I'm looking into these for my 82 non T-top trans am, I found a few on ebay that seem to be a good deal, but have a few questions about them.

Keep in mind this isn't a high powered street racing car, this car also is still very tight in pretty much all areas and I'de like to keep it that way since I am going to be using it as a everyday car now.

lets talk about the subframe connectors first, what would be best for my car true bolt up ones, do bolt up ones benefit at all from also welding them in as well. Do they really accomplish all they claim .... If I choose to bolt in and weld them as well, should all the weight be on the tires prior to welding them in place .. any other pro's con's do's dont's please let me know.

Strut tower brace, are these worthwhile on a plain street car, that isn't used for cornering.

I know my car wouldn't benefit much from upgraded rear suspension stuff but let me know if it's worthwhile and noticeable for what my car is going to be used for.

 

Subframes are a "must" for any thirdgen, esp since yours is a t-top. The weld on ones are much better then the bolt ons. When you install these, the car will need to be on its "tires"/own weight. No stands. From my readings, square or boxed is better for drag racing, where tubeular is advised for road race/autox. If you have rough roads, or go over alot of bumps, watch which ones you get because of ground clearance.

Strut brace will give the car a much more "thump" when you hit bumps(annoying to me). But will give a bit more solid feel in cornoring. I say for daily drive, no. However, do find a "wonder bar" aka steering brace. Its about 50-60 and advised for daily use.

Go thru the suspension, replace any bushings. Mainly the ones on the swaybars. Poly is nice, but sometimes creates sqeeks. But new rubber has got to be better then whats on a 20+ yo car.

 

Well, I'd say, stay away from bolt-on unless you just want to put them on yourself until you can get them welded in. I bought the bolt-on Alstons from TDS and they made a difference. After nearly a year I was becoming disenchanted with the creaks and squeaks the car was beginning to make. I had been wondering if welding the SFC's would make a difference so I decided to get some SPOHN SFC's and get both sets welded in. All I can say is get the weld-in's. You be glad you did. Bolt-ins loose their effectiveness after a while. Welding them was a night and day difference from bolt-in.

 

Bolt-ins are nice, but you shouldn't wait too long before welding them or the holes will elongate and it'll be like you never bolted the connectors on in the first place.

 

I've heard of these wonderbars, they are down by the front sway bar correct. will ones of a late model F-Body fit my car, I've heard there were two different bolt patterns for the sway bars through the years.

I have a friend who is a professional welder so welding the subframe connectors in immediately wont be a problem, as for bushings this is a 80,000 mile car so it's still a very tight car, I also have a complete WS-6 suspension from a trans am, so I might install this on the car as well.

thanks for your help

 

You're correct on the different bolt patterns.

To my knowledge TDS [they're a sponsor at the top of the page] is the only company that makes a wonderbar that will fit any 82-92 car, most other companies only fit 84+ IIRC.

I've bought two wonderbars and two sets of Alston SFCs from Lon @ TDS and both sets have been great.

 

Jproz1167, your correct. Didnt think about that.

TDS up top does sell one that will fit 82's.

Even with 80k, I'd still replace the swaybar bushings. Easy n fairly cheap. Rest of the bushings I'd leave alone.

 

Huh… my GW “steering box brace” (aka wonderbar) was originally on my ’83 and is currently on my ’87 Formula…