I have a set of Dropzone lowering springs waiting to be installed on my car. I'm just holding off because I figure if I get an alignment, I might as well do the struts at the same time instead of having to get a second alignment down the road.
I can get a pair of Koni Red fronts with only 200 miles on them for around $150-170 and I'd use my fairly new KYB Gas-A-Justs in the rear. Seems like a decent price as these go for $170 a piece new.
The other option is to buy a full set of Tokico HP shocks/struts off of eBay for $250 shipped. The HPs are the non-adjustable ones.
Has anyone used both, or have any recommendations? I prefer a stiff ride, and something that can handle well. The car has the WS6 package (36mm/24mm bars), and the springs drop 1.75" front and 1.5" rear I believe. Either way the front won't drop as much as advertised because its going to weigh quite a bit less than stock (it already does a decent amount). Car also has a TDS wonderbar, Jamex STB, Spohn SFCs, and poly swaybar endlinks (not mount bushings just yet).
I can get a pair of Koni Red fronts with only 200 miles on them for around $150-170 and I'd use my fairly new KYB Gas-A-Justs in the rear. Seems like a decent price as these go for $170 a piece new.
The other option is to buy a full set of Tokico HP shocks/struts off of eBay for $250 shipped. The HPs are the non-adjustable ones.
Has anyone used both, or have any recommendations? I prefer a stiff ride, and something that can handle well. The car has the WS6 package (36mm/24mm bars), and the springs drop 1.75" front and 1.5" rear I believe. Either way the front won't drop as much as advertised because its going to weigh quite a bit less than stock (it already does a decent amount). Car also has a TDS wonderbar, Jamex STB, Spohn SFCs, and poly swaybar endlinks (not mount bushings just yet).
the hp's are too soft for lowering springs. you can get the illuminas for 500 from shox.com they work well.
i wouldn't buy used struts, just bite the bullit and get new koni's. they will last many years.
i wouldn't buy used struts, just bite the bullit and get new koni's. they will last many years.
Eh if I'm going to spend that much, I'd just buy Bilsteins. I'll just research it a little bit more.
I can say with certainty that the Illuminas or konis will work well with lowering springs. I have not tried the bilsteins but i'm sure they wil work. I had the HP's and they ride great but can't control the lower firmer springs. One went dead and i had to change them all. My car would bottom over everything. I now have the illuminas and i love them.
Senior Member
I firstly used Koni Yellows with my lowered springs and they were well firm.The adjustment of them didnt seem to make any difference and i eventually changed them for Illuminas from Spohn.What a difference!You can have them as firm as the Konisor you have five settings softer than this.Only taked seconds to adjust too.For street driving I would take the Illuminas over the Konis.
I ve also driven the 15 mile circuit of the Nurburgring in Germany and the Illuminas performed really well
Its up to you
PM
I ve also driven the 15 mile circuit of the Nurburgring in Germany and the Illuminas performed really well
Its up to you
PM
The reason the Koni's were always firm is that you can only adjust rebound. I think Koni's are great especially for track condidtions, but for a daily driver (over NY roads no less) i like the illuminas.
Junior Member
So, if I don't have a lot of money to spend on shocks/springs, would it be the best for me to buy, say Tokico HP's, and like Suspension Technique's springs, and not lower the car?
I am looking to upgrade my suspension from stock, but don't wanna spend $500 just on shocks....can someone give me some good advice as to which combo. to use for shocks/springs for a decent set and a decent price.....
I am looking to upgrade my suspension from stock, but don't wanna spend $500 just on shocks....can someone give me some good advice as to which combo. to use for shocks/springs for a decent set and a decent price.....
you can get moog iroc springs for about 100 bucks. Thry should work well with the hp's. If you want my opinion, i would much rather have a premium shocks than lowering springs.
Laiky, you're the first person I've ever heard that didn't like the HPs.
I've been researching on several boards and the Tokico HPs and KYBs seem to have about 80% percent of the "non" adjustable shock market. The other going to either Bilstien or to other brands. People seem to be a lot happier with the Tokicos than the KYBs.
