major binding. As for welding the backs that's also not a good idea for the same reason... the back bracket wouldn't work out well welded either just for the fact thirdgen guys like swapping out rear ends from time to time.
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umm for those of us that have the McLeod T56 (which if you dont know requires to take 1" out of the drive shaft and 1" out of the torque arm) what options are there for us other than completely fabricating a new one from scratch?
Dont Worry Dean, Don reinforced it pretty well but i was wondering if there were options in the aftermarket arena.
Dont Worry Dean, Don reinforced it pretty well but i was wondering if there were options in the aftermarket arena.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,204
Likes: 7
From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
Not that I know of, I checked them about 1.5 years back and they were tight still. I did notice my adjustable LCAs were starting to get loose on the adjustor part but once I put my gorrilla grip on it with a massive wrench it's been tight since. Guess I didn't tq them down hard enough to begin with. I would check them all again but since I haven't drove the car in a year I'm not to worried + it's snowing here now.
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From: Upland Pa
Car: Camaro Vert
Engine: 355 HSR
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 S60
Originally posted by bitchin85camaro
do the bolts loosen often?
do the bolts loosen often?
Kat
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,985
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From: Massachusetts
Car: candy blue 85 z28
Engine: 305 tpi LB9
Transmission: 700r4 crazy beefed up one
Axle/Gears: ones with teeth
heres mine before it went in, very heavy peice big upgrade from the stamped steel factory one
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