Sub-Frame Connectors
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 178
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From: Gray, GA
Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: 6.0L LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Sub-Frame Connectors
I've done a search and found nothing helpful. If someone can give a link to a thread that would be great.
I'm wondering what is a good type of sub-frame connectors for a reasonable price.
I was looking at Jegs.com at the jegsters, but all I could find was the full suspension kit. (Way too expensive for now)
Also I have a friend who said the Jegster bolt-ons work great, what about you guys, because if I can find the connectors that what I'm considering going with.
Any recommendations?
Thanks guys
I'm wondering what is a good type of sub-frame connectors for a reasonable price.
I was looking at Jegs.com at the jegsters, but all I could find was the full suspension kit. (Way too expensive for now)
Also I have a friend who said the Jegster bolt-ons work great, what about you guys, because if I can find the connectors that what I'm considering going with.
Any recommendations?
Thanks guys
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,204
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
Bolt-ons are easy to install but over time they have the tendency to work around and slot out the mounting holes. Eventually they'll start to flop once this happens they no longer enforce the unibody. Normally for bolt-ins you can bolt them on yourself then drop the car by a welding shop for them to do some spot welds to finish it up.
As for SFC's I'm a big believer in www.spohn.net I've been running there old style boxed SFC's for a long time great product. Ran me around $160 for installation at local welding shop ( I did all interior removal and installation myself).
As for SFC's I'm a big believer in www.spohn.net I've been running there old style boxed SFC's for a long time great product. Ran me around $160 for installation at local welding shop ( I did all interior removal and installation myself).
Thread Starter
Member

Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 178
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From: Gray, GA
Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: 6.0L LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Originally posted by fireturd350
( I did all interior removal and installation myself).
( I did all interior removal and installation myself).
Is that a $160 price tag for the SFC's and the installation or just installation?
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
I wouldn't think you'd need to remove your interior for weld in SFCs...?
check the website for prices, but just FYI, even if it's a bit more expensive to go with SPOHN, not only are you getting a high quality piece, from someone very skilled, who dedicates his time to our 3rd gens (mostly), you're supporting someone who supports these boards. So the reason we can give you this advice, and all the advice in the future, is because of the sponsors. So if you have the choice, go with them, they know their stuff.
http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1309
$200. so he paid $160 for installation. I personally think that's a bit on the high side, but that's just my opinion. if you get everything all ready, then just bring the car in and tell them what to weld, they should be able to do it in under an hour, 1hr labor + mig wire = $80 maybe?
check the website for prices, but just FYI, even if it's a bit more expensive to go with SPOHN, not only are you getting a high quality piece, from someone very skilled, who dedicates his time to our 3rd gens (mostly), you're supporting someone who supports these boards. So the reason we can give you this advice, and all the advice in the future, is because of the sponsors. So if you have the choice, go with them, they know their stuff.
http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1309
$200. so he paid $160 for installation. I personally think that's a bit on the high side, but that's just my opinion. if you get everything all ready, then just bring the car in and tell them what to weld, they should be able to do it in under an hour, 1hr labor + mig wire = $80 maybe?
Thread Starter
Member

Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 178
Likes: 0
From: Gray, GA
Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: 6.0L LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73
thanks alot, those are what I'm looking for. I think I know someone around my home town who can do it fairly cheap. I'll probably go with the SPOHN. thanks guys!
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Posts: 3,204
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
The interior removal included pulling the front seats, rocker stills, seat belt on the rocker, carpet, wiring, and insulation. I used short 2x4s to prop the carpet, unattaching the wiring strip on the driver side from the clips, and insulation up during the ride down to the shop. I'm guessing they flipped the carpet up on each side as they put the welds on it. Sheet metal gets fairly hot when you're welding on it. If you follow the instructions it's just welds every few inches, but it does require welding the rocker to transmission tunnel braces to the floor (the little short bars that attach at angles). So that means you're not only welding on the edges but in a line from the side of the car towards the center console area. It should be fairly clear from the installation pictures from Spohn by what I'm talking about. Just in case you were wondering the welder informed me when I picked the car up it got so hot one of the small chunks of insulation that was attached with glue actually started to smoke and burnt a little bit. Also where the welds were placed on the floor pan for the support braces it burnt away my paint in certain spots. I had to give it acouple quick shots of cheap rattle can stuff (painted it red due to the fact it was the closest can to me and it's cover'd by the carpet anyways).
