just got lca , lca relocation brakets, and subframes and im using normal radials at the track and im getting really bad wheel spin off the linebest 60 was a 2.015 . Im gonna get some nitto drag radials. what other stuf could i do to hook better i was thinking a spohn torque arm.

If all it does is spin, try tires first. No amount of suspension parts will cure that. Tires with no traction will get no traction, no matter what they're mounted up on.

Once you get tires that hook, go from there.

i am in the exact same boat. every aspect of my suspension and chassis has been addressed, now since the power is transfering to the wheels better, the tires are the weak point> I just got new BFG DR's and i am gonna see how they work out.

I just ordered some nitto drag radials hope they get here b4 friday so i can test em at the track

91tpi5.7 what track you run your car at ?

raceway park in englishtown nj

I have a 83 z28 with all stock suspension and my 60' is 1.838. I'm just running BFG drag radials and that's not my best but the only time slip I have infront of me. It's all about the tires.

Riddle me this, I'm pulling 1.8X on 11.5" ET streets w/ a 6-spd, bat. relocate, and drag spings up front. Now that wouldn't be bad if I didn't already average 1.8X's on my nittos. I go to a slick and the time doesn't change? I don't get it.

Dump the clutch higher.

with "bone stock suspension" i pulled the left front a few inches and cut a 1.71 i want it to hook harder that was on hard nittos i cant wait to feel my new mt et radials and now i have suspension upgrades so well see ..i would advice yanking off the front sway bar and adding skinnies

Ok, first and foremost, it’s not all about the tires.

Bone stock, with everything working, nothing broken, nothing worn out, most 3rd and 4th gen f-bodies are capable of running high 1.7’s/low 1.8’s on street radials. I do it all the time, I’ve done it in 3 different of my own f-bodies as well as a few friend’s cars. We’re not even talking about super sticky or particularly good street radials, I’ve cut a few dozen low 1.8’s in my formula on the original, no 18y/o 245/50/16 eagle ZR’s as well as on some 215/65/15 eagle GT+4’s. The car actually didn’t have the power/torque converter/gear to go faster. I tested that by mounting a set of sticky tires that I didn’t spin coming out of the hole no matter how hard I hit it and didn’t run any faster.

If you can’t, something is broken, your car isn’t fast enough to do it (not spinning) or it’s your driving. If you’re not getting major wheel hop it’s probably your driving.

Softer, sticker, bigger… tires all take more power to turn, so unless you _really_ need them, you’ll actually run slower on them then the best that you would run on a lesser tire. Yes, it’s MUCH easier to run a decent time on a set of slicks or big DR’s, but it will not be faster then running _just barely enough_ tire and driving it the whole way down.

LCA relo brackets- well, they’re nice if you’re running those big soft tires, but on street radials, even low profile drag radials and even on a lowered car they’ll hit the tires TOO hard and after a few feet they’ll “bounce” and you’ll loose traction. Believe me, I’ve tried it and couldn’t get it to work, not even on nitto DR’s at 14psi. My ’97 WS6 has relocation brackets on it and the LCA’s are mounted in the stock locations right now because of that and I have video of the car hitting the back tires so hard that the back end of the car goes up and the rim completely crushes the tire sidewall on the launch, and then looses traction a few feet further down.

Aftermarket LCA’s will have a bigger impact on handling then straight line till you’re talking about a much faster car, say running 10’s or so. A stiffer, aftermarket PHR will help, but most of that help will come at the initial leave off the line or on the shifts (I haven’t been able to document the change in the 60’ times but I have in the over all 1/4 time). Again, unless we’re talking about a _fast_ car, you’ll feel it more in handling. Airbags in the rear springs are a nice tuning aid, even on a slower car you can use them to change the way the car reacts off the line to better match what you’re naturally doing. You can also use them to compensate some for the LCA brackets if you’re not running a big soft tire, say like a medium height drag radial or a DOT slick on a 16” stock rim.

Disconnecting the front sway bar has a dramatic effect – on how the car looks and feels, but I’ve never been able to document faster 60’s with it. it causes the front to seem to lift faster, what actually happens is that the front driver’s side lifts faster and it accentuates the lack of antisquat that most people have after lowering the car. To the untrained eye you get a “wow, that thing leaves hard,” when really your suspension is just doing things that it shouldn’t. If you’re going to bother just pull the thing off, you won’t gain any thing real in the 60’ but it will be easier to see when your car is doing something wrong AND more importantly, you’ll loose 12-35# off the front of the car (the hollow bars are in the teens, the bigger solid bars are as heavy as in the low 30# range).

Because if you don't spin the nittos from a launch why would you need slicks??? Slicks don't give you better 60' times just because they're slicks. I can cut near 1.7's on my street tires, Nittos may help me get to 1.7 but going to a slick isn't going to get me to 1.6's...

I used to spin the DR's at 3300rpm. I dump the slicks at 5500rpm and it spins. I dump it at 5, 4500, and 4k w/ the same results. The DR's I could spin at will, when I wanted to. Under 4k it seems to try and bog w/ the slicks. It's not a power thing.

Lemme guess, you're an automatic??

I think it would be important to mention how well the track is prepped makes a difference.

I've run as fast as a 1.71 in my '97 WS6 on radials with a six speed...

Most of my runs are at a pretty crappy track.
I'm just tired of pu$$y footin it out of the hole all the time. I bought some more crap and hopefully it'll help.

What psi does every one run in there drag radilas when at the track ?

You shouldn't be able to tell the difference between a good driver in an auto and a manual in 60' times. Granted a manual may be harder to learn to launch, but once you figure it out, there's no advantage to an auto. Especially a stock auto. I was running 2.2x 60's last year at the track with stock worn-out suspension and 245/45R16 Kumho 712 tires. My buddy had a '97 Z28 with 275/40R17 Eagle F1s and was running 2.4x 60's with his T56. That was both of ours first time at the track. Auto is easier to start with, but once you learn a manual, you shouldn't be complaining about an automatic having an advantage. This year I have a LOT more suspension stuff done and a lot more weight reduction in the front, some D/R's, and a bit more power so I should easily be in the low 1.9x's I'm hoping. My buddy will have his '99 SS at the track this year, but with worn 275/40R17 F1s.

The guy I bought my BFG D/R's from told me he was running 1.6x 60's spraying a 305 into the 12s with the stock torque converter and he was using 28psi cold in the D/R's.

There is a slight advantage with an auto (again, I have both, race both, have run decent 60’s in both). To run a fast 60 with a stick you pretty much have to slip the clutch some, wearing out the clutch faster if you make a lot of dragstrip passes. Auto/torque converter doesn’t have that wear problem.

As far as DR’s, they sorta “stick” better as you drop the pressure in them. Basically I usually start at normal street pressures and drop about 2psi at a time till I’m happy with how they’re sticking. On my formula 350 (auto) with 275/50/15 BFG DRs I found that I had enough traction at any pressure so this wasn’t an issue, I think I made passes at somewhere around 28 a 32 psi. On my WS6 (stick) with 275/40 /17 nitto DRs (car that hits the tires harder and tires that aren’t as forgiving and probably not as sticky) I usually got my best runs with the pressures set somewhere between 14 and18psi depending on track prep, what I did with the air bags…