Most of those people had lowering springs. The point is not to give actual numbers and what not, but more to the point that the HPs certainly seem to do the job.
The Bilstiens of course are some of the best, and adjustable is another issue all together.
I guess we'll find out, cause I'm going with the HPs.
I've been researching on several boards and the Tokico HPs and KYBs seem to have about 80% percent of the "non" adjustable shock market. The other going to either Bilstien or to other brands. People seem to be a lot happier with the Tokicos than the KYBs.
Most of those people had lowering springs. The point is not to give actual numbers and what not, but more to the point that the HPs certainly seem to do the job.
The Bilstiens of course are some of the best, and adjustable is another issue all together.
I guess we'll find out, cause I'm going with the HPs.

Thirdgen89GTA
Supreme Member
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I've got KYB GR-2's up front, and Gas-A-justs in back. Its a good combo on a track I'd guess. Body roll is almost nil in my car. In fact I really can't detect any major body roll even under cornering hard enough to cause the tires to starts screaming on dry pavement.
But the ride is REALLY rough, almost knock your teeth out rough. I haven't ridden in a car with the HP's yet, or the bilsteins. But I'd go bilstein over my KYB setup anyday of the week, can't say anything about the HP's.
But the ride is REALLY rough, almost knock your teeth out rough. I haven't ridden in a car with the HP's yet, or the bilsteins. But I'd go bilstein over my KYB setup anyday of the week, can't say anything about the HP's.
i don't dislike the hp's in fact i really like them. I have had them in other cars (sedans) and they were great, EXCELLENT ride quality and taught firm ride. I put a set in my fathers 86 taurus (quite afew years ago)and it was a miraculous transormation. that car rode and handled far better than a family sedan should have. the ride was taught, body roll and brake dive were greatly reduced, and it was a slot car over bumps. in fact i passed many sports cars through bump riddled ny turns. You could hammer it over the crappiest pavement and the car was always composed with great grip.
I put the hp's in my camaro with a pro kit, it rode well. The problem arose at higher speeds where the hp's didn't seem capeable of handling the extra loads. The car would bottom often and it would wallow over bigger bumps. I think my problem was 2 fold, the prokit is too soft, and had reduced wheel travel, that alone will lead to bottoming out. The HP's are valved to absorb high speed, sharp edged bumps, that also uses up additional wheel travel. The end result is that the car was prone to bottoming out, and wallowing. In the end after about 6 months the left front HP went south (DEAD) and the right wasn't far behind it. I swithed to illuminas and eventually dumped the pro-kit (too low for my drive way, and too soft) and i am very happy 2 years latter. I wouldn't hesitate to buy hp's again for a stock sedan, thy just aren't up to the needs of the camaro.
Thirdgen:
the reason your car rides so harshly is because your dampers had an inexpensive construction. The valving is cheaply made, and does not control the wheel properly. It rides hard because when the dampers are sharply compressed they hydraulic lock. The valves don't flow enough oil at high piston speeds. The result is the harsh ride. They reason the car handles flat is likely the sway bars and springs. The car would be more responsive and ride better with even less body roll if you went to Bilsteins, koni's or tokico illuminas.
I put the hp's in my camaro with a pro kit, it rode well. The problem arose at higher speeds where the hp's didn't seem capeable of handling the extra loads. The car would bottom often and it would wallow over bigger bumps. I think my problem was 2 fold, the prokit is too soft, and had reduced wheel travel, that alone will lead to bottoming out. The HP's are valved to absorb high speed, sharp edged bumps, that also uses up additional wheel travel. The end result is that the car was prone to bottoming out, and wallowing. In the end after about 6 months the left front HP went south (DEAD) and the right wasn't far behind it. I swithed to illuminas and eventually dumped the pro-kit (too low for my drive way, and too soft) and i am very happy 2 years latter. I wouldn't hesitate to buy hp's again for a stock sedan, thy just aren't up to the needs of the camaro.
