Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

My son's first car

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Old Jun 11, 2005 | 08:09 PM
  #1  
Wadebryant's Avatar
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From: KY
Car: 87IROC, 740iBMW, 328iBMW, 86GMC
Engine: 5.7, 4.4LV8, 2.8, 6.0
Transmission: Manuals & Auto's
Axle/Gears: 3.27, 3.42
My son's first car

My son and I have been working on restoring a 87 5.7 IROC T-top car for about a year now. It's his first car, and I'm trying to start him off right, with a real nice driving, and a solid performace car that he will appreciate. The car drives well but, it creaks, and flexes. We would like some advise and brand name part selection to help us select the subframe connectors (within reason $$) to stiffen up the car. Should we go bolt in's and weld or straight to the weld in types? Thanks for your comments!
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Old Jun 11, 2005 | 09:49 PM
  #2  
nape's Avatar
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From: SW Chicago 'burbs
Car: American Iron Firebird
Engine: The little 305 that could.
Transmission: Richmond T-10
Axle/Gears: Floater 9" - 3.64 gears
I've had two pairs of Alston SFCs that TDS [Top Down Solutions, a sponsor] sells and they're nice because you can bolt them in until you can get them to a shop to have them welded in. Another plus is they provide a nice jacking point on the side of the car.

Definately weld the connectors in before too long, otherwise the metal around the bolt holes will elongate and you'll be back to your creaky, squeaky car.
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Old Jun 12, 2005 | 10:32 AM
  #3  
91Z28-350's Avatar
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I'd get perimeter SFCs instead of the Alstons. Look at Spohn's. Get an STB also.

I like weld-ins. You can get bolt-in if you like, just weld it in after you bolt it up. I think it's sturdier that way.

Before you weld it, make sure the SFCs are installed properly. I took it to a place to install mine, and they didn't get the passenger's side up all the way, so it hangs down a good amount and rattles against my cats since they now have to hang down too.
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Old Jun 13, 2005 | 08:41 AM
  #4  
Wadebryant's Avatar
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From: KY
Car: 87IROC, 740iBMW, 328iBMW, 86GMC
Engine: 5.7, 4.4LV8, 2.8, 6.0
Transmission: Manuals & Auto's
Axle/Gears: 3.27, 3.42
Originally posted by 91Z28-350
[B]Get an STB also.
91Z28-350 sorry to have to ask but, what does the abbreviation mean?

Thanks for the help guys!
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Old Jun 13, 2005 | 09:11 AM
  #5  
91formulaSS's Avatar
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From: Lowell, MA
Car: 91 Formula, 95 GT
Engine: 5.7, 5.0
Transmission: T5, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42:1, ???
Strut Tower Brace.
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 06:30 AM
  #6  
Wadebryant's Avatar
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From: KY
Car: 87IROC, 740iBMW, 328iBMW, 86GMC
Engine: 5.7, 4.4LV8, 2.8, 6.0
Transmission: Manuals & Auto's
Axle/Gears: 3.27, 3.42
Of course.

Thanks again.
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 07:03 AM
  #7  
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From: Lancashire County, England, UK
Car: VIN=85 T/A, CAR=82/3 T/A gfx, go figure. She's a T/A anyway!
Engine: 5.0, Holley 600 cfm 4-barrel
Transmission: THM350 ??
You may want to get a steering brace too aka Wonderbar (TDS again).

Mark.
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 08:17 PM
  #8  
Wadebryant's Avatar
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From: KY
Car: 87IROC, 740iBMW, 328iBMW, 86GMC
Engine: 5.7, 4.4LV8, 2.8, 6.0
Transmission: Manuals & Auto's
Axle/Gears: 3.27, 3.42
Originally posted by Difflock
You may want to get a steering brace too aka Wonderbar (TDS again).

Mark.
Is an aftermarket Wonderbar better than the original Z28 IROC steering brace that's already in the car?

Thanks!
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 08:36 PM
  #9  
ScottyRS's Avatar
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From: Miami
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: L03
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Stock
Originally posted by Wadebryant
Is an aftermarket Wonderbar better than the original Z28 IROC steering brace that's already in the car?

Thanks!
They wouldn't call it a "Wonder Bar" if it wasn't.
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 09:58 PM
  #10  
blyth18md's Avatar
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Posts: 1,408
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From: Western Maryland
Car: 82z28
Engine: 406
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.23
I think the stock wonder bar is fine, as long as the area is braced. Save the 50 bucks and put it towards something else first.
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