need traction!
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: new orleans,La
Car: pontiac firebird
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
need traction!
guys i really need some help i have modded my formula pretty good (miniram,zz9 cam, tpis afr heads) my rear suspension is all stock but my coil springs are new moog iroc rate or whatever (thought that would help my car to stop leaning to the drivers side but didnt) i know i need mods and i am ready to do them but need some suggestions. from a dead stop my car will spin through first and second with an auto matic with 2200 stall no wheel hop ever just blazing the tires...will lca's and lowering brackets help me alot or would it be a very small difference? everything is stock right now
You probably just need better tires by the sound of it. Upgrading your LCAs and installing relocation brackets will help a bit, too. You should also take a look at your endlinks if your car is leaning to one side.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,085
Likes: 2
From: Elgin, IL
Car: 1997 Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73 IRS
Yeah, if suspension is stock, and you're just getting wheelspin, get better tires. Once wheelhop becomes an issue, then get a poly torque arm bushing (or aftermarket torque arm) and LCAs.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: new orleans,La
Car: pontiac firebird
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
ok guys i forgot to say i have nitto drag radials ive tried 3 different tires nittos made very slight difference compared to mastercraft and goodrich
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,761
Likes: 4
From: The "D"
Car: A Portly 85 Z28
Engine: 4.530 X 4.250 BBC
Transmission: under rated for this application
Axle/Gears: also under rated
Try out the new mickey thompson drag radials if you buy new hoops, other than that the only other things that worked for me was 90/10 struts 30/70 rear shocks and removing the front sway bar, of course the car won`t handle anymore, but straight line is the only time I could ever open this thing up anyway
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: new orleans,La
Car: pontiac firebird
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
guys i wish i could show you what im talking about just this morning i was rolling about 40 mph and i nailed it to pass a truck well the tranny kicked down and the whole azz end started sliding..... so new lca and lower bracets should help
i hope its not tires it shouldnt be anyway..i have some 18 dunlops that im waiting to get a set of rims(cant decide) and i want to fix this before i put them on. so sfc would also help mytraction? has anyone ever had traction problems this bad,a friend of mine has a 97 t/a and that thing doesnt spin for nothing it has to be wet for him to break the tires loose and his car is fast...im just lost.lol
i hope its not tires it shouldnt be anyway..i have some 18 dunlops that im waiting to get a set of rims(cant decide) and i want to fix this before i put them on. so sfc would also help mytraction? has anyone ever had traction problems this bad,a friend of mine has a 97 t/a and that thing doesnt spin for nothing it has to be wet for him to break the tires loose and his car is fast...im just lost.lol
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 8,028
Likes: 93
From: DC Metro Area
Car: 87TA 87Form 71Mach1 93FleetWB 04Cum
First, some lower profile tires is not the solution… there’s a reason why you never see a real drag car wearing 17’s, 18’s, 20’s… Assuming a similar compound, tread and contact patch the taller profile/smaller wheel will usually win.
Second, many pretty well built up cars will break the tires loose at higher speeds, especially on the street. What the car does on the street is fairly random, since it’s hard to predict what gravel, oil, road imperfections… you’ll hit at any particular spot.
Typically, if you get a sorta jump or hop and then tire spin you can pretty much expect that something is broken or worn out. If it’s dead smooth, the tires just start spinning, well, there could be some suspension geometry at play, but most likely it’s just an issue of the available traction between the road surface and the tires that you’ve got on the car.
Not really knowing how fast/how much power your car makes, the tires on it, what it’s doing when it’s breaking loose… people are really just throwing out random guesses.
Second, many pretty well built up cars will break the tires loose at higher speeds, especially on the street. What the car does on the street is fairly random, since it’s hard to predict what gravel, oil, road imperfections… you’ll hit at any particular spot.
Typically, if you get a sorta jump or hop and then tire spin you can pretty much expect that something is broken or worn out. If it’s dead smooth, the tires just start spinning, well, there could be some suspension geometry at play, but most likely it’s just an issue of the available traction between the road surface and the tires that you’ve got on the car.
