Why solid bars are better than hollow ones
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From: Long Island, New York
Car: 91RS
Engine: 305tbi
Transmission: 700R4
Why solid bars are better than hollow ones
So I came outside this morning to my car not starting, hood struts shot when they were good yesturday, and this:

Their is a 3pt edelbrock stb, and a wonderbar on there and I managed to snap the thing?
The only undue stress I can think of is yesturday I took a corner too fast in the rain, and hit some sand. I went into a spin but got it under controll fairly quickly.
Has this happend to any of you guys or is it just a freak thing? I'm debating weather to throw on the spare 36mm hollow I have or the 34mm solid.
Edit: Looking at the pic now it looks like it's rusted out inside the bar, maybie that's what did it in although the metal on the break is clean.

Their is a 3pt edelbrock stb, and a wonderbar on there and I managed to snap the thing?
The only undue stress I can think of is yesturday I took a corner too fast in the rain, and hit some sand. I went into a spin but got it under controll fairly quickly.
Has this happend to any of you guys or is it just a freak thing? I'm debating weather to throw on the spare 36mm hollow I have or the 34mm solid.
Edit: Looking at the pic now it looks like it's rusted out inside the bar, maybie that's what did it in although the metal on the break is clean.
I've been road course racing with hollow GM bars for years now, sticky track slicks and bumpy tracks like Lime Rock and Pocono...never snapped a swaybar.
There was definitely a contributing factor in your breakage, maybe the internal rust as you pointed out or something else going on.
There was definitely a contributing factor in your breakage, maybe the internal rust as you pointed out or something else going on.
I the upper left hand corner of the bar, it looks like it might have been cracked. Not surprising considering that is where the bushings wear. Take a good look at the break, i bet there is a deep scratch on the outside near the break. I wouldn't hesitate to put the hollow 36 on there, but i would (as i am planning to do) polish it up, remove all paint, inspect for cracks and repaint it.
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
I'm still trying to figure out the connection between the broken sway bar and engine not starting and hood struts bad. Why a broken sway bar would cause those other problems is beyond me. lol
Lon
Lon
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From: Long Island, New York
Car: 91RS
Engine: 305tbi
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by lonsal
I'm still trying to figure out the connection between the broken sway bar and engine not starting and hood struts bad. Why a broken sway bar would cause those other problems is beyond me. lol
Lon
I'm still trying to figure out the connection between the broken sway bar and engine not starting and hood struts bad. Why a broken sway bar would cause those other problems is beyond me. lol
Lon
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From: Edinburgh, Scotland
Car: 1985 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 350ci from 79camaro
Transmission: 5 speed manual on lsd
Originally posted by PyRo9862
Well I was running fuel through the swaybar to expand the capacity if the tank, so that would explain the not starting. I'm still lost on the hood struts though.
Well I was running fuel through the swaybar to expand the capacity if the tank, so that would explain the not starting. I'm still lost on the hood struts though.
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From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Actually PyRo9862 has a hidden nitrous system and stores the funny juice in the sway bar. He's only saying the fuel runs through it to throw us off.
I'd check the bushing to bar interference. It may be that the bushing was binding preventing the bar from twisting. That would defintely shear it (and allow the N2O to escape negating the effectiveness of the nitrous system
).
RBob.
I'd check the bushing to bar interference. It may be that the bushing was binding preventing the bar from twisting. That would defintely shear it (and allow the N2O to escape negating the effectiveness of the nitrous system
).RBob.
Originally posted by lonsal
I'm still trying to figure out the connection between the broken sway bar and engine not starting and hood struts bad. Why a broken sway bar would cause those other problems is beyond me. lol
Lon
I'm still trying to figure out the connection between the broken sway bar and engine not starting and hood struts bad. Why a broken sway bar would cause those other problems is beyond me. lol
Lon
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From: hamilton canada
Car: 1988 formula firebird
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: world class 5 speed
broken 36mm sway bar
just the other day i broke my 36 mm sway bar in the same location and probably from the same reason, rust. i came across this just from the corner of my eye one morning and i was amazed to see it broken, well i got another ready to bolt on asap. I'll post a pic asap.
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
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Looks like that's been broken awhile, maybe that hard steering just popped it out of the mount.
OR...you built up too much under hood heat and it radiated into the sway bar causing the NOS to overheat and force it's way out
Next time install a sway bar internal pressure gauge and keep the pressure at about 1000psi.
OR...you built up too much under hood heat and it radiated into the sway bar causing the NOS to overheat and force it's way out
Next time install a sway bar internal pressure gauge and keep the pressure at about 1000psi. Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Oyth
Car: 89RS vert
Engine: Erod
Transmission: 4L65e
Axle/Gears: BW, 3.27
Alot of times the tire rubs on the bigger sway bar under severe turning(u-turn,Lk to Lk).Perhaps when you spun out in the rain.The tire may have been rubbing while rotating & exerting a little too much force on the swaybar.Thereby shearing it off at the mounting bracket?Extreme example,but plauseable?perhaps!Maybe?
