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I think I found the dammage...

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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 11:08 AM
  #1  
JerseyMark's Avatar
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From: South Jersey
Car: 1991 RS Convertible
Engine: 96 LT1
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9-Bolt
I think I found the dammage...

Hey everyone,
I ran into a curb about a month ago and screwed up my car. The front passenger wheel was pushed back in the wheel well about 2-3 inches. I took it to a shop and they gave me a huge estimate to fix it. After the estimate, I took the car apart myself to inspect the dammage. This is what I found!! I cant believe that my ball joint bent that much! I looked at the quote the shop gave me and nowhere on it did it mention a new ball joint. So mabey this is the cause of my wheel being pushed back? I am going to replace the ball joint, spindle, & control arm and see what happens.

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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 11:32 AM
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From: Indiana, PA
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: SC'ed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.11 12bolt
Looks like your IROC is made of non special steel. Remember, keep it shiney and the cops can't see ya.
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 11:50 AM
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From: South Jersey
Car: 1991 RS Convertible
Engine: 96 LT1
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9-Bolt
?
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 11:57 AM
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Forshock 85TA's Avatar
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From: Victorville, CA
Car: 85 Trans Am
Engine: 350 (CCC QJet)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 9 bolt
Originally posted by wwnf
Looks like your IROC is made of non special steel. Remember, keep it shiney and the cops can't see ya.
WTF?

Jersey: Get some new moogs and give it a shot, nothing too loose, ya know? Good luck

again, wwnf: WTF?
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 12:01 PM
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From: South Jersey
Car: 1991 RS Convertible
Engine: 96 LT1
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9-Bolt
Do you have to replace ball joints in pairs? The ball joints on the car a brand new. I put them on the car 3 weeks before I hit the curb. But the one that I am going to replace the bent one with is a MOOG one. The other side is a pep boys special.
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 12:07 PM
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Forshock 85TA's Avatar
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From: Victorville, CA
Car: 85 Trans Am
Engine: 350 (CCC QJet)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 9 bolt
That pep boys one is most likely a TRW which is a Federal brand as is moog. Should only need to do the one , as long as its not one of those extended ones
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 12:08 PM
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From: Indiana, PA
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: SC'ed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.11 12bolt
http://www.housetepes.net/sounds/iroc.mp3
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 12:11 PM
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wwnf's Avatar
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From: Indiana, PA
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: SC'ed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.11 12bolt
I read on here somewhere that NAPA premium ball joints are better than Moog but cost like $95 each (last year).
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 12:12 PM
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JerseyMark's Avatar
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From: South Jersey
Car: 1991 RS Convertible
Engine: 96 LT1
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9-Bolt
Whats wrong with the extended ones? That is whats on there now. The MOOG ones that I bought are about an inch shorter. If there is an advantage to the short ones, I will replace the other one too.
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 12:16 PM
  #10  
Forshock 85TA's Avatar
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From: Victorville, CA
Car: 85 Trans Am
Engine: 350 (CCC QJet)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 9 bolt
Sorry, didnt know you had the extended ones...

Just keep them the same size, brand etc.

Sorry for the confusion

The extended ones will lowered the car, albiet slightly.
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 02:41 PM
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slowTA's Avatar
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From: Clifton, NJ
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-5... in need of slight rebuild
If the wheel was pushed back 2" or 3" there has to be frame damage as well, unless the control arm is bent and it doesn't look it from that view. Frame damage may not be all that obvious just by looking at it.

Good luck.
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 03:08 PM
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From: AR
Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
The paint on whatever car you set that on is to pretty to be having other car parts sat on it

Anyway, put a new arm and ball joint on, bolt it up and see where your at. I agree that is a problem, but not 2-3" of problem.
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 08:07 PM
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From: Houston, TX
Car: '86 T/A
Engine: 350/LT1 Intake
Transmission: 700R4 - Built
Axle/Gears: 4th gen 3.42
Holy crap you laid that on your paint?!

AHH!
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 08:14 PM
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From: Zebulon, nc
Car: 1990 GTA/1989 Iroc
Engine: L98/383
Transmission: 700r4/t56 magnum
Axle/Gears: 9"
Originally posted by wwnf
http://www.housetepes.net/sounds/iroc.mp3
DUDE!!! where did you find that. that guy goes down as the biggest LOSER ever!!! What a tool!!!
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 11:38 AM
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From: Indiana, PA
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: SC'ed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.11 12bolt
I found it on someone's personal website that had some IROC info. I can't remember the site but I found the other link to the mp3 as you can see.

Remember, keep it shiny like the stealth bomber and you'll be ok.

"Oh it's sweet.", IROC Idiot.
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 12:12 PM
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From: Northern, VA
Car: Pair of 92 Z28s
Originally posted by JerseyMark
Do you have to replace ball joints in pairs?
No, and id go with MOOG parts as i just did

Originally posted by Sonar_un
Holy crap you laid that on your paint?!

AHH!
ya i know wtf!
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 01:34 PM
  #17  
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Car: 1992 Camaro RS 25th Aniversarry Edition
Engine: 305
Transmission: TH-700-R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt with 3.23's and SLP Posi.
Originally posted by wwnf
I read on here somewhere that NAPA premium ball joints are better than Moog but cost like $95 each (last year).

The NAPA premium brand is made by DANA, really good stuff, comes with the 'really good stuff' price.
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 01:46 PM
  #18  
JerseyMark's Avatar
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From: South Jersey
Car: 1991 RS Convertible
Engine: 96 LT1
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9-Bolt
Just to make you guys feel better....

The red car that I laid the control arm on is not my Camaro. Its my 1993 Chevy Cavalier beater car. The paint isnt in the best of conditions to begin with.
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