The $160 included reallocation brackets installation (weld in spohn kind), new adjustable LCA's installation, and SFC's installation.
The $160 included reallocation brackets installation (weld in spohn kind), new adjustable LCA's installation, and SFC's installation.
Last edited by fireturd350; Mar 29, 2005 at 11:46 PM.
Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 119
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From: Great Lakes State
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
I've had my SPOHN SFCs sitting around for a while now... and I just got back from Heads Up Racing. By tomarrow they'll have my LCA relocation brackets, custom LCAs, panhard rod, and SFCs all welded in.
Thats alot of quality 3rd gen parts all at once, so I can't wait for the 1st test drive... its gonna be a beautiful thing.
As for which SFC to get 90% of the people here will say Spohn makes the best one (the kenny browns can only go on hard tops). And in this case I think its well worth the money... it is the most important part of the car.
I'll tell you what I think of the difference the parts made once the car gets back.
Thats alot of quality 3rd gen parts all at once, so I can't wait for the 1st test drive... its gonna be a beautiful thing.
As for which SFC to get 90% of the people here will say Spohn makes the best one (the kenny browns can only go on hard tops). And in this case I think its well worth the money... it is the most important part of the car.
I'll tell you what I think of the difference the parts made once the car gets back.
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Supreme Member
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,204
Likes: 7
From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
I could feel a difference when going around tight corners at high speeds. Also I went from spinning off the line to almost bogging the first 20 feet or so. Course that let me have an excuse to add an aftermarket torque converter for more power out of the hole. You should like the upgrades.
SFC's is one of the top things I would do to an f-body if I got another one along with a wonderbar.
SFC's is one of the top things I would do to an f-body if I got another one along with a wonderbar.
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Just letting you guys know. I've opened up another two GP's for the Alston SFC's. GP1 is the Alston SFC's, GP2 is for the combined SFC's and TDS Steering Brace (aka Wonderbar).
Lon Salgren
Top-DownSolutions
Lon Salgren
Top-DownSolutions
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Depends on the options you select (powder-coated, install kit, etc.). Just click on the TDS logo at the top of the page and look under the "Group Purchase" category. Bare bones, you could select un-coated with no install kit and you're looking at $154 + S&H.
Lon
Lon
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 985
Likes: 55
From: Nebraska
Car: '89 Formula
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt
I would go with the Spohns as well. The fit was perfect, and I only noticed one thing that bothered me: the way that the passenger side y-piece attached to main SFC. The piece was designed to be welded to the top of the main SFC, quadrant-to-quadrant (presumably for clearance reasons?), but if you have the room I would recommend fish-mouthing the y-piece and welding it more solidly to SFC. Heres what I mean:
Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: Great Lakes State
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
I went over to Heads Up Racing yesterday and gave em some more parts to put in.
I also test drove the car... its feels really good! No bending or twisting, no rear-end wabble in high speed corners. However I found out that the passanger side y-piece of the SFC couldn't be welded in because my crap-tactular CAT is in the way. The other thing about the cat is its so plugged up with deposits that it might cause a fire soon.
So now I'm gonna have my SLP header stuff and flowmaster exhaust put in and a bullet muffler replace the cat. a metal pipe will replace the cat if the bullet is still hindering the y-piece of my SFC.
I'm gonna have a strut tower brace and torque arm put in to help with the strength too.
I also test drove the car... its feels really good! No bending or twisting, no rear-end wabble in high speed corners. However I found out that the passanger side y-piece of the SFC couldn't be welded in because my crap-tactular CAT is in the way. The other thing about the cat is its so plugged up with deposits that it might cause a fire soon.
So now I'm gonna have my SLP header stuff and flowmaster exhaust put in and a bullet muffler replace the cat. a metal pipe will replace the cat if the bullet is still hindering the y-piece of my SFC.
I'm gonna have a strut tower brace and torque arm put in to help with the strength too.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,204
Likes: 7
From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
I had the same problems with my brace, even with the old rectangular design. Usually after the cats get plugged up it'll choke the car at anything more than an idle. Don't ask me how I know this.
Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: Great Lakes State
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
when I slam the gas in 2nd gear round 2500 rpm, the engine really bogs down. I thought it might be my carburator till I found out about the cat. The gas mileage is terrible too. I can't wait to see how the car feels when the engines really breathing and the chassis stiffend up.
Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 216
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver Island, BC, Canada
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: 5 speed
Great thread
for info and pics of Umi Performance Sub frame connectors:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=335711
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=335711
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