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From: Long Island, New York
Car: 91RS
Engine: 305tbi
Transmission: 700R4
I've never heard of them rubbing. Interesting theory but it was a left turn and the left side broke so if either side was rubbing it would have been the right.
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From: Concordia, MO, USA
Car: 89 Formula, WS6
Engine: LB9/peanut cam :(
Transmission: 700R4
How do you know if your swaybar is solid or hollow? My front swaybar is the ginormous one (36mm, I think. Been a long time since I measured it, and I don't have a metric caliper)
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From: Queens NY
Car: 86 Camaro Z28
Engine: 350 sbc goodwrench
Transmission: T-5 in the works
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.42 open
Running fuel threw the sway bar must be kidding.
but it is as funny as the person
who said he used a hole saw to cut holes in his
unibody frame to lighten the car and I think
he really did turn his unibody into swiss cheese.
but it is as funny as the person
who said he used a hole saw to cut holes in his
unibody frame to lighten the car and I think
he really did turn his unibody into swiss cheese.
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From: Concordia, MO, USA
Car: 89 Formula, WS6
Engine: LB9/peanut cam :(
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by HorseflyDF
Running fuel threw the sway bar must be kidding.
Running fuel threw the sway bar must be kidding.
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Oyth
Car: 89RS vert
Engine: Erod
Transmission: 4L65e
Axle/Gears: BW, 3.27
Originally posted by PyRo9862
I've never heard of them rubbing. Interesting theory but it was a left turn and the left side broke so if either side was rubbing it would have been the right.
I've never heard of them rubbing. Interesting theory but it was a left turn and the left side broke so if either side was rubbing it would have been the right.
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From: Lowell, MA
Car: 91 Formula, 95 GT
Engine: 5.7, 5.0
Transmission: T5, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42:1, ???
Originally posted by black89ws6
How do you know if your swaybar is solid or hollow? My front swaybar is the ginormous one (36mm, I think. Been a long time since I measured it, and I don't have a metric caliper)
How do you know if your swaybar is solid or hollow? My front swaybar is the ginormous one (36mm, I think. Been a long time since I measured it, and I don't have a metric caliper)
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From: In my own little world - but they know me well in here
Car: 88 Sport convertible
Engine: 305TBI
Transmission: AUTO
Axle/Gears: 3.42 rear end
Drain holes? Thought those were pressure relief valves from the factory...
You know GM thought of everything.....
You know GM thought of everything.....
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From: Troup, Texas
Car: 1989 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: ZZZ# 0607 of 1200 produced
Transmission: Pro-Built 700R4/Vig.2400
Axle/Gears: 3.27 BW 9 Bolt PBR Disc
Originally posted by semiller26
glad i live in california! my bars have no rust, the car too.
glad i live in california! my bars have no rust, the car too.
Dude I was thinking the same thing. Damn I thought my car was dirty and ****. Until I saw some of these midwestern rides. **** you guys have ti bad.
Will
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From: Valley of the Sun
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
Originally posted by 91formulaSS
All 36mm bars from the factory are hollow. Look near the ends of the bar, you will notice drain holes.
All 36mm bars from the factory are hollow. Look near the ends of the bar, you will notice drain holes.
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From: Lowell, MA
Car: 91 Formula, 95 GT
Engine: 5.7, 5.0
Transmission: T5, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42:1, ???
Originally posted by ME Leigh
Thats not right, some WS6's had solid and some had hollow bars.
Thats not right, some WS6's had solid and some had hollow bars.
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From: Lowell, MA
Car: 91 Formula, 95 GT
Engine: 5.7, 5.0
Transmission: T5, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42:1, ???
Originally posted by 91Z28-350
All 36mm GM sway bars were hollow. The 34mm was available as solid or hollow from GM.
All 36mm GM sway bars were hollow. The 34mm was available as solid or hollow from GM.
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From: Valley of the Sun
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
Originally posted by 91Z28-350
All 36mm GM sway bars were hollow. The 34mm was available as solid or hollow from GM.
All 36mm GM sway bars were hollow. The 34mm was available as solid or hollow from GM.
Interesting, the only solid 36mm I've seen are aftermarket. I've never spotted a solid 36mm at the junkyard. I just did a search, and nobody on TGO has heard of solid 36mm OEM pieces neither. Do you have a PN for the solid 36mm?
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From: Victorville, CA
Car: 85 Trans Am
Engine: 350 (CCC QJet)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 9 bolt
reviving from the dead...
I just got a 36mm SOLID from an 85 WS6 t-top car. No part # on it. Looks like its been there its whole life.
I just got a 36mm SOLID from an 85 WS6 t-top car. No part # on it. Looks like its been there its whole life.
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From: decatur IL
Car: 86 iroc, 87 iroc, 89 iroc, 89 formula, 84 supra, 85 trans am
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they are out their, but i have never seen one.
how much more does it weigh compared to the hollow bar?
how much more does it weigh compared to the hollow bar?
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