sub frame connectors
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Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: kansas city
Car: trans am 86
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700
sub frame connectors
im working on my 86 ta im gonna buy some frame connectors i was wondering if copetition engineering made good ones and i guess you gotta buy a rear frame rail kit any suggestions and pictures would be great
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From: Beautiful BC
Car: '88 IROC-Z / '91 Z28 / '91 GTA
Engine: LT4 Hot Cam 305 / L98 355 / MR 383
Transmission: 5-spd / 700R4 / 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3:45 / 3:23 / 3:23
I think what your trying to ask is; who makes good (or the best) sub-frame connectors?
I know the answer is subjective, but this is a question that I too want to ask.
Spohn, Comp Engineering, Summit, Hotchkis, etc. I was looking through a Year One catalog and I liked the looks of a Kenny Brown Racing set of SFC's. They looked beefy with an X brace.
I know the answer is subjective, but this is a question that I too want to ask.
Spohn, Comp Engineering, Summit, Hotchkis, etc. I was looking through a Year One catalog and I liked the looks of a Kenny Brown Racing set of SFC's. They looked beefy with an X brace.
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iTrader: (25)
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From: Beautiful BC
Car: '88 IROC-Z / '91 Z28 / '91 GTA
Engine: LT4 Hot Cam 305 / L98 355 / MR 383
Transmission: 5-spd / 700R4 / 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3:45 / 3:23 / 3:23
JamesC, do they have a cross brace??
I'm told theres basically two types of SFC's; unibody connectors or frame connectors. Of both the two types, some have an X brace connecting the two SFC's together, some do not.
Have I been given good advice, or BS?
I'm told theres basically two types of SFC's; unibody connectors or frame connectors. Of both the two types, some have an X brace connecting the two SFC's together, some do not.
Have I been given good advice, or BS?
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
I've never seen/heard of that distinction. The Global West version isn't cross braced.
http://www.GlobalWestSuspension.com/...?CategoryID=23
Anything that keeps the unibody from twisting or flexing is a good thing. The common consensus is that the weld-in types are the best (the bolt-ins apparently have a tendancy to eventually oval the bolt holes and allow some flexing). In my opinion, and there will be members who will no doubt disagree, the cross brace is overkill for normally driven cars.
JamesC
http://www.GlobalWestSuspension.com/...?CategoryID=23
Anything that keeps the unibody from twisting or flexing is a good thing. The common consensus is that the weld-in types are the best (the bolt-ins apparently have a tendancy to eventually oval the bolt holes and allow some flexing). In my opinion, and there will be members who will no doubt disagree, the cross brace is overkill for normally driven cars.
JamesC
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: 87 Iroc Z
Engine: 383ci.
Transmission: WC-T5
I've got the Comp Eng. weld -ins. There is no cross brace. If the set is designed to go in the right place, you shouldn't need a crossbrace.
They definately do the job. And you can't even see them under the car, unless you look for the little yellow plastic discs.
But the comp ones were pretty expensive at the time. Maybe there is something comparable, but cheaper out there.
They definately do the job. And you can't even see them under the car, unless you look for the little yellow plastic discs.
But the comp ones were pretty expensive at the time. Maybe there is something comparable, but cheaper out there.
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From: Vancouver Island, BC, Canada
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: 5 speed
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From: Pensacola, FL
Car: 1999 Saturn SL2
Engine: 4 cylinder
Transmission: 4-speed automatic
The UMI SFCs look like they would do the job adequately, but from the picture posted in the other thread, they look like they weigh a ton. I also don't like the fact that the driver side piece looks like it was originally three pieces of tubing that was welded into one. I highly doubt it would break on even the hardest driven auto-x cars, but my question why produce the SFCs like that when other manufacturers (e.g. Spohn) have sucessfully installed one piece of long tubing with no modification necessary? K.I.S.S. ideology seems to apply here.
I have the Spohn SFCs and I can say they were well worth the money. They do what they were designed to do, and they aren't more complex than the need to be, which helps keep the weight down and ground clearance loss minimized. They also make use of round tubing (which is supposedly stronger than square tubing) and are perimeter style SFCs, which means they help prevent flexing from side to side and front to back (an important characteristic that certain SFCs lack, such as the Alston-style SFCs).
In the end, it's up to you what you want because it's your money, but I would encourage anyone to research products they are interested in buying. I did a lot of research before purchasing my SFCs, and I ended up choosing Spohn's product because it was the best product for the money. Hope this helps.
I have the Spohn SFCs and I can say they were well worth the money. They do what they were designed to do, and they aren't more complex than the need to be, which helps keep the weight down and ground clearance loss minimized. They also make use of round tubing (which is supposedly stronger than square tubing) and are perimeter style SFCs, which means they help prevent flexing from side to side and front to back (an important characteristic that certain SFCs lack, such as the Alston-style SFCs).
In the end, it's up to you what you want because it's your money, but I would encourage anyone to research products they are interested in buying. I did a lot of research before purchasing my SFCs, and I ended up choosing Spohn's product because it was the best product for the money. Hope this helps.
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From: Vancouver Island, BC, Canada
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: 5 speed
reason
why the umis come in three pieces is: so that if you are planning aftermarket exaust it makes it way easier for you to install. If you have stock exhaust and are planning to keep it stock install all three pieces. IF you are planning after market exhaust but have stock just install the two pieces and wait to install the third after you have put the aftermarket exhaust in. This to me is a bonus not a downfall. Also the UMI sfcs are the easiest to install. YOu dont have to be a pro just attach them to the control are bracket (the sfc bracket that is) with the control arm bolt. Wola they will be perfectly in line with your subframe (in exactly the right place). Now just weld. Done.....perfectly and acuratly without alot of problems and confusion.
I am buying umis cause i do not want to guess where i should weld the SFC to the subframe...I want them to be in the prime location.
UMI sfc s install in 20 min per side.....
I am buying umis cause i do not want to guess where i should weld the SFC to the subframe...I want them to be in the prime location.
UMI sfc s install in 20 min per side.....
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: 87 Iroc Z
Engine: 383ci.
Transmission: WC-T5
UMM, with half a brain and 20 mins total, you can install the Comp Set, they're designed to only fit in one place and weld/bolt in specific places. They sit up out of the way of everything and are as close to outside of the car as possible.
I though they were expesnive at the time, but after seeing some of the crap that Spohn pukes out. It's evident, Comp definately put the engineering time into them. you get what you pay for.
I though they were expesnive at the time, but after seeing some of the crap that Spohn pukes out. It's evident, Comp definately put the engineering time into them. you get what you pay for.
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