Thirdgen:
the reason your car rides so harshly is because your dampers had an inexpensive construction. The valving is cheaply made, and does not control the wheel properly. It rides hard because when the dampers are sharply compressed they hydraulic lock. The valves don't flow enough oil at high piston speeds. The result is the harsh ride. They reason the car handles flat is likely the sway bars and springs. The car would be more responsive and ride better with even less body roll if you went to Bilsteins, koni's or tokico illuminas.
i don't dislike the hp's in fact i really like them. I have had them in other cars (sedans) and they were great, EXCELLENT ride quality and taught firm ride. I put a set in my fathers 86 taurus (quite afew years ago)and it was a miraculous transormation. that car rode and handled far better than a family sedan should have. the ride was taught, body roll and brake dive were greatly reduced, and it was a slot car over bumps. in fact i passed many sports cars through bump riddled ny turns. You could hammer it over the crappiest pavement and the car was always composed with great grip.
I put the hp's in my camaro with a pro kit, it rode well. The problem arose at higher speeds where the hp's didn't seem capeable of handling the extra loads. The car would bottom often and it would wallow over bigger bumps. I think my problem was 2 fold, the prokit is too soft, and had reduced wheel travel, that alone will lead to bottoming out. The HP's are valved to absorb high speed, sharp edged bumps, that also uses up additional wheel travel. The end result is that the car was prone to bottoming out, and wallowing. In the end after about 6 months the left front HP went south (DEAD) and the right wasn't far behind it. I swithed to illuminas and eventually dumped the pro-kit (too low for my drive way, and too soft) and i am very happy 2 years latter. I wouldn't hesitate to buy hp's again for a stock sedan, thy just aren't up to the needs of the camaro.
Thirdgen:
the reason your car rides so harshly is because your dampers had an inexpensive construction. The valving is cheaply made, and does not control the wheel properly. It rides hard because when the dampers are sharply compressed they hydraulic lock. The valves don't flow enough oil at high piston speeds. The result is the harsh ride. They reason the car handles flat is likely the sway bars and springs. The car would be more responsive and ride better with even less body roll if you went to Bilsteins, koni's or tokico illuminas.
I put the hp's in my camaro with a pro kit, it rode well. The problem arose at higher speeds where the hp's didn't seem capeable of handling the extra loads. The car would bottom often and it would wallow over bigger bumps. I think my problem was 2 fold, the prokit is too soft, and had reduced wheel travel, that alone will lead to bottoming out. The HP's are valved to absorb high speed, sharp edged bumps, that also uses up additional wheel travel. The end result is that the car was prone to bottoming out, and wallowing. In the end after about 6 months the left front HP went south (DEAD) and the right wasn't far behind it. I swithed to illuminas and eventually dumped the pro-kit (too low for my drive way, and too soft) and i am very happy 2 years latter. I wouldn't hesitate to buy hp's again for a stock sedan, thy just aren't up to the needs of the camaro.
Thirdgen:
the reason your car rides so harshly is because your dampers had an inexpensive construction. The valving is cheaply made, and does not control the wheel properly. It rides hard because when the dampers are sharply compressed they hydraulic lock. The valves don't flow enough oil at high piston speeds. The result is the harsh ride. They reason the car handles flat is likely the sway bars and springs. The car would be more responsive and ride better with even less body roll if you went to Bilsteins, koni's or tokico illuminas.
Thirdgen89GTA
Supreme Member
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I know why it handles so harshly, I was just stating my experience for those who are looking at the KYB setup. It is a good deal for the money, and the HP's weren't out yet when I bought my KYB setup.
My car also suffers from lots of interior rattles as most thirdgens do. My interior has been out so many times that its not quite back together the way it should be. When I can get some excess money together I will apply some sound deadening material to the larger plastic interior pieces and make sure all screws, tabs and other crud are there and tight.
My car also suffers from lots of interior rattles as most thirdgens do. My interior has been out so many times that its not quite back together the way it should be. When I can get some excess money together I will apply some sound deadening material to the larger plastic interior pieces and make sure all screws, tabs and other crud are there and tight.