Not really knowing how fast/how much power your car makes, the tires on it, what it’s doing when it’s breaking loose… people are really just throwing out random guesses.
Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 436
Likes: 0
Car: 1987 TA
Engine: 350 stock/twecked
Transmission: 700r4
I use mecury dirt track tires on the 68 camaro ss (435 hp -m-22 and 4:10 and launch at 4200rpms they hold great basicly a cut down dot soft tread tire
later and
GB
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: new orleans,La
Car: pontiac firebird
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
well the cars engine should produce pretty good power probably around 350 (i have a miniram and afr's) the stock wheels currently 16s and the nittos. never any hop, but it will slide to the side. no matter what surface but asfault is the worst the tires dont even make noise,the car is sliding and the motor revving. heres everything tpis miniram,zz9 cam,and afr/tpis heads. march underdrive pulleys,holley 52mm tb tci streetfighter tranny with 2200 tci converter. slp 13/4headers and 2otlcatback .suspension is all stock so i know that is my major problem but being that this is a toy, and my wife doesnt understand me spending anymore money on the car i need the best bang for my buck(money for my rims has already been set aside) so the consensus here is that lca's and lowering brackets whould probably help more than any other item. ive been looking at bmrs only b/c they can come in blue. would like to use sphon but hes only got red and black.... oh and thanks for all the replys any other input or suggestion are greatly appreciated
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 8,028
Likes: 93
From: DC Metro Area
Car: 87TA 87Form 71Mach1 93FleetWB 04Cum
judging from the description (The jumping out sideways part) I'd put PHR as next, it's actually not that uncommon for these cars to do that with stock suspensions and a stiffer PHR usually takes care of it
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: new orleans,La
Car: pontiac firebird
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
well of course nothing is visably broken worn,i can garantee all of it is worn car is a 89. Cayse, ok so im in for lca's and lower brackets, and panhard rod...i probably order in the next week or so and i will post after installation.
60' times at a dragway are such a better way to determine what you'd need.
everything your talking about is leaning towards your tires. on the street it's not saying much but always change the tire first... obviously all the other little parts add up and help but if your tire isn't working then there is no point. it's the most important and usually cheapest upgrade with the biggest gains.
to kick a rear out driving straight at 40-50 mph you would have to have a pretty crazy setup or decent setup with some bad tires. from what your listing as your motor i'd guess your tires first. remember if you have 350 horse to the wheels you could run your 18's with a nitto or bfg drag radial and still hook very well but you'll loose alot of power. anything can be made to work well, just need the right combination. definately should find out what your 60' times are before you dive into physical suspension pieces.
everything your talking about is leaning towards your tires. on the street it's not saying much but always change the tire first... obviously all the other little parts add up and help but if your tire isn't working then there is no point. it's the most important and usually cheapest upgrade with the biggest gains.
to kick a rear out driving straight at 40-50 mph you would have to have a pretty crazy setup or decent setup with some bad tires. from what your listing as your motor i'd guess your tires first. remember if you have 350 horse to the wheels you could run your 18's with a nitto or bfg drag radial and still hook very well but you'll loose alot of power. anything can be made to work well, just need the right combination. definately should find out what your 60' times are before you dive into physical suspension pieces.
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 8,028
Likes: 93
From: DC Metro Area
Car: 87TA 87Form 71Mach1 93FleetWB 04Cum
Actually, you can get a pretty good kick out with even a wimpy engine and some aggressive manual shifting, and you won’t see it at all in the 60’ times (it either happens after the first 60’ or so late in it that it doesn’t show up, but you will see the difference in the ¼ mile. Again, a stiffer phr fixes that just about instantly.
the question is in reguards to traction from torque, not speed traps. if you can fix your issues that is easiest to guage at your 60' or stop light take offs then you'll be fine. worying about the rest is secondary until the later is fixed. if you have great grip from the start you won't have to worry about it kicking sidways at higher mph.
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