I hear you on the interior! Sometimes i feel like mine is held in place with rubberbands! I have always wanted to take it out, weld up any stripped holes, and glue it back with clear silicone between the overlaps of the panels.
Junior Member
Ok,
So, with y'all's experience, HP's will work with a non-lowering spring set-up, but, if I am going for lowering springs, I might as well wait and save enough money until I can get like Koni's, Illumina', or Bilsteins??
Also, I wanted to get y'alls opinion on the following:
1. QA1 coil springs
2. KYB AGX shocks
3. Intrax Springs
4. How do you know what size spring to get for a thirdgen t/a.......between lowering and non-lowering....
So, with y'all's experience, HP's will work with a non-lowering spring set-up, but, if I am going for lowering springs, I might as well wait and save enough money until I can get like Koni's, Illumina', or Bilsteins??
Also, I wanted to get y'alls opinion on the following:
1. QA1 coil springs
2. KYB AGX shocks
3. Intrax Springs
4. How do you know what size spring to get for a thirdgen t/a.......between lowering and non-lowering....
Member
i have koni reds all the way around and the ride is VERY stiff, handles real well though
Well, I have the springs in the back with Bilstein HD shocks, and I have my stock springs up front with Koni Red adjustables (set on softest setting for now for a few hundred miles). Didn't have time to switch front springs on Saturday, so that's going to wait a bit. The car is definitely tighter. I have been noticing that on quick right turns that my right rear tire is rubbing, but I don't know if its on the inside or the outside yet, haven't gotten a chance to check it out. 275/40R18 tires on 18x9.5 C5 wheels with my 4th gen rear. I should probably use some of the drum-brake-spacers since the 4th gen rear is only 1 5/8" wider on each side instead of the 2" most people recommend for wide tires and 4th gen wheels.
Car feels great, but is quite a bumpy ride. Personally, I love it, but my car does make more noise now. Not to mention, the EMT tires aren't the quietest in the world either. Sticks to the road like glue though, compared to the stock setup.
Suspension "specs" as of now:
WS6 package (36mm/24mm bars)
Front stock 86k-mile WS6 springs
Koni Red adjustable struts
Rear Dropzone lowering springs
Bilstein HD shocks
ES swaybar endlinks front and rear
Undersized rear ES greasable swaybar mount bushings
TDS Wonderbar
Jamex STB
17x8.5" C5 wheels with 245/45R17 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS EMT
18x9.5" C5 wheels with 275/40R18 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS EMT
The car does have some wheel-hop now with the current setup that I'd never experienced before in this car. I have tubular LCAs sitting in my garage waiting to be installed when I install my Spohn SFCs. Want to do both at same time because it appears the LCA bolt needs to go through the Spohn SFCs. I'll probably do this when I get my new center console because then I'll be more swayed to pulling up my interior (need to install driveshaft safety loop as well through floorboards). Tempted to get some bolt-in LCARBs as well.
Car feels great, but is quite a bumpy ride. Personally, I love it, but my car does make more noise now. Not to mention, the EMT tires aren't the quietest in the world either. Sticks to the road like glue though, compared to the stock setup.
Suspension "specs" as of now:
WS6 package (36mm/24mm bars)
Front stock 86k-mile WS6 springs
Koni Red adjustable struts
Rear Dropzone lowering springs
Bilstein HD shocks
ES swaybar endlinks front and rear
Undersized rear ES greasable swaybar mount bushings
TDS Wonderbar
Jamex STB
17x8.5" C5 wheels with 245/45R17 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS EMT
18x9.5" C5 wheels with 275/40R18 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS EMT
The car does have some wheel-hop now with the current setup that I'd never experienced before in this car. I have tubular LCAs sitting in my garage waiting to be installed when I install my Spohn SFCs. Want to do both at same time because it appears the LCA bolt needs to go through the Spohn SFCs. I'll probably do this when I get my new center console because then I'll be more swayed to pulling up my interior (need to install driveshaft safety loop as well through floorboards). Tempted to get some bolt-in LCARBs as well.



